Intrax springs? Anybody using them?

[fiveofanatic]

How do they ride? How low? I'm used to lowering pretty much everything I own, but my wife uses the SHO daily, so I don't want her complaining about a bouncy ride or rubbing issues.

 

[Osiris]

Welcome Curt!

Taking care of "my" Cobra?

thumb thumb

I hope you all are doing well, I really miss AZ sometimes. Anyhoo, Most G3 users that have lowered their cars are using the Roush springs.

They drop the car about .75" and a few people like Wuzzzer can show you a before/after pic.

I don't think there are any sets available any more but I hear a few are selling on ebay.

I still have a set of "new in the box" Roush springs but I'm still on the fence about selling them or keeping them. I'm really leaning towards selling them off for SVT Focus mods though. headbang

How's Stangnet BTW? Still going strong?

 

[wuzzzer]

Actually with the Roush springs, I've found that the front is lowered more like 1 1/2" and the back 1/2-3/4".
Here's a before...

...and after pic

I haven't had any problems at all as far as handling or rubbing. Although, you have to watch out for steep inclines and other things that could cause the front end to scrape!

 

[JaySHOguy]

PrplSHO, check your email. I sent you one yesterday...
Thanks!

 

[fiveofanatic]

Damien! How's TX man?

Have you seen your Cobra since I lowered it & put the right size tires on?

I've had a small website going for awhile now for Pacific Green Cobras, click here to see 'em. I've been thinking about doing the same for the PG SHO's, also.

I've actually been considering selling the Cobra recently, though; I've had it for a year & a half now, & have put maybe 5,000 miles on it. The voice in my ear telling me to sell it to fund my '91 LX has been strong lately.

 

[SHOerwin]

Welcome, Curt! I have a sweet Pacific Green '97 myself. You gotta love 'em! Wish mine was as low as Wuzzer's!

 

[Osiris]

Curt, the snake's lookin' good!

I hope you don't let her go but let me know if you really do think about it. I bet I could rustle up a buyer if not myself.. oh_my

TX is alright but I miss Phoenix, we'll see how the future goes but AZ is in there somewhere!

Jay, ok....I never really know whenI have a PM but I'll go look.

 

[JaySHOguy]

Damien, What is your NEW email addy ? wink

I replied to your old account.
Jason

 

[RStalveyARFF]

to get back on track, as far as I know the intrax springs do not even exist for the Gen III right now. Kirk called them and they had no clue what he was talking about.

 

[mcgilles]

yeah, I don't know what SHOShop is selling, I e-mailed them about the springs, since they are listed in the full package, and not as an individual item, but they said they don't offer anything for lowering the gen III anymore. which really sucks. I wanted to lower my car later on this summer, when I have some extra money from work. but it doesn't look like there will be any springs around by then

 

[SHOGHOST]

would anyone be able to rate these on a scale from 1-10 on personal preference?

 

[GordoSHO]

I am going to be putting the Roush springs in this weekend. I will let you know how I rate them. I hope that it is not a pain in the a$$. Wuzzer, I hope that my car drops as far as yours..josh finger

 

[wuzzzer]

I've observed the car 'settling' an additional 1/4-1/2" since the springs have been installed. It is definitely a noticeable difference when I look at pictures I took right after I had the springs installed compared to how the car sits right now.

 

[jtkz13]

I have roush's on my 2000 and have been happy. I just wish the SLO struts were firmer because now they are starting to get a little bouncy after 30k miles on Michigan roads. For the money though they are hard to beat.

I got about 1.5" on all four corners, but I also have a heavy sub system in the trunk. Mine does rub when I have like 4 people in the car, but I also am running wide 235/45/17's, and it doesn't rub at all when I have the stock wheels on. It is rubbing on the fender lip, so when I get off my ass I will bend it back a little bit more.

 

[SHOZ123]

I had some custom front springs made. Installing them today. They are 1.5" shorter than OEM and the same rate. I already had the struts lowered about a 1/2" in the front that I plan on raising back to the OEM level.

In the back I lowered the struts around 1" and if I use the 245 Kumhos on the Borbet wheels they will rub. I had to raise the rear about a 3/8" to stop that.

 

[fiveofanatic]

You lowered the struts? How so?

 

[sholando]

I lowered my GEN III SHO without replacing the Springs. I paid Ford Performance Systems $120.00 to do it on another one of my SHO's. It took me about 1 hour to lower the front of my car 1 inch. The car looks so much better now!! I haven't lowered the rear of the car, but it's just as easy.

It's so darn easy, it kind of makes me mad that I paid FPS so much to do it!!

First: Place a mark on the center of the strut AND ON THE HUB. This will help you align the strut and the hub after you move the strut down (measure up one inch and place the center mark there). This will enable you to know exactly when you have lowered the car one inch and also keep the strut assembly centered.

Loosen and remove the pinch bolt. Undo the bracket that holds the brake line to the strut assembly. You will notice that this bracket has a hole for the screw to go though and a tab. Remove or bend the tab back so you can reattach the bracket later. Spray some WD-40 on the strut down by the hub, this will make it easier to slide the strut down into the hub. Behind the strut there is a piece of metal about 3 inches long that is welded to the strut assembly this MUST be moved out of the way or removed (it's also holds the brake line bracket so if you remove it totally, you'll have to figure out how to hold the brake line in place). I used a large screw driver and a wedge to 'bend' this piece out of the way. Once this is done the strut will easily move down into the hub (or the hub can easily move up the strut. Don't go ANY lower then 1 inch or you will hit the CV boot and rip it apart. I used my Jack and a piece of wood to gently move the hub up and get it positioned perfectly.

Install and tighten the pinch bolt and reattach the brake line bracket to the back of the strut.

Extremely easy - easier then it sounds.

Rob

 

[SHOZ123]

Someomne posted this link on the V8 list the other day. http://www.streetbeatcustoms.com/fortaur96upl.html

They also have the ASP UDP for the V8.

 

[Porkchop]

I have the roush on my car and I like them ... you feel the road more and un-even portions you will feel it. A lot of people say that the car moves as a unit, instead of indipendant. As for the bouncy'ness, I don't feel it, If anything it recovers from a bump faster than OEM. Speed bumps for instance ... on most "normal" sized speed bumps it takes my car just about 1 bounce to recover and it goes back to its normal position.

Like wuzzer said, you have to watch the road carefully ... esp for potholes and in construction areas those darned raised structures and the :ledges" they leave when a road gets re-surfaced. Speed bumps, driveways, commercial buisness enterances, etc etc etc etc.... rant doh

Mark - I noticed the settling as well, In total it lowered my front ~1.75" and the rears just around your 1/2" - 3/4" . I havn't lowered via the struts mostly because its low enough as it is! thumb

All-in-all ... I would install them - I like the look, the ride and more importantly the handling improvement. Def go for it!!

<small>[ June 04, 2003, 10:49 PM: Message edited by: Porkchop ]</small>

 

[fiveofanatic]

sholando:
I lowered my GEN III SHO without replacing the Springs. I paid Ford Performance Systems $120.00 to do it on another one of my SHO's. It took me about 1 hour to lower the front of my car 1 inch. The car looks so much better now!! I haven't lowered the rear of the car, but it's just as easy.

It's so darn easy, it kind of makes me mad that I paid FPS so much to do it!!

First: Place a mark on the center of the strut AND ON THE HUB. This will help you align the strut and the hub after you move the strut down (measure up one inch and place the center mark there). This will enable you to know exactly when you have lowered the car one inch and also keep the strut assembly centered.

Loosen and remove the pinch bolt. Undo the bracket that holds the brake line to the strut assembly. You will notice that this bracket has a hole for the screw to go though and a tab. Remove or bend the tab back so you can reattach the bracket later. Spray some WD-40 on the strut down by the hub, this will make it easier to slide the strut down into the hub. Behind the strut there is a piece of metal about 3 inches long that is welded to the strut assembly this MUST be moved out of the way or removed (it's also holds the brake line bracket so if you remove it totally, you'll have to figure out how to hold the brake line in place). I used a large screw driver and a wedge to 'bend' this piece out of the way. Once this is done the strut will easily move down into the hub (or the hub can easily move up the strut. Don't go ANY lower then 1 inch or you will hit the CV boot and rip it apart. I used my Jack and a piece of wood to gently move the hub up and get it positioned perfectly.

Install and tighten the pinch bolt and reattach the brake line bracket to the back of the strut.

Extremely easy - easier then it sounds.

Rob

Interesting! I might have to play around with that a bit, thanks for the info.