just finished conversion, code 133,no start

[texas hot rodder]

Hello to everyone, and thank you to a lot of you. My name is Craig this is my first post, I just converted a 93 ATX that I got three months ago in perfect shape minus the wrecked area around the air box. OH YEAh the guy I got it from let some guy take the wiring from the car (bumper to bumper), stereo/speakers/amps and the gastank and all that stuff for $75. I got the rest for $700. A month later drove 2000 miles round trip for a 92 MTX in good shape, $500. Put in everything from the MTX. Everything is FINALLY done! beer F$#@kn B*#@h won't start.

I have gas and spark. she cranks all day, and I have not put any pipe on from the y-pipe to the gastank yet. I got a code of 133 when I tried to run the codes. Since it will not start, just crank I cannot run any other tests? Right? Any info would be greatly appreciated,

The 3.2 is now getting some cams from my 89, seeing as it is not in need of them and I am looking to drop it in in January. Sorry to let this get so long, Thank you for your help, Craig

 

[Mr Anonymous]

You sure you're reading the code correctly? There is no 133 code. Perhaps you counted the initial high-speed quick flashes as the '1', and really got a 111 code (meaning no codes).

As to your no-start, it could be a number of things, but where you said you're getting fuel and spark my first inclination would be to check for air - i.e. the IAC/IAB valve, and maybe verify all the DIS-related grounds are good.

 

[sdpatt]

Welcome to the Forum. Where in Texas are you?

The 133 code is not a valid code. Are you familiar with the sequence of fast codes, hard faults, separator code then the memory codes? If not, here is a good web site with the testing procedures and the code description links near the top.

 

[texas hot rodder]

Just to narrow the problem down.
There is spark, not sure if it is timing right though, There is gas injecting,I almost think it is flooded. Spark plug wires are now in the right order, thank you Scott. Could bad O2 sensors due this? What about a vac. leak, could it do this? How important is that purge tank? I am running the 3.0 injectors with this setup. Stock maf, everything. Everything is connected. all the wires and everything. Considering, I have had this 93 ATX body completey ***** of everything except for the rear suspension and the sunroof, no carpet,wiring, or front suspension, I have come a long long ways, and it is done, Rod shifter and all, but when I turn the key I just here ERERERERERERERERERERERERRE ERERERERRERERERER Please help. What tells the computer when to fire, how can I screw with it? Craig

 

[texas hot rodder]

Scott I am in North Fort Worth by Watagua. Thank you for your post earlier today to someone about the firing order mistake in the Chiltons Manual That I Followed, But that did not solve this problem. All I know about the codes, is I jumped the wire(single) to the upper right one in the 5 prong setup, turned on the ignition to run, and let it do its thing, I thouhgt the code was really 33, but I took the motor, computer and all out of a Gen2. ? If you want you could give me a call, you would probably like my garage, I own a Buick Grand National, I just finished it too, 3.8 Bored over 30, turbo is at an outstanding 22 #'s. She is a fun hot rod, but back to the problem at hand, I have no idea what to do, this is my last resort, and I hatre asking for help. Any ideas,

 

[texas hot rodder]

As to your no-start, it could be a number of things, but where you said you're getting fuel and spark my first inclination would be to check for air - i.e. the IAC/IAB valve, and maybe verify all the DIS-related grounds are good.

What is the IAC/IAB and where is it? Thanx

 

[Mr Anonymous]

texas hot rodder:
What is the IAC/IAB and where is it? Thanx

It is the Idle Air Control valve (also often called the Intake Air Bypass valve). It is mounted on the inside of the intake opposite the throttle body, and it is how the PCM provides air to the engine when the throttle plate is closed.

While one normally wouldn't touch the accelerator when cranking an engine, if you floor the gas while starting it will stop the injectors from firing to help start a flooded engine.

I've never seen bad O2 sensors prevent an engine from starting, so I doubt that would be your problem. A vacuum leak would definitely cause rough running, but it would have to be pretty bad to keep it from starting or even sputtering. What purge tank are you referring to? The vapor recovery canister? If the vacuum hose from the CANP valve to the top of the TB is missing that would definitely result in a vacuum leak, but I still think you would get sputtering and short runs even if that was the case.

BTW - Does your tach move when you're cranking the engine?

 

[texas hot rodder]

Thanx, I have 3 manifolds, so I am going to try to take the IAC off another one, and see how that works. I am pretty sure the tach moves, I know I have seen it jump when I tried to start it the first couple of times. The canister down in the fender has a bad connection at the hose, but did not figure that would cause this no start. Thanx Craig

 

[Mike Kopstain]

Just for *****, try holding the gas pedal to the floor while cranking it. It's a long shot, but what the hey. You can't win the lotto if you don't play.

 

[blewbyu]

Thanx, tried that already, flooring it to stop the injectors from flooding out, did nothing. I am going to try to clean the air bypass valve tonight, and see if I can make some power. Thanx Craig