It won't idle

[BillBro]

Hello everyone. This is my first post here and I hope you can help. Jumped in the big sho this morning, took off down the road, stopped for some petrol and when I got back in to leave it wouldn't start. It wouldn't even turn over. Nothing. Lights and everything work though. Being a 5er I got a guy to give me a push and it fired up but would only idle back down to a stop if I didn't ride the go pedal. Finally got her home and she died in the driveway and she won't start again I am a novice ford owner and a first time SHO owner and know not a lot about the thing except that it is a blast to drive. Any general direction that some one can point me in to help me figure this out? Any help is much appreciated.

 

[projectSHO89]

Failure to crank can be due to bad cables, bad starter (if no separate starter solenoid), starter solenoid, clutch interlock switch, ignition switch, etc.

As for the inability to idle, it could be due to a large vacuum leak, a failure of the Idle Air Bypass Valve, or something else that is dramatically upsetting the A/F ratio or is causing a weak spark.

Steve

 

[BillBro]

Idle air bypass valve is what I was looking at SHO89. Do thay tend to blow out all at once or do they give you a sign? It runs way too smooth I think to have any major vacuum leak. But hey, who knows.
Cleaned the cables and tried a different battery. I guess that it could be the starter solenoid which is seperate. The bypass valve wouldn't have any bearing on the no crank situation would it?
Thanks for your reply and for the advice.

 

[projectSHO89]

The bypass valve wouldn't have any bearing on the no crank situation would it?

Nope.

Ususally when they go bad, they get sticky and sluggish and slow to respond.

Since you have the separate solenoid mounted on the strut tower, you've got it easier to troubleshoot.

Use a meter or a test lamp. One cable terminal whould have multiple connections. It should be "always hot".

The small wire should be hot whever starting the engine. The clutch must be pushed in.

The third conection should be hot whenever the smaller one is. If so, the starter should be running.

Be sure to take necessary safety precautions as serious injury is possible while making these checks.

Steve

 

[BillBro]

Well, lets see. Would the solenoid be called the power distribution block? Sorry, I don't know a whole lot about newer cars. My last car was a 72 Cutlass S that I drove for the preceeding 10 years. If it is the power distribution block, mine is on the strut tower.
Is there a single component, or a pair of components that would cause my delima? It just seems really odd that two conditions would exist simultaneously without any preview that something was going wrong. One causing it to not start and one causing it to not stay running. Could one thing cause both?
Thinks I'll buy me a horse.
Thanks for your help so far.
You know, I took this car to a Ford dealer locally to have the valves adjusted and they told me that they didn't know how to do it. Where is my Cutlass???? headbang

 

[BillBro]

She is perty though.Anybody want to buy??

 

[BillBro]

doh I figured it out.It was the starter.