Ignition Switch Woes - HELP!!

[SHOBlu]

I recently replaced the ignition switch in my ATX because it seemed as if the old one was on its way out. It had an intermittant no start condition, and jumping it seemed to solve the problem, hence I replaced it.

With the new one, when it is moved to the "start" position, nothing happens. I have to jump the terminal that goes to the starter with a "hot" wire in order for the starter to operate. I am sick of beating my head against the wall with this thing!! How, if the wiring is good - with both power to the switch and continuity to the starter (through the shifter) does this happen?? I can't believe I have 2 bad switches. Then again, maybe I do!! LOL

I found out there are two switches available. F2DZ11572A - up to 3/94 and F4DZ11572B - from 3/94. Thanks Ford!!

Does anyone know what, if any, are the differences between the early Gen2 switches and the later ones (those built up to 3/94 and those built afterward)? Is the later switch backward compatible to the early build Gen2's? I know that the early switch had an insert that sat in where the connector plugs in, but was something different internally between the two?

EDIT: I just realized that the blower motor is inop as well. I'm not sure if this has anything to do with the starter/ignition switch circuit or not. :SHRUG:

Has anyone had a similar problem?? Any help would be appreciated!! Thanks.

 

[Black '93]

Do a search on ignition, and hopeflly you'll find something there. Try using different keywords to get what you're looking for. Later.

 

[sdpatt]

Are you referring to the ignition lock cylinder that the key fits into or the actual ignition switch that contains the rather hefty contacts that pass the big current to engage the starter solenoid? Check this topic I wrote regarding the replacement of both.

 

[SonicRiot]

It sounds just like the problem I had with my Plus. I had an intermittant no-start condition that shotgunned-"diagnosed" as the starter solenoid. I replaced the solenoid only for the same condition to resurface a month later. I traced the issue to very high resistance in the control wire from the clutch interlock switch to the starter solenoid (it would be a neutral/park switch for an ATX). I replaced the wire and solved the problem.

BUT, the issue resurfaced AGAIN about 4 months later. I had replaced the original Ford remote solenoid with a crappy AutoZone piece, but had kept the Ford solenoid in a junk parts box. I traced the problem to the solenoid not grounding properly; the cheap part had rusted to create a significant resistance. I dug out the original Ford solenoid and swapped back to its rightful place. I haven't had the issue resurface in two years (knock on wood!).

Writing this though, I have no idea if GenII ATXs even have remote solenoids.

 

[SHOBlu]

Thanks guys!!

Chris - Gen2's have piggyback solenoids, but you have some good info there with the wiring - I'll check it out.

Scott - Its the switch not lock cyl. I found your post in a search 10 min before you posted here. LOL. I printed it and am taking it with me to check wiring and fuses. I have high hopes that It'll be fixed today. I'll keep you posted.