How to get Crank Off

[Off Road SHO]

The problem with having the motor out of the car is not so much being able to keep the crank from turning (I'll describe how later), but more of how to keep the entire motor from rolling around on the garage floor when you use the slow (relatively) method of a breaker bar plus cheater (like SHOAZ stated) versus the fast hits with an impact wrench.

First, stop the crank from rotating. Use a small piece of chain to anchor one of the pressure plate bolts to any place on the cast iron block that is nearby and won't be damaged by the tightening chain. You can even throw a bolt in one of the tranny mount holes and wrap the chain around the bolt.

Second, use a breaker bar and cheater pipe of sufficient length so as to not need a lot of force. If engine is sitting on the garage floor, tie the front of the intake manifold ( the side that would be closest to the radiator) to some immovable object (bumper of another car in gear or park). You can now apply slightly increasing pressure on the cheater bar equipped breaker with a 3/4" or 19mm six point socket attached.

The key is leverage applied to an immovable engine.

Tom

 

[pjtoledo]

The problem with having the motor out of the car is not so much being able to keep the crank from turning (I'll describe how later), but more of how to keep the entire motor from rolling around on the garage floor when you use the slow (relatively) method of a breaker bar plus cheater (like SHOAZ stated) versus the fast hits with an impact wrench.

First, stop the crank from rotating. Use a small piece of chain to anchor one of the pressure plate bolts to any place on the cast iron block that is nearby and won't be damaged by the tightening chain. You can even throw a bolt in one of the tranny mount holes and wrap the chain around the bolt.

Second, use a breaker bar and cheater pipe of sufficient length so as to not need a lot of force. If engine is sitting on the garage floor, tie the front of the intake manifold ( the side that would be closest to the radiator) to some immovable object (bumper of another car in gear or park). You can now apply slightly increasing pressure on the cheater bar equipped breaker with a 3/4" or 19mm six point socket attached.

The key is leverage applied to an immovable engine.

Tom

A medium sized double box end wrench over both bolts works great, and in both directions too.

On an aside, stay away from the crank bolts for this. They are close to the center of rotation so 100 pounds of force at the end of a long wrench is multiplied and you may wind up with 1000 pounds of force at the crank bolts!!!!!! And yes, they do bend.

Perry

 

[pjtoledo]

WTF is a "poor man's impact"?

It is something that must be done very carefully. I use a 10" offset boxed end wrench,,NOT A SOCKET!!!! and an 18" piece of hardwood. A wrench gives you 100% rotational force on the head of the bolt. A socket gives you some down force, as well as rotational force. Remember all those vector calculations??? A socket will try to pop off with the "down" part of the force. Pretension the wrench with a bungie cord, and tie something around it to limit its flight!!!!! It helps if an assistant holds something against the wrench/bolt to keep the wrench on the bolt. The most I've ever needed was three whacks.

The key is to get a wrench that fits the bolt perfectly, not wedged on as it hits the pulley. The crank doesn't need to be held, it's inertia won't respond to a fast whack. It may turn a little, just re-position the wrench.

I've done several this way on an engine stand.

Perry

 

[60kmaintenance]

Well it's a good thing most quality tools have a life time warrenty!

 

[Mels]

It is something that must be done very carefully. I use a 10" offset boxed end wrench,,NOT A SOCKET!!!! and an 18" piece of hardwood. A wrench gives you 100% rotational force on the head of the bolt. A socket gives you some down force, as well as rotational force. Remember all those vector calculations??? A socket will try to pop off with the "down" part of the force. Pretension the wrench with a bungie cord, and tie something around it to limit its flight!!!!! It helps if an assistant holds something against the wrench/bolt to keep the wrench on the bolt. The most I've ever needed was three whacks.
The key is to get a wrench that fits the bolt perfectly, not wedged on as it hits the pulley. The crank doesn't need to be held, it's inertia won't respond to a fast whack. It may turn a little, just re-position the wrench.

I've done several this way on an engine stand.

Perry

Wow, I guess I was wrong. Perry DOES whack it off

I haven't had to get to mine yet, and had the mental image of a crank pulley that was too deep to allow the use of a box-end wrench (from my old Oldsmobile days). Your approach makes perfect sense Perry, thanks for the tip.

 

[stockblue95mtx]

Another option is to make a bar to hold the crank. My engine was on the suspender and the starter long since removed. I made one from a piece of channel by burning a hole (could be drilled) for the pilot and then drilling a hole for a flywheel bolt to be inserted. Then just hold this bar while using your long breaker bar and cheater. By the way, if the head is rounded the Craftsman Bolt-Out worked the first time as advised by several members.
StockBlue95MTX