IMRC

[Funmart6]

I cannot remember if there is a way to do this or not, I've searched but haven't found an answer.

The IMRC module doesn't work on my engine, if I recall correctly there was a broken plastic piece in there. Anyway, I wired the runners open and would like to know, is there any way to keep the "service engine soon" light from coming on? Playing around, getting the car running good before it goes to the transmission shop this weekend, it's been sitting a while so, working some bugs out. Thanks for any suggestions.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[luigisho]

Is that the issue that's popping the light? You can clear the codes and hope.

I think Paul Nimz had his wired open for a long while. This was a long time ago and maybe it was someone else but I know it was an old timer.. in SHO Forum years that is. I don't remember if that car had a constant light on.

I guess you could do the bulb in the dash removal trick if draining the battery to clear codes doesn't work.

You try the V8 mailing list? Gets questions to a bunch of us older forum members directly.

 

[gamefanatic]

I am not sure there is a simple way to do this without replacing the IMRC. I know the box is used on several cars to include those with the Duratec and Intrax engines as they were both DOHC's. So finding them in the junk yards wouldn't be too hard.

The transmission shop won't need to worry about that problem anyway, unless you don't tell them and they spend time trying to fix it...

They will just be looking for codes related to the transmission and anything related to the removal and installation of the tranny.

If you have a programmer I believe you can flip the value to say it is not installed.

 

[stephen newberg]

Ah, I think there is another issue causing your SES. If you wire the IMRC open you will get a code on first start up after, but when you clear that, you will never get the code again. Mine has been wired open since about 1999.

pax, smn

 

[GEN 3 SHO FAN]

I wired them open 2 times and I never saw a SES coming on. A good maintenance upgrade by the way because the space between secondaries valves and IMRC openings is a very great place for carbon deposits. (Can the code could be linked to something else ?)

If you mind with this, you can also replace by a duratech IMRC. The box is different but all internal parts are the same IIRC.

Have a good day,

 

[Funmart6]

Thanks for all the replies. I just started the car for the first time in about 6 months. Light was off until I revved the engine a couple of times. Haven't had it scanned as I am not driving the car until the new transmission installation. I would assume that one would need a scanner or programmer to clear the code for the IMRC, I wouldn't think that disconnecting the battery to clear it would be a permanent thing, but correct me if I am wrong. My son and I worked pretty much all day checking the car out, freshened up the paint on the brake calipers, that took a while. We put new tires on today so I figured, while we had all four wheels off we would do a little brake clean up and repaint. We put a freshly charged battery in and some fresh gas and she fired right up and ran very well. I moved her around a little in the yard and parked back in the driveway for a good bath but we ran out of daylight. I've got a few days to sort out some things, I noticed that the dash pad had popped up near the front of the windshield and the fabric around the sunroof has slipped down a little, I can easily fix the fabric around the sunroof but don't know how to fix the dash pad. I'm sure there is a write up about it on the forum somewhere, seems I remember it was a common issue. So, I'll get her all sorted out soon, making progress.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[gamefanatic]

I have had 4 Gen3 car's, all have the foam release from the plastic dash. Likely due to poor factory glue and a bit of shrinkage of the material. Best is to use a heavy glue.

I have used silicone, but that can have a long lasting oder, especially on hot days long after drying. Last time I used 3M adhesive spray from Autozone.

Be sure to do it on a hot day otherwise heat up the dash between 110 - 140°F to ensure flexibility of material.

To get a close to OEM look you will need to stretch the material a bit while the glue dries. Just be sure you have a "dry" run, before you commit. If you use the spray, be sure to get it on the foam and dash, but watch out for over-spray. Tape up the areas around using some masking tape and paper.

 

[Funmart6]

Thanks for the tips about the dash pad. I've got some automotive spray adhesive and I also have some Loctite Power Grab that I think will work.

 

[luigisho]

Good luck. I had not so great results getting that thing looking right after several attempts. Design/materials flaw. That stuff shrinks and the arch is too great to keep it from separating.

 

[Funmart6]

Thanks, this is near the windshield, I looked at it this morning and the material is stiff, going to have to add some heat to it so I can maybe straighten it back out. It's in really good shape, no tears or cracks, just popped up. Wish I had noticed it before but maybe a heat gun or even a blow dryer will help relax it a bit.

 

[stephen newberg]

=" I wouldn't think that disconnecting the battery to clear it would be a permanent thing, but correct me if I am wrong."

Actually, that was all I did and it never came back. I really do suspect that it is not the IMRC causing your code and SES light.

pax, smn

 

[gamefanatic]

Thanks, this is near the windshield, I looked at it this morning and the material is stiff, going to have to add some heat to it so I can maybe straighten it back out. It's in really good shape, no tears or cracks, just popped up. Wish I had noticed it before but maybe a heat gun or even a blow dryer will help relax it a bit.

I know it would be some work, but if its too close to the windshield you may want to remove the dash to get at it properly, at least lean it towards you. I had to do that on my Cadi as it would peel back from the heater vent, which also held the sunload resistor.

 

[Funmart6]

Actually, that was all I did and it never came back. I really do suspect that it is not the IMRC causing your code and SES light.

pax, smn

Yeah, you may be correct sir, I'll get it all checked out when I can actually drive the car on the street. The car has sat for so long, no telling what it could be.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[Funmart6]

I know it would be some work, but if its too close to the windshield you may want to remove the dash to get at it properly, at least lean it towards you. I had to do that on my Cadi as it would peel back from the heater vent, which also held the sunload resistor.

Okay thanks. The part that has popped up isn't right against the windshield, it's back a few inches. The softer padded area of the dash has a harder surface that surrounds/outlines the softer part, it's the softer part that has popped.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[SHOZ123]

To keep the SES from coming on with the IRMC bypassed just electrically disconnect it.