philw349
PhilW
I got the car back from dealership. We did the engine mount test right away. They put the car in neutral, put down the parking break, and had me open the hood. The shop foreman engaged the clutch into first and the engine moved back and forth about 6 inches front to back. This is a real easy test if you are thinking your mounts are bad. I was surprised it was the engine mounts. This may seem obvious but I replaced them with the Sho Shop ones and it still had probs. They took it apart and found that one of the bolts for the front mount was stripped out, which made it more or less useless. So they replaced the bolt and tried it again. So far I'm 3 for 3 when trying to spin the wheels.
Also some interesting stuff. They wanted $170 to replace the front brake pads, and $470 to replace the front struts (which includes alignment). I didn't because thats a bit steep. But it didn't cost much to fix the mount.
Phil
------------------
SS: Cold air snorkel, hi flow y-pipe,
Subframe connectors,
Motor mounts,
Sho Nut ceramic throwout bearing,
17 lb Flywheel,
Torque limiters,
SHO Nut Aluminum SFBs.
Going for the stock look
[This message has been edited by philw349 (edited 11-03-2001).]
Also some interesting stuff. They wanted $170 to replace the front brake pads, and $470 to replace the front struts (which includes alignment). I didn't because thats a bit steep. But it didn't cost much to fix the mount.
Phil
------------------
SS: Cold air snorkel, hi flow y-pipe,
Subframe connectors,
Motor mounts,
Sho Nut ceramic throwout bearing,
17 lb Flywheel,
Torque limiters,
SHO Nut Aluminum SFBs.
Going for the stock look
[This message has been edited by philw349 (edited 11-03-2001).]