Hey everyone, I was driving normal accelerating in first gear when I noticed something funny.... I was getting rocked back and forth and the clutch was completely let out by this time and it was at about 2200-2900rpm's, the car was rocking back and forth almost like i was givin it gas and then letting off over and over again, vvvvvv.......vvvvvvv.......vvvvvv.......vvvvvvv, so i shifted into second and it was gone. So i stopped, tried it again and the same thing happened. I wanted to familiarize myself with it to see if I could figure it out but by the time I tried to do it again it was back to normal. I drove around the block three more times and nothing. Is this a problem to be concerned with????? I will let you know as soon as or if it happens again since I have not started up and drove since, but any input or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Is it a problem?????
- Thread starter Corby
- Start date
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CerberuS
300 HP N/A SHO
might be a stupid question , does the clutch slips? does the RPM goes up and down while doing the VVVVVVVVVVVV...........VVVVVVVVVVV....VVVVVVVVVV
1993MTXSHO
Its a Taurus...
I dont know if this is the problem but I had somethign similer to this and it ended up being my positive battery terminal grounding to the hold down, which was grounded to the body and the nframe so my car wasnt happy. Moved the terminal and ground up the hold down problem solved
Where exactly would I move these to on the car/ where is there starting location suppost to be???? I noticed it slightly today and the kid who had this car did dick with alot of the wiring and had wires going all over the place which is why I still cannot get my front speakers hooked up.
It seems to be doing it more and more gradually almost like it bogs down and then I give it gas when I have my foot steady on the peddle. I know its not the clutch because I was cruising in 4th for like a mile and then went to pass a guy without shifting it giving it about half throttle at 2700 rpm's and it was like I was tapping the brakes or something..... If anyone can help me out with this, any input advice, It will be greatly appreciated and I will try all of them out at my auto class.
ShiftyShoMTX
New Member
Sounds like a missfire. Oil in plug wells or water is a common thing, also it may need new plugs/wires if there old
blacklabel
Member
I think new valve cover gaskets will fix the problem of the oil leaking into the plug wells.
Minnesho
i was wrong
Welcome to SHO ownership
iv been chaseing this same problem. I have new spark plugs and wires with no oil in the plug wells, iv also replaced the fuel filter and im always running 91 octane and im tryin some fuel injector cleaner but it dont seem to be working. ill try what 1993MTXSHO said and play with the bettery wires and see if that dose anything. the same thing started happing to me after washing my car and if anyone finds the cure for this let us know ...thanks
SHOtime3
DohcYamahammer
I've been having the same problem. Is anyones check engine light coming on when this happens mine does but I'm not getting a code for the problem. I've changed my plugs, plug wires, valve cover gaskets, o-rings, coil pack, belts, thermostat, fuel pump, crankshaft position sensor, and had the ign module checked. Their are only 3r4 things that I can think of that I haven't done already. 1) Maybe valvelash but I don't if it would cause the hesitation plus my cams looked fine and from what I could see of the shims were fine 2) the battery problem stated earlier (a pic would be nice) 3) fuel filter 4) possibly the camshaft position sensor (but I don't know if it would cause these symptoms either). I've also cleaned the throttle body & IAC.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/577946
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/577946
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My check engine light is now coming on and then off and on and off, I hope to be able to fix this problem within two weeks, I'm going to buy spark plugs, wires, valve cover gaskets, and a new 02 sensor, my question is about the battery..... where exactly is it supposted to be hooked up/ground to?
JrodSVT
New Member
it sounds so much like a TPS. Test it and find out.
using a volt meter.
Back probe the signal return wire and the TP wire and watch the voltage change. the VREF wire will do nothing but stay a constant 5V so don't back prode it. For backprobing the sensor you can use Tpins found in the sewing section of any store or you can use paper clips.
The specs for the sensor are at the lowest around .5 volts and at the max usually around 4.5V and no higher than 5v. There should be a slowly increasing transition toward the 4.5v. It should be smooth and the voltage should jump around more than .05v during the transition. so if it is slowly going up and all of a sudden it jump from 1.2v to 3 and then back down to 1.5v then you know the sensor is bad. To slowly increase the voltage you should twist the throttle with the key on and the engine off. If it passes this test and the sensor has smooth operation then don't replace.
Also if you feel like driving to Wheaton I have a spare TPS or I can test it for you. It would have to be tonight though because I wont be back in Northern Illinois until Monday evening after tomorrow. Wheaton is only like 40 minutes away from you.
using a volt meter.
Back probe the signal return wire and the TP wire and watch the voltage change. the VREF wire will do nothing but stay a constant 5V so don't back prode it. For backprobing the sensor you can use Tpins found in the sewing section of any store or you can use paper clips.
The specs for the sensor are at the lowest around .5 volts and at the max usually around 4.5V and no higher than 5v. There should be a slowly increasing transition toward the 4.5v. It should be smooth and the voltage should jump around more than .05v during the transition. so if it is slowly going up and all of a sudden it jump from 1.2v to 3 and then back down to 1.5v then you know the sensor is bad. To slowly increase the voltage you should twist the throttle with the key on and the engine off. If it passes this test and the sensor has smooth operation then don't replace.
Also if you feel like driving to Wheaton I have a spare TPS or I can test it for you. It would have to be tonight though because I wont be back in Northern Illinois until Monday evening after tomorrow. Wheaton is only like 40 minutes away from you.
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