I think im screwed

[.RaMpAgE.]

mm i notice when im sitting there idling for a while idk like 5 mins lets call it the temp gauge moves alot and eventually moves it way north past the O and then gets to the N....thats not the scary part though the oil prx light comes on when it gets up that high past the N....i dont hear the fans kicking on until i rev it a lil bit or turn the defroster on then i hear them kick on then the light goes away.....blow head gasket??? i dont see any coolant in the oil or vice a versa.... rod bearings but wouldnt that always be on though not just with temp..... how long does it take for a head gasket install ??

the SHO's only got to last me another month or so til i can get back up to Washington hopefully it can make it, so i can put another engine in 3.2 and new clutch

 

[Ishodu]

You will learn with the SHO the gauge moves a lot for such a little change in temp. The coolant temp is in the normal range its NORMAL. Now the oil light thing is likely due to low oil pressure. Whats the numbers of the oil you are running? The rod bearings may need to be changed in the very near future.

 

[.RaMpAgE.]

i kno i kno i took it to jiffy **** but thats the only place around here i could find i just moved to vegas but on the documentation it said 10w 30 which i believe is a lil thick isnt it 5w 30

 

[Brett]

i kno i kno i took it to jiffy **** but thats the only place around here i could find i just moved to vegas but on the documentation it said 10w 30 which i believe is a lil thick isnt it 5w 30

I run 10w 30 in the summer and 5w 30 in the winter.

 

[.RaMpAgE.]

but wouldnt a rod bearing oil prx light be on all the time at idle ?? ive spun a bearing before in my prelude i used to have had to replace the engine that was expensive getting it from *** knocking and oil prx line was on all the time

 

[Ishodu]

When the rod bearings get worn the clearance increases between the crank and the rod. When the oil heats up it gets thinner. The thinner oil is able to flow out the clearance space easier. This will give a low oil pressure light.

 

[.RaMpAgE.]

aw true gaw mmm..

 

[Brett]

aw true gaw mmm..

Rod bearings suck, tedious, under the car, a bit spooky seeing as ur engines life rests in ur hands. But, its still better then having to buy another car to get u to washington.

In short, it does suck to have to spend the money and time on it, but its CHEAP, cheap insurance for what could happen.

 

[SuperHO]

sounds like a 60k might be in order, too. that and stop idling for so long...

 

[.RaMpAgE.]

how long does it take?? only thing i havent done is the cam seals and valve cover gasket besides the rod bearings

replaced water pump cam sensor crank sensor ign module sparks wires all belts including timing belt water pump

 

[Devon]

if it moves a lot real fast you may not have much watter in the block to cool it even if there is watter in the over flow tank.

I have seen the needle go up fast and then back down and up in just a few seconds, I think in those cases steam is being belched up past the temp censor, and the needle move up quickly for a moment, then comes back down, also if you run like that the temp will read a bit hotter than it should on average I think.

any way if you add coolant to the radiator directly (not the coolant tank) you should see a difference if this is your problem.

 

[Devon]

after you change the watter pump did you run the engine wile filling the radiator (not the coolant tank) to make sure you worked all the air out of the coolant system.
because if you just topped it off with the engine off and then went from there you may not have enough coolant in the Radiator. when the engine is cool enough open the radiator cap and see if there is coolant up to the top of the radiator, if not you need to add more.