Is this a collapsed hose?

[Eric VerValin]

Ok.. where it meets the hard line is pretty rusty, yay Indiana! So without trying to crack into that, I was going to bleed them. I ziptied the proportioning valve so it is up, closed or whatever you want to call it, so I assume it should be flowing through there. Now I have a one man bleeding deal, just a one way check valve sort of thing, and after a few pumps of the pedal nothing. So I grab my assistant, still nothing seems to be working. I left the screw open, with my little bleeder deal attached, and had her pump the pedal. The fluid is going somewhere, cause the level of fluid drops with the pedal, but when she lets off the pedal, its right back to where we started, magically floats back to the top. Am I just compressing the fluid in the lines? And do I have to leave it running? I seen a few posts where people have it running to do it, and seen a lot of posts about collapsed lines, but just curious what I should tear into next. Kinda stinks tho.. I was all ready to go driving.

 

[Eric VerValin]

Well I put it on the ground even , and from both sides still nothing. The front's seem to push fluid thru fine. Is it possible that valve could be bad? I havent seen anyone say they've replaced them before. I replaced the calipers in the rear, with new rotors and pads, sucks they don't want to cooperate. The pedal is nice and firm, so it must be getting stuck somewhere. I'm just afraid of breaking one of those hardlines, as I have no tools for that sort of thing. Also.. is brake fluid flammable? I bought some synthetic fluid, if that makes any difference. And as a temporary thing, would it be ok for a drive around the block without the rears working? I just want to make sure everything is working like it should. (Engine / Tranny / Clutch) Anxious to see it roll..

 

[Eric VerValin]

Well.. I couldnt get either rear to bleed, but I bled out the fronts just to make sure the lines were cool there, and I found / started a leak right at the manifold under the master cylnder. Sooooo being I know those can be a pita, and I have no flaring tools, I called around and Midas said they would replace all of them, for 200 bux. Sounds like thats what I'm going to do. let them bleed em out afterward.

 

[93rev2sev]

Probably a collapsed line. I loaned my FG the SHO a couple of years ago and I knew the rears were sticking a little...she called on her way to work very upset that she had to toss her dunkin donuts coffee on the flames coming out of the right rear wheel...yes it's flamable.

 

[Eric VerValin]

LoL! Well I remember on my first SHO, I was running a friend who had a Grand Am GT, and he thought it was fast, I had to prove to him it wasnt. The last time we went, I was buried beyond 140, and stepped on the brakes pretty hard that time. I remember seeing peices come flying out of the rear, glowing red. But since the hard lines are shot, I'm going to have Midas do it, and hand them the new lines, and let them fool with it. Sucks tho, as I'll probally have to get it towed there, being they leak so fast. Looks like it will leak out within a few minuites, if the leak was a little slower, I'd drive a few blocks, top it off, and so on, but it'll be dry by the time I'm ready to drop it off there. I think i'm going to wait on it too, since my clutch is brand new, and I dont want them smokin my new one.

 

[hawkeye18]

pff, just engine brake it there, you don't need new brakes! Use the parking brake if you have to stop!

 

[Eric VerValin]

Well yea I was thinking that same thing, but for some reason my cable wont pop back into place. I replaced the 2 rear cables, but it seems I'll need the front one too. I swear I'm replacing every damn part on this car... Oh well.. at least nothing will be used.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Probably a collapsed line. I loaned my FG the SHO a couple of years ago and I knew the rears were sticking a little...she called on her way to work very upset that she had to toss her dunkin donuts coffee on the flames coming out of the right rear wheel... yes it's flamable.

:laugh_ti: :laugh_ti: :laugh_ti:

 

[St Louis SHO]

I've had good luck starting the engine when bleeding on these.

 

[SHO92]

You shouldn't have to start the engine. If anything turn the key so the ABS pump sets the valves(maybe, don't know if it actually does). Starting the engine will only provide vaccuum assist, which isn't necessary for bleeding.

 

[SHOZ123]

Not necessary but it sure is a lot easier.

 

[Eric VerValin]

Well.. being I have a line that rusted thru, until I get that fixed, I wont be bleeding anything. The fronts went just fine, I guess the rears were just toast. Guess its time to upgrade to stainless.