IMRC Repaired

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SHO#7

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I just bought a 96 and the IMRC was stuck closed. I noticed that the cable was ok for as much as I could see, but sure enough. It would not move like it should.

I took the IMRC box apart and found that there are two pulleys inside and the lower one was broken. I took the cable off and knocked the plug out that gives access to the top pulley, hooked up the cable and she worked.

I just wondered if the pulley breaking was common? I know the cable is, but I was excited to be able to repair the IMRC. As nobody likes to spend 150$+ if they can help it.
 

Mr.R

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IMRC 1519=closed

Hello all im new and having a few probs and one is the IMRC
I got a 1519 code that its stucked closed. Mike is this the same code that you were getting if so does it sound like i got the same prob?I opened the IMRC box and then closed it up (it looked very clean ) i reved the engin up and i saw it open then it closed as i let go then did it again and it didnt repete
any help on what i should do to repair it let me know please. I also have a
P0141 Downstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater circuit fault - Bank No. 1 code to clear up if any sugs for that sit it would be cool too and Pictures pleas i work better with pictures if possible thanks in advance to all that help. oh yeah i got a 98 white 3.0 DOHC duratec V6
 

BodylessSHO

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Mr. R, www.taurusclub.com could probably help you with that better than we could.

The pulley braking is fairly common, as www.v8sho.com will show you. If you can find an IMRC motor at a junkyard that's in good shape, that's the cheaper route. I had to get a new one, as I couldn't find one. Luckily my mom gets parts from Ford at cost, which was around 150. Sale cost from the dealership is 189 plus tax.
 

SHOZ123

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I currently have my IRMC box removed and the butterflies wired open. I have another IRM that the butterflies have been removed and the butterfly shaft holes were filled with epoxy. This is going on next time I get the intake off.

It removal of the butterflies should increase the flow by quite a bit as the shaft is 11/32" thick.
 

CT97White

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SHOZ123 said:
I currently have my IRMC box removed and the butterflies wired open. I have another IRM that the butterflies have been removed and the butterfly shaft holes were filled with epoxy. This is going on next time I get the intake off.

It removal of the butterflies should increase the flow by quite a bit as the shaft is 11/32" thick.
Paul,

Does keeping the butterflies open all the time result in a rough idle or loss of low rpm torque? My IMRC stopped working last week and I'm wondering if this is a viable option at least for the short term. I now that you have a significant number of modifications into your car, but mine is basically stock.

John.
 

Mr. SHO

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My butterflies are currently wired open. I did this last summer too, when the first IMRC cable frayed. Back then, there was no difference in mileage, driveability, low-end TQ, nothing. But I fell into a $5 working IMRC unit, so I just put it in and it was fine for about 7-8 months.

The IMRC is broken again, so the 'flies are wired open. Now that it's freezing out, the car is a little hesitant to idle smoothly for the first few minutes. When you step on the gas, it smooths out in a hurry. :evilgrin: After a little stop and go around town, the idle is normal. I don't intend to fix the IMRC again, even for $5.
 

SHOZ123

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The only problem I have seen is when it is below 20F. Tonight it is going to get down to ~5F. It will idle OK once it runs for a couple of minutes.

My chip is getting re-flashed to eliminate all the codes and little things that are involved in the IRM. I know they close just before shifting with a timing bit of retard too.

BTW I just unplugged the module and took it off while wire tying the butterflies open. Got a P1518 (stuck open) and a P 1519 (stuck closed) Cleared the faults and they never came back.
 

CT97White

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I removed my IMRC control last night (the cable was broken) and wired the butterflies open. I took it for a test drive, but it was still warm from the evening commute & it was about 50º here so it seemed to run just fine.

It's still pretty warm this morning, so it will be a few days before I can see what it is like in freezing weather.

I still have the MIL illuminated. The manual says it should go out after three drive cycles with no error, but I have not looked to see what type of error it may create by removing the control box. If it does not go out, I will disconnect the battery to reset the PCM & see if mine never come back too.
 

SHO#7

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I would think that you are going to get a P1518 with them wired open. Even with the IMRC removed. Would the computer not be looking for the 5v that is sent to the ECM when the butterflies are closed? :shrug:

I know that since I have repaired mine, and it works great. It only gets 2.89v or something like that when they are closed. It make the SES pop on as soon as the next start up. Even if I just cleared it with my scanner.

If I can wire open my secondaries and remove the IMRC all together, and not make the SES light come on. I'm in.

Paul, any insight on this before I go rip off the apperance cover and un-plug the IMRC.

Thanks.
 

Mr. SHO

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No you won't get any codes whatsoever with the IMRC box removed (or just unplugged).

Just two suggestions for you guys:

1. Use strong wire.
2. Make sure you have the butterflies pulled ALL the way open.

The first time I wired them open, I used zip ties. This left the butterflies just a little bit short of fully-open (unbeknownst to me). Later, when I had the appearance cover off, I decided I didn't like the look of the zip ties, so I replaced them with a piece of utility wire. I also noticed that there was a little bit more travel left with the zip ties in there, so I made sure to pull the wire very tight before securing it. This returned the top-end HP I had been missing. Since then, I have replaced the wire with some really heavy stuff (14 gauge steel rod) so I don't have to think about it ever again.
 

CT97White

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My MIL did go off on the way to work this morning. I made sure to park the car and shut off the ignition several times during my test drive last to create the required 3 driving cycles. Looks like it worked. Power is restored and no more annoying light.

It does feel like there is a slight loss of low end torque. The only way to really feel it is to put it in second gear and force the engine to pull full throttle from about 2000 rpm on up. In first it revs too fast to really notice much difference.
 

SHOZ123

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SHO#7 said:
If I can wire open my secondaries and remove the IMRC all together, and not make the SES light come on. I'm in.

Paul, any insight on this before I go rip off the apperance cover and un-plug the IMRC.

Thanks.

I don't get any codes and the IRMC is off the vehicle. I also used two wire ties to hold open the butterflies until I change out the manifold for the gutted one.
 

CT97White

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It's been several days with the butterflies wired open, and I'm quite certain that really like it better this way. The MIL has been out for days & from what I read here and on V8SHO.com, I know I won't be seeing it again. I have no trouble starting or idling & we have had temperatures down to 20ºF for the past two days. Yesterday morning it stumbled a little when I put it gear, but this was pretty minor. Very forgiveable for 20ºF.

The throttle is more progressive with no transition at 3400 rpm. There may be a slight loss of torque from 2000-2500 rpm, but beyond that it actually feels stronger. It also makes a nicer sound now from 2500-3500 rpm.

I do wonder though if it will pass emissions this way. I just went through with flying colors about two weeks, so I'm good for now. Worst case, I need to remove the wires on my way to the next test.

Has anybody passed an emissions test with the butterflies wired open or removed?
 

E1

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The Butterfly Plates on my Red 97 have been hanging in a bag on my garage wall for a year now. IMRC Box is removed from the car as well. Slight "Tick" in the idle from time to time, No noticeable change in performance, IMO.
 

lancSHO

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How about fuel economy? I noticed on the dyno the A/F takes a pretty big dip when those 2ndaries open up.
 

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