So put the original ccrm back in...and the pcm from the 94 will work with it?
I have the SHO ghost smh
- Thread starter SHOYAY
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Continuity between harness plug and battery...where is harness plug located?The O2 sensor light going on and off on a pretty regular interval is how a bad sensor behaves, failure to detect switching. Since we've been switching sensors here and haven't rectified the problem, one might instead look at what else could cause such a fault.
Having other engine management missing and setting codes and illuminating the CEL will aggravate our diagnosis. We wish the ECU was aware of your non-EGR. When the EGR is commanded opened and closed, the computer can discover something is up, because it can sense even the non-response in the fuel mixture and RPMs just from having the small intake passage port plugged up. Expecting EGR could upset the learned fuel trim mapping.
Since it continues to have O2 sensor issues (rather than perhaps actually "running lean") I would ensure the harness circuits at the connector to both O2 sensors are working with a multimeter before going to more drastic measures:
1 - power from 15A fuse #5 under the dash, +12V key-on power that heats the sensor and provides reference voltage (Pink/Orange); (you would notice a fuse out, since this also runs VAPS, part of EATC, multi-function switch turn signals, defrost button control.)
2 - ground - On the three-wire sensor, O2 sensor ground is on the harness under the center of the intake manifold (black); check for continuity between harness plug and battery;
3 - continuity of "HO2S" harness wires from o2 sensors back to ECU connector. Red/black at ECU pin 29, and dark blue/light green at pin 43.
See the harness connector diagram pinouts below for ground, "ign run" 12+, and sensor pins.
NoSlo
SHO Owner
I'm talking about the connector that the O2 sensor plugs into, both in front of and behind the middle. You're unplugging the sensor, and testing with a multimeter in "ohms" that each of the pins and their wires has an unbroken connection back to their respective 1) 12v power, 2) ground, 3) ECU
they should both be label X2J
NoSlo
SHO Owner
Not his original with California emissions. post #29.
Since he deleted EGR, the X2J is actually a better option. The CCRM, however, is specific to the wiring harness and year of car.
Greg Millard
Member
You didn't mention long ago that you had modified factory emissions control devices on your vehicle.
Tampering with the exhaust changes the resonant frequency, port velocities and timing, gas scavenging, backpressure vs vacuum during valve overlap, etc, which alters the exhaust gasses left in the cylinder vs intake charge at different RPM.
All those fancy pipes on the top of the engine work in conjunction with the pipes on the other side of the combustion chamber, and a computer, that knows how it is supposed to behave, injecting a particular amount of fuel and measuring the resulting stochiometry needed for catalyst activation.
Greg Millard
Member
An excellent piece of advice - these are very complex systems with many interdependent components which are best left functioning in situ unless you understand their purpose and interdependency. Having owned an 89 and thena 92 from new I just re-entered the SHO ownership circle with a very nice 92, retrogreg
Welcome back, post some pictures
Greg Millard
Member
Thks for the welcome - the car is in very good condition - the only suspect performer is the power steering which after 4-wheel alignment pulls slightly left - it has fr & rear anti sway bars Motorcraft high pressure has shocks & coils - replacing the wheels with nos Slicers & new Micheline w-x rated rubber - hopefully will take the edge off the harshness on rough surfaces. Might you have a suggestion for a steering upgrade ....perhaps the "police" settup or an electric system?
Sorry SHOYAY for high jacking this post, maybe it would be better to have this conversation in a new introduction post.
You got a great car, I was wondering who picked it up. See post below. You have a Gen 3 subframe swap which is supposed to be better than what the car had stock. What did the shop say for the reason its pulling to the left? Could it be the tires.
The harshness is probably due to the Aluminum subframe bushing that are installed. You also have Koni shocks so maybe you can see if the setting is turned up to the max firmness. They are adjustable with a white Koni **** at the top of the strut.
https://shoforum.com/index.php?threads/green-92.139661/
You got a great car, I was wondering who picked it up. See post below. You have a Gen 3 subframe swap which is supposed to be better than what the car had stock. What did the shop say for the reason its pulling to the left? Could it be the tires.
The harshness is probably due to the Aluminum subframe bushing that are installed. You also have Koni shocks so maybe you can see if the setting is turned up to the max firmness. They are adjustable with a white Koni **** at the top of the strut.
https://shoforum.com/index.php?threads/green-92.139661/
Greg Millard
Member
Found the valves on the struts and can confirm they are Konis in a Motorcraft can - mounted Michelin Pilots(s) on the NOS 'slicers' today ....it handles well lower steering effort but have not yet hammered it but also prefer the appearance -
Attachments
So it pulls left when you hammer on it? If you didn't have the quaife, I would have thought it could be torque steer.
NoSlo
SHO Owner
I see the tires are 205/55 - those also tend to come with load ratings less than the SHO's required 94V. I ran a set of 205/55 snow tires, and had two sidewall separations on them from potholes or such within the first season.
At a minimum, you'll need to run them at the max pressure for the max load as printed on the sidewall.
The ghost problem has been solved!!! Finally after months of frustration and tons of work. The problem turned out to be a corroded ground wire for the o2s in the engine valley. While testing for continuity on all the O2 wires, wiggle test made me discover the problem. So happy...until the next issue arises lol.
Similar threads
