Knotchy Shifting bad. Help!
- Thread starter illshoya
- Start date
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DHMag
Free At Last
have you even checked to see if it has fluid in it ? if so, there are 2 ways to drain without drilling a plug hole. 1) siphon it thru the fill hole. use a 1/4" tube to reach all the way to the bottom of the trans to get as much fluid as possible. 2) remove the shift interlock bolt and drain that way. BUT, THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT WHILE THE SHIFT INTERLOCK BOLT IS REMOVED, DO NOT MOVE THE SHIFTER AT ALL ! if you do, then go ahead and start preparing to remove the transmission because youve just misaligned everything in the case.
i used a hand pump siphon, bought from Wal-Mart for 3 or 6 dollas, i dont recall the exact price. worked fine for me. i was able to remove 2 quarts and refill with 2 quarts.
hope this helps
i used a hand pump siphon, bought from Wal-Mart for 3 or 6 dollas, i dont recall the exact price. worked fine for me. i was able to remove 2 quarts and refill with 2 quarts.
hope this helps
sdpatt
Sr. SHO Engr.
Why not try to add the correct Type F or MERCON into the case to start with? Just use a funnel and tube or a pump to fill through the square holed fill plug on the forward face of the casing. Fill until it drips out.
If there is low fluid in the transaxle, the damage may already be done.
As far as draining the fluid that is in there, just place the shifter in neutral and remove the 13mm shifter interlock bolt on the driver side of the forward transaxle case. It is the only 13mm bolt in the transaxle casing. This hole will drain all the fluid from all but the small cavity below the differential. Just don't move the shifter until the bolt is Teflon taped and reinstalled with 15 lb-ft of torque. This is much less risky for the transaxle than drilling into the casing to install a drain plug. Any untrapped debris from that operation could damage the bearings or gearsets.
If there is low fluid in the transaxle, the damage may already be done.
As far as draining the fluid that is in there, just place the shifter in neutral and remove the 13mm shifter interlock bolt on the driver side of the forward transaxle case. It is the only 13mm bolt in the transaxle casing. This hole will drain all the fluid from all but the small cavity below the differential. Just don't move the shifter until the bolt is Teflon taped and reinstalled with 15 lb-ft of torque. This is much less risky for the transaxle than drilling into the casing to install a drain plug. Any untrapped debris from that operation could damage the bearings or gearsets.
SHODWN
Mother Threasa
The shift rod could also have ROT, when they rot out they twist and turn in a funny position causing this. Also the Ball socket can also be worn with rot to break off cause the ****** shifting. Mine did this for about a month before it finally snapped.
Mine broke in side the box, and I have fixed 2 others throught the winter that the rod rotted in the middle.
Just another option to look at
Mine broke in side the box, and I have fixed 2 others throught the winter that the rod rotted in the middle.
Just another option to look at
shojuan
New Member
The brass syncro blocking rings in the '89 prefer Redline MTL vs. Redline D4 if you plan on going that route. I haven't tried Syncromesh but everybody who has seems to love it. My 89 has a 50/50 mix of Redline MTL and Redline MT90 and I find it perfect for our California climate.
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