How to spot a bad coil?

[Mr Anonymous]

Dear Mr No Picture, not trying to hijack the thread but didn't you and others mention a "ghost misfire" condition that happened relating to the X-Cal ? can't remember the details now.
Before I got my tuner I had zero problems , but a few weeks after installing it I noticed a slight miss at idle which seems to be getting worse. but it seems* to go away once its nice n warm. wondering is this is what you were talking about before and if so anything I can do ? I don't wanna just start swapping coils, though its not quite bad enough yet to do anything. I also developed an SES that I need to go have read since my moronic **** doesn't have a code reader : )

What Paul said, it's an issue with the SCT tune, and it's only at cold idle usually so it's just one of those things you either learn to live with or keep tweaking until its gone.

 

[crixtopher]

With my Xcal2 tuner and the Advantage software I richened up the mixture. On the cold fuel and spark tables I went back to stock. Took most of the miss a way.

Try disconnecting the battery to see if the miss gets better.

thanks Paul I'll try it this weekend and report back

 

[crixtopher]

What Paul said, it's an issue with the SCT tune, and it's only at cold idle usually so it's just one of those things you either learn to live with or keep tweaking until its gone.

I guess so Chris, and heres to hoping its only that and not bad rear coils > >

 

[Ict_Lx]

You have to listen very carefully for the misfire cadence.

Since most misfires from weak coils are intermittent, after you disconnect each coil/injector, you need to listen for a bit to see if you can still hear the intermittent miss underneath the steady miss you have just induced. When you can no longer hear the skipping in the background, then you have identified the cylinder in question.

I'll do that tomorrow morning. Thanks again.

 

[Ict_Lx]

Definitely sounds like a coil to me. They tend to go bad after being handled like during a cam weld or a plug change.

Might as well replace the rear 4 all at the same time so you don't have to do the job more than once. Murray's has got the coils for ~$60.

And while you're at it you might as well get a code reader. Consider it an investment. Every Ford owner should have one.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46030
http://www.autobarn.net/eqobdiicodre.html
http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3352
http://www.actron.com/whats_new_detail.php?id=20

Bought the cheapy from Harbor Freight for $39. It didn't pull anything though. Says it has to have a light so I'm guessing it doesn't do pending codes. Oh well, $39 for a code reader is cheap enough that it doesn't bother me too much. Plus it'll work on my other Taurus and my parents Town & Country.

 

[nik97]

Bought the cheapy from Harbor Freight for $39. It didn't pull anything though. Says it has to have a light so I'm guessing it doesn't do pending codes. Oh well, $39 for a code reader is cheap enough that it doesn't bother me too much. Plus it'll work on my other Taurus and my parents Town & Country.

Ehh, you can bet on needing that sucker sooner or later.

 

[crixtopher]

thanks Paul I'll try it this weekend and report back

so far it does seem to have lessened the stuttering.

 

[SHOZ123]

I woul imagine it would get better then gradually get back to the way it was.

 

[crixtopher]

I woul imagine it would get better then gradually get back to the way it was.

so I have two "green acres" methods now.

when my AL SFBs start to creak in my floor pan I spray lubricant on them and it goes away for almost a whole week (lol)

and now when my 'seems like a misfire/not really a misfire' acts up I'l just disconnect the battery neg term , haha

 

[SHOZ123]

I used some silicone to "glue" my AlSFBs in and have never heard a pop or squeek out of them.

 

[crixtopher]

I used some silicone to "glue" my AlSFBs in and have never heard a pop or squeek out of them.

when I get off my lazy **** and take em out thatsa what I'll do. that or some rubber inner tube material sandwiched in there.
silicone as in caulk ?

 

[SHOZ123]

Yes as in RTV. On the top

I also goober up the bolt and areas of the center bushing part that is in contact with the steel subframe using Kopper Koat. This is a copper based corrosion inhibitor like regular nickel based anti-seize. But the stuff will not wash off.

 

[Ict_Lx]

I pulled all of the back injectors and the front ones that I could reach. In the last day or so I've noticed that the idle has gotten alot better. It has be quite a bit colder the last couple days though so maybe that has something to do with it. I guess I'll just wait until i get a CEL. Thanks for all of the help with this.