Installing Start Button

[Danielle]

So my car is finally able to run but my wiring is messed up and its cheaper to just buy a push start button. I bought a push button and some 16 gauge wire. How would I go along with this?

 

[luigisho]

I would wire in a hidden toggle switch somewhere out of sight, in addition to the push button, so you can prevent someone from starting it if you're parked in an iffy area. The wiring shouldn't be that bad. I would wire it back to normal. It probably looks worse than it is.

 

[Danielle]

I would wire in a hidden toggle switch somewhere out of sight, in addition to the push button, so you can prevent someone from starting it if you're parked in an iffy area. The wiring shouldn't be that bad. I would wire it back to normal. It probably looks worse than it is.

Im not sure where to wire the two 16 gauge wires that are connected to the button. A mechanic told me to just insert a push button to start it. DO you by any chance know how?

 

[luigisho]

I could figure it out if the stuff was in front of me. Sort of like the wire to the starter. Couldn't put that together not looking at everything in context.

My questions are:

Why is the battery not charged or holding a charge? &
Would the car have started if the battery was good and the starter wire that came off was plugged in?

If the answer to the second is yes then I think chopping up your wiring further is a mistake. Have you tried putting all the ignition wires back to normal and seeing if the car will start normally?

A friend of mine had his key break off in the ignition way back in the '80's. He filed it flush in the ignition cylinder and had a car that you could just turn the cylinder and it would start. Several months later that thing was gone. Did someone break in and get lucky, or did someone tell a friend and they told another friend and so on.. and someone who knew it was easy picking take it? Dunno but would make me think twice.

 

[Danielle]

I could figure it out if the stuff was in front of me. Sort of like the wire to the starter. Couldn't put that together not looking at everything in context.

My questions are:

Why is the battery not charged or holding a charge? &
Would the car have started if the battery was good and the starter wire that came off was plugged in?

If the answer to the second is yes then I think chopping up your wiring further is a mistake. Have you tried putting all the ignition wires back to normal and seeing if the car will start normally?

A friend of mine had his key break off in the ignition way back in the '80's. He filed it flush in the ignition cylinder and had a car that you could just turn the cylinder and it would start. Several months later that thing was gone. Did someone break in and get lucky, or did someone tell a friend and they told another friend and so on.. and someone who knew it was easy picking take it? Dunno but would make me think twice.

We havent cut any wires or anything yet. He just took a random wire laying around, strippee the ends and connected one end to the starter fuse. He then split the white with red stripe wire in half (still connected) and attached the wire to it. He said the reason he did that was because there is supposed to be a "hot" wire and neither of my wires were hot.

 

[luigisho]

Hmm. I would take note of what was done so you can redo it, and then try putting the stuff back to the stock setup. You have juice to all the accessories when the key was turned initially before the mechanic came by. Now keep in mind I don't know everything that was done and in what order so placing all the stuff that was done in what order is not in my brain. However it appears that the biggest problems were battery power and starter wire disconnected.

When he plugged the starter wire in the pic back in, was it before or after he installed the jumper wire? This is tough to track not being there and the order of things done. Was any of the wiring hacked up before all the starting problems happened?

 

[Danielle]

Hmm. I would take note of what was done so you can redo it, and then try putting the stuff back to the stock setup. You have juice to all the accessories when the key was turned initially before the mechanic came by. Now keep in mind I don't know everything that was done and in what order so placing all the stuff that was done in what order is not in my brain. However it appears that the biggest problems were battery power and starter wire disconnected.

When he plugged the starter wire in the pic back in, was it before or after he installed the jumper wire? This is tough to track not being there and the order of things done. Was any of the wiring hacked up before all the starting problems happened?

Well. I got it put in just now. Works great also. The mechanic was also talking to me about how my battery was dying. Im thinking of just returning it and getting a new one. He also said there could be something thats drawing power from it but im not sure. But Im still having trouble with my RPMs fluctuating. It will go up and down for some reason. I already replaced the TPS and someone told me to unplug the MAF sensor to see if my car gets better but it doesnt. I personally think it gets a little worse

 

[luigisho]

Yes a fully charged battery is required for normal operating. So there is either a drain on it, or the alt is not charging it, or the battery is bad, or less likely a combo. A bad battery makes the alternator work harder and wears that out and a bad alt wears out a good battery quickly. Weak or failing parts can often take out something else depending on how things interoperate. There is a youtube clip or 10 on how to determine if there is a power draw on the system using a volt meter and how to track it down. I was looking at this a few months ago as I also have an issue with my SHO. Haven't got to it as I have a lot of other issues such as rust, headliner and upholstery problems in addition to massive oil leaks and electrical issue. I don't have the time to do that much work, so I bought a newer truck & another SHO a few weeks ago to putz around with. When I was your age I would tackle all the work but I just don't have the time & need a reliable daily driver for my job all day every day.

 

[Danielle]

Yes a fully charged battery is required for normal operating. So there is either a drain on it, or the alt is not charging it, or the battery is bad, or less likely a combo. A bad battery makes the alternator work harder and wears that out and a bad alt wears out a good battery quickly. Weak or failing parts can often take out something else depending on how things interoperate. There is a youtube clip or 10 on how to determine if there is a power draw on the system using a volt meter and how to track it down. I was looking at this a few months ago as I also have an issue with my SHO. Haven't got to it as I have a lot of other issues such as rust, headliner and upholstery problems in addition to massive oil leaks and electrical issue. I don't have the time to do that much work, so I bought a newer truck & another SHO a few weeks ago to putz around with. When I was your age I would tackle all the work but I just don't have the time & need a reliable daily driver for my job all day every day.

Ya I understand. I know for sure that the alternator is good. I have also taken the battery to oreillys three times and they tell me its a good battery. Something has to be draining it. Well, I was hoping to make this car my daily driver but everytime I fix something; something else goes bad

 

[TimboSHO]

Ya I understand. I know for sure that the alternator is good. I have also taken the battery to oreillys three times and they tell me its a good battery. Something has to be draining it. Well, I was hoping to make this car my daily driver but everytime I fix something; something else goes bad

The battery is simply being drained just by messing around with it so much trying to get it to start. It needs to run to keep the battery charged, and since you have spent a considerable amount of time on diagnosis, the battery is getting weak just from turning the key on and off and trying to start it so much. Stick a battery charger on it to keep it charged while you are still messing around with it.

If you want to add a start button, it would be wise to add one that only gets power when the key is turned on so that you can't start it without the key.

 

[Danielle]

The battery is simply being drained just by messing around with it so much trying to get it to start. It needs to run to keep the battery charged, and since you have spent a considerable amount of time on diagnosis, the battery is getting weak just from turning the key on and off and trying to start it so much. Stick a battery charger on it to keep it charged while you are still messing around with it.

If you want to add a start button, it would be wise to add one that only gets power when the key is turned on so that you can't start it without the key.

Ya. Thats how my push button is set up. The problem is that I charged the battery overnight and made sure to remove the negative cable. Kept it on all night, through this morning. Put the push button in and tried starting it, it just clicked like its been doing. Because it keeps dying. Im gonna check with my multimeter tomorrow and see if I can find the source of the drainage

 

[luigisho]

What is your voltage reading at the battery and what is it when the car is running? Also with failing batteries you can get close to a good voltage reading and still have damaged cells that effect the cold cranking amps available to start the car. CCA's can be measured at the parts store even if you have to remove the battery and take it there. Most will also charge it for you if you leave it.

 

[luigisho]

Well, I was hoping to make this car my daily driver but everytime I fix something; something else goes bad

That's how mine got and I needed to make a change. Old cars are tough to depend on for reliable daily use. I used to have 2 vehicles for this reason. I wound up giving one away for a friend to use back when my SHO was in great running shape but that reliability has passed. Maybe you need a second vehicle. At least to run for parts!

 

[jimtash]

That's how mine got and I needed to make a change. Old cars are tough to depend on for reliable daily use. I used to have 2 vehicles for this reason. I wound up giving one away for a friend to use back when my SHO was in great running shape but that reliability has passed. Maybe you need a second vehicle. At least to run for parts!

Agree. But my experience is that aftermarket parts are unreliable. Motorcraft stuff lasts. For example, I just replaced a Napa brand starter switch today that was less than 2 years old. I think the previous Motorcraft switch lasted 10 years. So buy OEM when you can IMO.

Also buy parts when they go on closeout or sale. While the switch I installed today wasn't a Motorcraft, it was a Kempart brand that I bought from RockAuto a while back because it was on sale for $5.00. I've built up quite a little stash of parts and sensors that were bought at huge discounts. And it's nice to have them on hand when they're needed.