I can now bleed and flush my ABS system. w00t!

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Racer X

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$52. Shipped. God I love eBay! :thumb:
P3071098.JPG
 

nkb93

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Racer X said:
$52. Shipped. God I love eBay! :thumb:

Congrats! I think that's the same one I was recently bidding on! (ending price was similar) I thought I was being sneaky by bidding at the last minute, but I got out-sneaked.. :) At least it went to a fellow SHOwner, and not for some clunky Dodge POS. I felt kinda bad bidding on it since the initial bidder had just won an auction for an ABS hydraulic unit.. so you know he REALLY needed the bleeder... oh well.

Have you tried it out yet?

I ended up purchasing the Ford ABS adapter from RCM for around $90 shipped.. didn't feel like waiting around for another Thexton to pop up on ebay.

Teves.jpg


This unit is well put together and it works easily enough.. a bit pricier than the Thexton unit, but if you can't find one on Ebay (or someone outbids you :)) then RCM has a few of the Ford bleeders left.

-Nate
 

Racer X

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nkb93 said:
Congrats! I think that's the same one I was recently bidding on! (ending price was similar) I thought I was being sneaky by bidding at the last minute, but I got out-sneaked.. :) At least it went to a fellow SHOwner, and not for some clunky Dodge POS. I felt kinda bad bidding on it since the initial bidder had just won an auction for an ABS hydraulic unit.. so you know he REALLY needed the bleeder... oh well.

Have you tried it out yet?

I ended up purchasing the Ford ABS adapter from RCM for around $90 shipped.. didn't feel like waiting around for another Thexton to pop up on ebay.

Teves.jpg


This unit is well put together and it works easily enough.. a bit pricier than the Thexton unit, but if you can't find one on Ebay (or someone outbids you :)) then RCM has a few of the Ford bleeders left.

-Nate

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...d=1,1&item=4615419116&sspagename=STRK:MEWN:IT
If this was the auction... my bad. :oops: I've been working on my sniping skills lately. :evilgrin:

I haven't used it yet; I plan to when I do my PBR caliper upgrade, since I'm flushing the system and filling with ATe Superblue.

Now, the adapter you bought, does that connect to a breakout box or does it work standalone? I almost bought that from RCM before I started looking for the Thexton 133, but I was hesitant since I didn't know either way.
 

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Racer X said:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...d=1,1&item=4615419116&sspagename=STRK:MEWN:IT
If this was the auction... my bad. :oops: I've been working on my sniping skills lately. :evilgrin:

I haven't used it yet; I plan to when I do my PBR caliper upgrade, since I'm flushing the system and filling with ATe Superblue.

Now, the adapter you bought, does that connect to a breakout box or does it work standalone? I almost bought that from RCM before I started looking for the Thexton 133, but I was hesitant since I didn't know either way.


The units from RCM can be connected to a breakout box and can be used stand alone. The breakout box is needed only for diagnostic work.
 

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n8rsk8r said:
so exactly how do these work?:corn:

For the Ford unit:

Unplug the 55-pin connector from the ABS computer (in front of the airbox) and plug it onto the Ford or Thexton ABS bleeder. Turn on the ignition Press one button to start the ABS pump running, and 20 seconds later press another button to open all the valves in the ABS hydraulic control unit. During this phase, the old fluid in the ABS pump and valve body is being cycled back to the master cylinder reservoir, also removing any air trapped in the system.

After another 20 seconds, the motor automatically stops and the valves close. Turn off the ignition, reconnect the ABS harness and bleed all four wheels as usual.

I assume the Thexton unit operates pretty much the same. With speed bleeders on all four corners, it took a little less than 20 min to completely flush the braking system, including the ABS.

-Nate
 

Racer X

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The Thexton tool is nice in that it runs that cycle automatically. I just press start, it runs the 60 second cycle, I bleed the rest of the system as normal, and I'm golden. :)
 

Markus

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I used the ford tool to replace the old fluid in the HCU with fresh fluid. First I sucked out most of old brake fluid from the master cylinder resevoir. Then I refilled the master cylinder resevoir with fresh fluid and used the tool. I repeated this 3 times.
 

n8rsk8r

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wow! That is really cool! I may have to pick one of those up also. Is that just for EEC-IV? What is great is I own the 93 sho, 91 mustang, dad has a 87 f150, and a 89 t-bird. Does it work on the obd II? Oh well if not, all our EEC-IV's willl benifit from it! Thanks for the info.:thumb:
 

Markus

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n8rsk8r said:
wow! That is really cool! I may have to pick one of those up also. Is that just for EEC-IV? What is great is I own the 93 sho, 91 mustang, dad has a 87 f150, and a 89 t-bird. Does it work on the obd II? Oh well if not, all our EEC-IV's willl benifit from it! Thanks for the info.:thumb:


The bleeding tool is for the Teves Mark IV ABS system. It can be used for some Ford, GM, and (IIRC) Chrysler vehicles. The Ford tool will connect to an EEC-IV breakout box allowing diagnosis of the ABS system on Ford vehicles. The breakout box is not required for the bleeding/flushing process.

The bleeding tool will not work on some older Fords. I don't think it can be used on your 87 F150 or on the 89 TBird. It may work on the 91 Mustang. I'm sure if you looked on some forums for the appropriate vehicles you can find out which ABS system they have.
 

Racer X

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According to the instruction sheet (which isn't in front of me at the moment), it'll do Taurus 90-95, Lincoln Town Cars around the same year range, and Continentals in the same year range. I forget the list of GM cars, and for Chrysler, it'll do the Cherokee and Grand Cherokee from 1992 and on.
 

etc1006

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Cool this is the info I've been waiting on from my post from a few weeks back. Definetly what I want to do. Mustangs that early didn't have ABS. Your 'Bird might... Dunno 'bout the F series. I know my 94 Bronco did...
 

n8rsk8r

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nevermind, my mustang is not abs, I don't know what the **** I was thinking:doh: I guess I just wrapped up in the EEC-IV. Actually though that is good, cause I was wondering about my truck 1999 S10. THanks again for the info.
 

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Okay, so if I read that right, it pushes all the fluid back into the resivoir. So, how do you prevent that from over flowing? Do you bleed everything out first, then run this, and re-bleed until its empty?
 

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SinisterSHO said:
Okay, so if I read that right, it pushes all the fluid back into the resivoir. So, how do you prevent that from over flowing? Do you bleed everything out first, then run this, and re-bleed until its empty?


The tool cycles fluid from the master cylinder resevoir to the HCU and back to the resevoir. Fluid never overflows the master cylinder resevoir. Think of the tool like your car's waterpump - it cycles coolant thriughout the engine while keeping all the coolant contained. The reason I sucked old fluid out of the resevoir and replaced it with fresh fluid before using the tool is because I wanted to replace all the fluid in the HCU. If you don't do this (remove and replace fluid) then you are only bleeding air (if there is any) out of the HCU.
 

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I would like to add all new fluid to my car when I add my cobra brakes. Would what I posted be the easiest way?
 

dantheman68

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yeah, how does it actually flush out the entire system... do you remove the old fluid from the master cylinder and then add the new stuff then run the tool?

how does the fluid in the lines/ABS pump/calipers get out? is that just standard bleeding procedure?
 

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dantheman68 said:
yeah, how does it actually flush out the entire system... do you remove the old fluid from the master cylinder and then add the new stuff then run the tool?

how does the fluid in the lines/ABS pump/calipers get out? is that just standard bleeding procedure?


If you follow the procedure in one of my previous posts in this thread you'll end up with all new fluid in the HCU and in the master cylinder resevoir. After that you bleed the brakes in the normal manner. The idea is to to keep bleeding each brake line until the fluid coming out of the bleeder screw is clear. At that point all the fluid in your brake system is new; the old fluid has been flushed out.
 
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