Is this entirely VSS related?

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Haggicide

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I apologize in advance if this is a simplistic question, but I don't know of any respectable shops in the area to analyze it for me.

My 95 ATX w/160k has a problem that popped up IMMEDIATELY after taking it to a Ford dealer to fix a problem before a long road trip. As the weather was warming up this past spring, I noticed my outside temperature was reading about 20-30 degrees low. The same day this happened, I could not get the cruise to work at all. Thinking these may be related, I assumed it might be a faulty processor somewhere. Since I was about to drive about 2800 miles round trip--and not ABOUT to do this sans cruise--I took it to the shop. They replaced a switch for the cruise, and a sensor for the thermometer, to the tune of about 300 bucks. Since I am in the AF, cash is not very easy to come by, and this took a bite out of my discretionary change. This seemed to cure the problem, so I let it go. A few days later I prepped the car for the trip, and checked fluids. Where the **** is the tranny dipstick? After a brief search, I discovered it laying across the engine (it was hard to see the black dipstick in the ambient light). Three questions:
1. Why was it removed in the first place?
2. Can I trust any work performed by someone so careless?
3. Did they sabotage my car to hope for repeat business?

While I was on the road, more problems arose. Cruise, tranny, engine management, and steering. These probs are intermittent, but they happen all at once, as if you flipped a switch on the dash to activate them in unison:

Steering: At low speeds (turning left from a stop sign, etc) I get low boost/highway-speed assist, and high boost/parking-lot-speed assist at 75 mph--most unnerving. I felt like I was driving my dad's '64 Country Squire again.

Cruise: If it does actually engage, it would sometimes abruptly disengage, like I stepped on the brake. It will not re-engage.

Tranny: Strange. For example, I could take my home offramp at 70, and take my foot off the gas. As the car slows (coasts--no braking used) for the stop sign at the end, the car abruptly downshifts through the gears, like I was using a Porsche Tiptronic or the like. This sometimes happens while approaching stoplights on surface streets as well; usually from around 40-45 is when it is most noticeable and obtrusive. Another condition is when I am accelerating, which brings me to...

Engine: One thing I LOVE about the SHO is the Saturn V force of stomping the pedal...that glorious noise...the wheelchirp when it shifts to 2 at 60 mph...the inability to control the widening grin...
This is what I don't love. Sometimes, that footstomp rewards me with half-arsed acceleration, shifting at 3000 rpm--juuuust before reaching the powerband. As I am a mediocre driveway mechanic with moderate ability and mild understanding of computer-controlled cars (I'm MUCH better with an old MG!), I will put it in carb terms. It is like a 4 bbl carb--my normal driving opens both primary and secondaries, while this condition is only using the primaries, THEN SHORT SHIFTING!! It is very frustrating.

Many times the problems will stop if I pull over and reboot the car (switch off for a few seconds, then restart). It usually will go away after about 5 minutes of driving as well (if I'm feeling patient). I have also noticed that these conditions arise much more frequently in humid/rainy conditions. I had considered that it may be tied to the auto-headlights being on, grasping at straws in a frantic search for answers.

I am sorry I went on so long, but I wanted anyone with the knowledge to have all the information before judging :) I have recently read about the VSS, and many of the symptoms seem to point to that, but do all of them? I got "Insufficient input from vehicle speed sensor (VSS)", as well as "MAF out of self-test range" and "DPFE sensor voltage higher or lower than expected" when I ran the codes.

Andy
 

93SHO'nOFF

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Andy,
Some dealers do a free multi-point inspection to cars that are in for service.It basically has the Tech check the fluid level's (oil,trans,p/s,brake...ect)and add fluid if low.This may be the reason why the dipstick was removed.
As for sabotaging vehicle's for repeat business,The thought is rediculous!That only happens on 20/20,Auto mechanics are not all con men.
Believe it or not, but some Dealer Technitions go on forums like this one to help out people with problems for fun and to make new freinds.
For your concern with your car it sounds like your on the right track they are all symptoms of a bad VSS or MAF connection at sensor.To be sure what to check you need to do a self test and see if it has any codes.
Here to help.
Later,Mike :thumb:
 

Haggicide

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Mike--
I didn't mean to imply that mechanics are generally seedy characters. Matter of fact, one of my best friends runs an MG shop and is the most reliable and trustworthy person I know. He can also make an SU carb SCREAM! Unfortunately, in my experiences with dealer mechanics (I have worked at a few dealers, and at a Motorcraft distributor doing deliveries to the dealers), I have run into just that sort of person on more than one occasion. It has made me somewhat paranoid. ...and for the record, I generally take anything said on 20/20 or Dateline or 60 mins et al, turn it 180 degrees, and believe THAT.

Thank you for your input and help. As for the MAF, are you saying there just may be a bad connection? I'm not sure I understand what you are saying. I ran the codes and got 335, 452, and 159. I just stated their definitions in the previous post, but not sure what the DPFE means.
Andy
 

93SHO'nOFF

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Sure,I will send you copy's of the TSB and pinpoint test's for the code's.I just have to gather them up.
Later :thumb:
Mike
 
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