Intermittent no start (update)

[autobahnsho]

HI guys. Yes I did a search.

Is this Electrical, or Starter- My SHO sometimes on start just sounds like slo-motion start, it turns over VERY slowly and won't crank up.

The battery was tested and replaced, I've cleaned the contacts. When I jump it (to + terminal on battery and - to the engine lift hook next to intake) it starts right up. I'm getting 12.3v across the battery when off and 13.3v when running, I assume the alternator is good, it IS keeping the battery charged. This leads me to believe that it's a problem w/ the negative battery cable.

However, the starter does have oil dripping off it (my next project is my upper seals). I don't have an easy way to have it tested, is it worth my time to remove, clean, and replace it? I don't think it's the connectors TO the starter, since it still starts without disturbing them one way or another.

Will a bad starter require more juice to turn?
Should I try jumping to the - battery terminal, to see if it still doesn't get enough power?

As always, thank you,

<small>[ December 05, 2003, 12:01 PM: Message edited by: autobahnsho ]</small>

 

[AutoSHO]

The starter most likely has oil dripping off from a leaky Oil Filter. Thats where they drip.

Have you cleaned all the contacts on the starter end of the cables?

 

[Yamaha V6]

Starter, or corroded cables. I replaced my 91's starter with a Gen 2 version, with new cables. Absolutely no problems since.

 

[projectSHO89]

Connect your meter from the negative terminal of the battery to the engine block, disconnect the DIS module, then have someone crank the engine.

If you measure more than .2 to .3 volts, you have a bad connection or ground cable.

Steve

 

[DHMag]

just had the same problem with my friends 4.0 Ranger. took the starter to a rebuild shop..installed a new set of brushes, tested it...seemed slow..so changed the solenoid and now its good to go.

when you turn the key to start, do you just hear a click ? if so, thats the starter solenoid on the fender well. the starter also has a solenoid on it. being covered in oil doesnt help..

 

[autobahnsho]

It never 'just' clicks. It either starts, or it grinds really slow.

Odd how this never happened before I changed the clutch. And the clutch never had problems before I changed the CPS... It's like a never-ending tangle.

And so I'm still wondering if it's the starter or solenoid related, why the extra power would help??

<small>[ November 17, 2003, 05:25 PM: Message edited by: autobahnsho ]</small>

 

[rangerj]

autobahnsho,
If all of your cables and connections are good consider the following.

Go to a service station that has a "Starting and Charging Tester and have an "amp draw" or "starter load" test done on the starter. Basically the amp draw is measured while the starter cranks the engine, i.e. "under a load".

The starter's normal load current draw is from 150 tp 250 amps. If the starter draws more amps than specified it should be rebuilt or replaced.

The same tester can do a "no-load" test if the starter is removed from the vehicle. Most parts store can do the "no-load" test (aka "bench test"). The expected amp draw is 80 amps under a "no-load" condition.

You could take the starter apart, clean all the crap out of it, clean up the commutator, lubricate the bearing surfaces, lubricate the bendix shaft, check the condition of the brushes, and replace any worn or damaged parts as necessary. rangerj

 

[autobahnsho]

Thanks for your help, guys.

The problem SEEMED to be fixed. I had taken my (new) battery out to start someone's Cherokee one night and cleaned the terminals when I put it back in. I didn't have any problems until today.

My wife was waiting to turn and when she went to go, it died on her. She said she didn't stall, but it sounds like she did. Then it started but wouldn't drive. (??- She said it chugged while it was in gear w/ the clutch out.) Then it wouldn't start again. We jumped it and drove home fine.

I started poking around and found the negative cable to the starter came off! The nut had come loose and fallen off. (Was the cable knocking around causing my wife's chugging?) So I get a light out (it gets dark early here in the winter time) and put the cable back on.

Now I get a rapid clicking sound coming from the solenoid on the fender by the airbox. (I touched it while someone turned the key and I could feel it clicking.) I didn't try to jump it yet. I will tomorrow just to try it. But now I'm pretty sure the problem is the solenoid, right?

Does adding additional power (jumping) to a failing solenoid somehow help it? Or was it just my bad cable connection?

Thanx again, guys.

 

[autobahnsho]

So I jumped it, we're running, and the problem didn't happen for 5 days.

last night though, it wouldn't start, jumped it and then put a multimeter on, and started wiggling cables.

Where the cable goes into the plug that goes into the alternator is either corroded inside or bent, or the plug isn't good. We watched the voltage go up and down from 14+ down to 5v.

Is this cable/ connector replaceable?? What is it called?

Thanks,

<small>[ December 06, 2003, 05:43 AM: Message edited by: autobahnsho ]</small>