onanysunday
Member
Hi,
I posted this in response to another, unrelated thread but thought it would be a good idea for everyone to see and be able to have easier access to. I apologize if this exact method has already been discussed in an earlier thread, I am new here. I have the 2013 FPIS 3.5 EcoBoost. These GTDI engines are notorious, or should I say a "ticking time bomb" for carbon build-up on the backs of the intake valves since they use direct injection and not port injection that sprays a gasoline mist on the backs of these valves which cleans them (like other engines do). Because of this, the state of build-up on the backs of the intake valves at any time is an "unknown" you don't necessarily want to take for granted or have looming over you. It should at least be checked and periodically cleaned (relatively often). If you wait too long or have never done this before and the vehicle has high miles, it's not a bad idea to check. Also, this build-up can happen relatively quick which is why some people install a catch can. Please note Ford does not have an approved method of cleaning these intake valves, will not perform this cleaning service, and recommends replacing parts instead. I imagine some failed attempt at this could void a warranty. So proceed at your own risk, etc.
Long story short, I found that an articulating borescope fits perfectly through the MAP sensor hole directly on top of the intake, allowing you to get a good glimpse of the amount of carbon build-up on back of the intake valves without having to disassemble anything besides the one torx screw holding the sensor in place. I'd say this is highly recommended for these engines and this intake design in particular as it's very easy to do. What this does is that it can help give you an idea of whether or not something like CRC Intake Valve and Turbo cleaner is a good idea (if the build-up is mild) or a bad idea if the build-up is severe in which case intake disassembly and walnut blasting -or manual carbon removal- is a better choice to avoid larger amounts of carbon chunks from accidentally getting into and scoring the combustion chambers or damaging the valves or turbos before the build-up has a chance to be liquified by the cleaner as it is sucked in (and through) the engine. Also, it's not a bad idea to run some Lucas Upper Cylinder lubricant in your gas (and a box fan on high) on a colder day when attempting the spray method to keep the turbo heat in check.
I posted this in response to another, unrelated thread but thought it would be a good idea for everyone to see and be able to have easier access to. I apologize if this exact method has already been discussed in an earlier thread, I am new here. I have the 2013 FPIS 3.5 EcoBoost. These GTDI engines are notorious, or should I say a "ticking time bomb" for carbon build-up on the backs of the intake valves since they use direct injection and not port injection that sprays a gasoline mist on the backs of these valves which cleans them (like other engines do). Because of this, the state of build-up on the backs of the intake valves at any time is an "unknown" you don't necessarily want to take for granted or have looming over you. It should at least be checked and periodically cleaned (relatively often). If you wait too long or have never done this before and the vehicle has high miles, it's not a bad idea to check. Also, this build-up can happen relatively quick which is why some people install a catch can. Please note Ford does not have an approved method of cleaning these intake valves, will not perform this cleaning service, and recommends replacing parts instead. I imagine some failed attempt at this could void a warranty. So proceed at your own risk, etc.
Long story short, I found that an articulating borescope fits perfectly through the MAP sensor hole directly on top of the intake, allowing you to get a good glimpse of the amount of carbon build-up on back of the intake valves without having to disassemble anything besides the one torx screw holding the sensor in place. I'd say this is highly recommended for these engines and this intake design in particular as it's very easy to do. What this does is that it can help give you an idea of whether or not something like CRC Intake Valve and Turbo cleaner is a good idea (if the build-up is mild) or a bad idea if the build-up is severe in which case intake disassembly and walnut blasting -or manual carbon removal- is a better choice to avoid larger amounts of carbon chunks from accidentally getting into and scoring the combustion chambers or damaging the valves or turbos before the build-up has a chance to be liquified by the cleaner as it is sucked in (and through) the engine. Also, it's not a bad idea to run some Lucas Upper Cylinder lubricant in your gas (and a box fan on high) on a colder day when attempting the spray method to keep the turbo heat in check.