Just to make sure.

[ozzy smith]

So I changed out my knock sensor it was trowing a code for it also I changed out the cam chain tensioner. It doesn't hit the valve cover that much just a bit . When I removed the old one their was like rubber pieces . But my question is when the knock sensor code comes up I know I've read ignore if it's not pinging. How long would it take the code to go away? Car runs good better then it ever has. It's just the engine light comes up maybe at 70 and comes up for 3 min then goes away. So do I ignore it or faulty knock sensor ?

 

[rubydist]

the cel will not come on for the knock sensor, so something else is going on there.

 

[ozzy smith]

So what can it be? I'm clueless it's a big bother. Can it be that it's grounded bad . Can it be the chain tensioner it still has a lil knock . I can hear it it's a lil knock but not that bad the chain tensioner I changed got it from sho source the knock sensor as we'll . Can it be a bad ground?

 

[rubydist]

what other codes do you have?

 

[ozzy smith]

Knock sensor code . That's all .

 

[rubydist]

I would be thinking about replacing the pcm at this point.

 

[ozzy smith]

What does that control
? Sorry I'm not very we'll known wit car this is actually the first car that I actually work on myself

 

[ozzy smith]

Computer ?

 

[SHOdded]

Correct, Engine Control Unit/Module or Powertrain Control Module is the computer brain of the SHO. You have to get one with a code that matches your SHO (MTX, ATX, California or non).

 

[ozzy smith]

Is their anyway I can test the computer? It's a mtx . And would a ba computer just give me a knock sensor code?

 

[SHOdded]

There is/was a tester unit/breakout box you could buy or get on loan, in the past. See at bottom of this page
http://web.archive.org/web/20151208173427/http://www.rcmautomotive.com/id26.html

To be clear, the site above is defunct. So the page is for reference only.

 

[ozzy smith]

Is that page legit?

 

[LOUDSHO92]

I would first clear the codes. The codes do not clear themselves.

 

[ozzy smith]

Disconnecting battery ? Tried it already

 

[SHOdded]

Is that page legit?

Yes.

 

[rubydist]

I have found that disconnecting the battery is not the most certain way to clear codes.

If you jumper the connectors to make the cel flash the codes, and if you disconnect that jumper while the codes are still flashing, that is the most certain way to clear them.

 

[ozzy smith]

So update drove my car yesterday. no more engine light! nut now my battery light flickers.battery is good alternator is good.2months old. also now it feels like its hesitating/missfire and loss of power if im not mistaken i here a missfire coming from the engine my guess intake misfire. i did thecode thing with the jumper gave me 111 (system is running fine) please help

 

[rubydist]

just because the alternator is only 2 months old does not mean it is good. lots of them fail very soon. I would take it in and have it tested, my guess is that it is bad.

 

[ozzy smith]

It actually tested out good so did the battery and starter. I also put the jump start cable connected to another car and no difference.sounds like it's misfire with just a blinky battery runs like shit tho .

 

[rubydist]

hmm, my experience with these cars is that by the time the alternator light flashes on the battery is dangerously low (or high) because of a bad voltage regulator in the alternator. seen lots of those and never any other reason for the alternator light being on...

and when the battery is that low, the engine doesn't run for crap because the ignition is not getting the voltage it needs to fire consistently.