leaking intake valve

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SHOslamwagon

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ok, so i finally figured out how things work properly and ran a proper compression test on my engine, i had the piston cycle through 4 times to get my readings, which one of my dads books said was the way to do it, i presume it true.

Anyway i got roughly 200 on 4 cylinders, 180 on one other and 110 on the final one. so i did a 'leakdown' on the 110 and have determined the intake valves are leaking, the engine did burn oil when it was in the car, would this be why? or could i still have other problems. anyway how much would it cost to fix this? I would need to pull the heads off and send them to machine shop rite? or could it carboned up?

anyway, my train of thought to fixing it goes as follows: heads and cams out, send heads to machine shop, get new cam bearings, get new head gaskets put it all back together end up up spending more than a 'new' engine is going to cost me :nut: ($500) this engine has like 250,000 KM on it. the one im looking at has like 60,000 miles on it.
 

Phoenix

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ok, so i finally figured out how things work properly and ran a proper compression test on my engine, i had the piston cycle through 4 times to get my readings, which one of my dads books said was the way to do it, i presume it true.

Anyway i got roughly 200 on 4 cylinders, 180 on one other and 110 on the final one. so i did a 'leakdown' on the 110 and have determined the intake valves are leaking, the engine did burn oil when it was in the car, would this be why? or could i still have other problems. anyway how much would it cost to fix this? I would need to pull the heads off and send them to machine shop rite? or could it carboned up?

anyway, my train of thought to fixing it goes as follows: heads and cams out, send heads to machine shop, get new cam bearings, get new head gaskets put it all back together end up up spending more than a 'new' engine is going to cost me :nut: ($500) this engine has like 250,000 KM on it. the one im looking at has like 60,000 miles on it.


1-Are you doing the job yourself? (saving $)
2-Did you saw the other "new" engine running (or tested) Maybe it's in worst cond then yours is really.
3-Changing the whole engine may require more tools (engine hoist) , and maybe even more time then just lifting the heads.
4-Cam bearings doesnt exists on a v6 sho. It will come down to : gaskets, and look up that valve leak.
 

PAracer

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Valve guides and seals are likely.

Have you tried putting a little oil in a cylinder durind a comp test to see if ring seal is an issue? With this, you should look for a large difference in wet vs. dry test results.
 

SHOslamwagon

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hmmmm, ok, well the engine is already out of my SHO and is destined for my wagon. it currently sits as an assembly on the subframe, i dropped it out the bottom.

so far from what you guys say it's not sounding like as much as my dad said ($300 CND per head) although valve guides sound like something that mite be a challenge to get a hold of. also, i DO NOT need to send it to a machine shop? my dad said they would need to re-grind everything to re seal it. when you say valve seals i think of little rubber donut things, as for guides i did stumble across what those are somewhere today.

also as for oil in the cylinder, i decided this was not necessary because when i did the leakdown the air was obviously coming out the intake (i have the manifold and fuel injectors off aswell) or are you suggesting the rings could be blown on all cylinders?
 

RAYJAY

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just did my heads on my 1993 3.2

cost was :( all cost in us funds )
$45 a head to mill head x2
$10 a head to clean them x2
$50 each head gaskets x2
$35 head bolts
$60 ext valve seals
$25 intake valve seals
$16 cam shaft seals
$16 water outlet gaskets


I cleaned all the carbon off the valves and heads and lapped the valves

Jeff
 

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