Just Ejected Diff Pin

[SHOtime-95]

So I was driving home from work earlier in my 95 SHO, and right as I'm about to make the last turn to my house BOOM!! I hear an explosion right underneath me, my front wheels start locking up and oil is all over the ground, trailing behind me. It Scared the sh*t out of me, I thought I hit a huge rock or something. But as it turns out, I am 97% sure I ejected a pin. Still shifts into all gears and moves, but keeps binding up when I move. There is gear oil and pieces of aluminum all over the ground. It's actually kinda funny how catastrophic it is. . So much oil. I just drove it home in reverse Very slowly without binding it up, and parked it. I haven't even put it on ramps and looked yet.

Soo in conclusion, I need a transmission! I'm going to pull mine out soon and see the damage that's been done. I would like to get a Wavetrac transmission, with welded Diff Pin if I can, so I don't have to deal with this again. I'll also replace my clutch, and RH (back side) exhaust manifold gasket because it leaks slightly while I'm at it. So if anyone has a Manual transmission they want to sell please let me know! Im going to have to start driving my Syclone right now while I'll fix my SHO.

I'll be uploading pictures shortly, and jacking the car up to get a better look.

 

[mrecoolgar]

What is your location?

 

[SHOtime-95]

What is your location?

Sonora CA. About 2 hours from Sacremento, 3 hours E from SF, and 5 hrs N from LA

 

[SHOtime-95]

Looks like the SHO has been canceled .. Lol get it ?

 

[LOUDSHO92]

If you have a Wavetrac then you don't need a welded diff pin. Contact SHONut about Wavetrac.

 

[SHOtime-95]

If you have a Wavetrac then you don't need a welded diff pin. Contact SHONut about Wavetrac.

Thanks, I'll definitely do that

 

[luigisho]

See if the local(ish) salvage yards have one with decent mileage available. They also usually pay to link into a larger used parts service to locate things for customers. You can locate used parts on this board and ebay and there are also used auto parts search bots on the internet. Closer is usually better for shipping but, if you go wavetrac, then you may just need to have it shipped elsewhere if someone else will do the install.

 

[SHOtime-95]

See if the local(ish) salvage yards have one with decent mileage available. They also usually pay to link into a larger used parts service to locate things for customers. You can locate used parts on this board and ebay and there are also used auto parts search bots on the internet. Closer is usually better for shipping but, if you go wavetrac, then you may just need to have it shipped elsewhere if someone else will do the install.

Thanks for the advice. I just got a look underneath my car, and yep. There are two gaping holes in the case, and I can see the differential. So the transmission didn't go, but the diff did. Soo I'm going to at least need new cases. I'm definitely going to get the Wavetrac kit from Shonut, which for $230 is definitely worth it. I'll be doing all the work myself.
Pics coming soon

 

[luigisho]

Wait. Do you have the Wavetrac unit already? A new unit if available is around $1400-1500

 

[SHOtime-95]

Wait. Do you have the Wavetrac unit already? A new unit if available is around $1400-1500

I thought it was a transmission kit, but I guess I'm going stock then..

 

[luigisho]

That is probably an installation kit for the unit. Weld the diff pin and watch how hard you beat on it. They are not that strong. You can drill down on various posts about shimming and all that to help beef it up but only so much you can do really...

 

[SHOtime-95]

That is probably an installation kit for the unit. Weld the diff pin and watch how hard you beat on it. They are not that strong. You can drill down on various posts about shimming and all that to help beef it up but only so much you can do really...

I'll go head and post a WTB thread on here for a Transmission and maybe a Wavetrac diff. Probably won't end up with a Wavetrac but worth a try. So if I get my SHO in the 300+ HP range, what am I supposed to do about the transmission besides a Wavetrac diff, so that it won't break? I've heard a lot about 3rd gear breaking off the shaft with more power. How can I prevent that?

 

[luigisho]

Go through the posts for higher hp builds like Zach and see what they did. You aren't getting to 300hp without a good deal of cash unless you are a really good shade tree guy and can get good tuning on the cheap.
Save your money and buy a car that already has 300hp. Been in your shoes with these cars since the mid to late 90's and wanted to build them up... until after thousands in "mods" and regular maintenance I finally figured out that shoveling that cash into a hole was a waste. You need a better platform to really get alot faster and still have a car you like to drive every day. Learn to like it stock(ish) and set your sights on the next vehicle down the road that is closer to what you think you want.

 

[SHOtime-95]

Go through the posts for higher hp builds like Zach and see what they did. You aren't getting to 300hp without a good deal of cash unless you are a really good shade tree guy and can get good tuning on the cheap.
Save your money and buy a car that already has 300hp. Been in your shoes with these cars since the mid to late 90's and wanted to build them up... until after thousands in "mods" and regular maintenance I finally figured out that shoveling that cash into a hole was a waste. You need a better platform to really get alot faster and still have a car you like to drive every day. Learn to like it stock(ish) and set your sights on the next vehicle down the road that is closer to what you think you want.

Well there is 475 HP supercharged SHO on Craigslist for 4K and 75k miles that I'm really liking the idea of having parked next to my moonlight blue sho. Maybe if I can get that, I'll keep my current SHO stock ish. But it'll take me like 4 more weeks to save that much. Maybe I can stall him long enough lol. But anyway, my sho has been the most reliable thing I've had so far, and I've been driving it daily for nearly 2 years. I've been taking really good care of it too. So I would like to at least make it even more reliable. I do have my Syclone, which is significantly faster in terms of acceleration. And it is a far more potential vehicle to make fast, and much stronger drivetrain. Not very good gas mileage tho.

So it looks like I'm just going to get another good, used tranny, weld the Differntial Pins, and install it along will a fresh clutch. I've been looking at the clutch masters Stage 2 clutch on SHOsource. It's really expensive though. Are there any good clutches for like around $250?

 

[luigisho]

Sounds like you have other options. Others will have better info on clutches as I have stayed with stock valeo stuff for the past few years.

The SC for sale sounds good but unless you know the owner there is no way to know if it is turn key or if it needs some tinkering. Probably have to email back and forth to see what it has and what it needs and current tuning etc. I also assume the boosted SHO will not be mileage friendly. I don't know anyone that had a boosted car that stayed out of boost to get good mileage. Boosted owners will have to chime in to give better answers on what to expect. Might want to get on the SHO facebook group for that too. alot of the boosted owners I know of over the years wound up moving on to other cars that were more performance oriented out of the box

 

[sperold]

So it looks like I'm just going to get another good, used tranny, weld the Differntial Pins, and install it along will a fresh clutch. I've been looking at the clutch masters Stage 2 clutch on SHOsource. It's really expensive though. Are there any good clutches for like around $250?

There are plenty of good clutches for $250.00. Just be aware of the 9 14" kits that turn up lately. I bought a clutch kit for just over $100.00 on a close-out deal that is giving stellar service.

All clutch kits have their origin in the original Valeo clutch that was standard in the SHO. It is a nice compromise between long life and performance and I think they got it just right.
All variations of the original, center around altering the pivot point of the clutch fingers which affects life duration.

The Throw out Bearing eating through the pressure plate fingers is the single biggest reason for having to change a clutch. Not a worn out clutch disc. I have never worn a clutch disk out, but I have changed lots of clutches.
Towards that end, my last kit install included a Ceramic Throw Out Bearing (TOB) with the hope that it will last longer.

I am not saying the Clutch Master series, or any other series is a bad idea. But because of the labour costs and aggrivation associated with a clutch change, I am thinking how long will the system last when I pay the bill. If that is not a concern, there are plenty of radical clutch systems you can choose from.

 

[SHOdded]

The 9-3/4" clutches are what should be installed, right. or are the 9-1/4" clutches providing good service given the ceramic TOB?

 

[Devin]

I'll go head and post a WTB thread on here for a Transmission and maybe a Wavetrac diff. Probably won't end up with a Wavetrac but worth a try. So if I get my SHO in the 300+ HP range, what am I supposed to do about the transmission besides a Wavetrac diff, so that it won't break? I've heard a lot about 3rd gear breaking off the shaft with more power. How can I prevent that?

Hehe, 300hp SHO. So many dreams made, then unmade.

Before chasing horsepower on this platform, ask yourself: "Why this car?" It'll save you lots of money.

 

[sperold]

Only install a 9 3/4" clutch, from any manufacturer you desire. My clutch kit was called Rhinopack or something equally ridiculous, and it shook my confidence momentarily, but even that situation turned out well.

The ceramic throw out bearing is an aftermarket device sold by ShoNut Performance and possibly ShoSource and is not included in any clutch kit.

It is fairly expensive, but my failures were due to TOB issues so I am trying a different solution. I do not have enough miles on the system to suggest it extends the life of a clutch kit, but so far it has been a good experience.

 

[LOUDSHO92]

The 9-3/4" clutches are what should be installed, right. or are the 9-1/4" clutches providing good service given the ceramic TOB?

Never use a 9.25 for any reason. They sucked in 1989 and they still suck today. It is more then the TOB.