How to do an oil change

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Bank of SHO

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After learning how to do a front end 60k and and a clutch service 2 1/2 times, I'm ready to take the next step-an oil change. wink Nope, never did one before.

Already purchased Castrol GTX. Use 5 quarts, or a little more?

Which filters are good to use, and how should they be installed? Worried about being too tight or worse, too loose. Is an oil filter wrench recommended?

Okay, so I'm denser than the offspring of cousins from Arkansas.

Thanks.
 

Machspeed

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I use 5 qts. of gtx, a motorcraft filer, and a generic oil filter wrench that works great. Remeber to coat the filter gasket with oil.
 

davidcope

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FYI, My 93 MTX took around 5.5 quarts of Castrol GTX. I don't know about the different brands of oil filters, I just used a Purolator one I got from work. General rule of thumb for oil filters is, spin it until the gasket hits the block, then tighten it 3/4 to 1 turn, that's all the tighter it needs to be.
 

MOSHO92

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Changing the oil on a SHO isnt much different from any other vehicle... If you can do a 60K and clutch job, you can do the oil change.

Have some confidence in yourself and just go out there and try it. Just double check everything, and make sure that there is oil in the engine before you run it. Oh and check for leaks a whole bunch of times.

If you really need a write up, I'm sure that and search engine (Yahoo, Google) will yield more than enough results to get you started.

Have fun!
 

Dr. Tweak

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davidcope:
FYI, My 93 MTX took around 5.5 quarts of Castrol GTX. I don't know about the different brands of oil filters, I just used a Purolator one I got from work. General rule of thumb for oil filters is, spin it until the gasket hits the block, then tighten it 3/4 to 1 turn, that's all the tighter it needs to be.
Be careful though, I have had the oil filter on my SHO come loose and start leaking oil after doing the above. This last time I pretty much tightened it as much as I could with one hand (within reason).
 

NotSoSlowSHO

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No, your oil change guide says:

Items Needed
5 quarts of oil and a new oil filter
Oil drain pan
Jack and two jackstands
17mm wrench or socket wrench
Funnel
Plastic grocery bag
Oil filter wrench (not always needed)
 

Bizzy

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but wait my car take 7 qts, so youir oilchange guide doesn't copver 100% of the SHO's out there. Lance Chaney's SHO takes prolly the same as mine.

Plus I use a Dodge Ram 5.9 turbo diesel filter on my car :)
 

Dr. Tweak

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lol that's why it says to check the oil level after you're done...

I want to get one of those nice Amsoil double filter relocation kits... ****

And shut up, you're just trying get back at me for the cold dead fingers comment!!! rofl

<small>[ March 23, 2004, 03:05 AM: Message edited by: JDLangevin ]</small>
 

Bizzy

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JDLangevin:
lol that's why it says to check the oil level after you're done...

I want to get one of those nice Amsoil double filter relocation kits... ****

And shut up, you're just trying get back at me for the cold dead fingers comment!!! rofl
Personally I am thinking aobut getting rid of the dual filter relocation kit. I want to relocate my full flow filter and use a huge filter (filter = more media = less backpressure on the oiling system means more potential for flow) and then tap into an oil passage after the filter for runnig a line to a stand alone bypass filter. That way I can have a bypass filter that is always functioning, without causing any restrictions to the full flow side of the oiling system. I really want to do something like that for when I build up a completely frest 3.2 for the fall, I mean with new rings and all that I wantsome beefy filtering going on.

The AMSoil dual remote system has a valve in it to create a bit of a pressure drop to force oil thru the bypass filter. While I don't think the 3-4 PSI less than I should see at 4k rpm was a problem, I like now having better oil pressure at lower RPMs, the only reason I left it on there (with a nice new Supertech ST8A filter and a Supertech Dodge Turbo Diesel filter, is becauwse of the capacity and ease of a filter change, I can change the filters with the car on the ground :)
 

Dr. Tweak

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When you get that set up I'm going to have to come down and check it out... speaking of which, are you still going to swap in a 3.2 and then later put in a new one, or are you just going to do the new on in the fall?

*Thread Officially Highjacked*

<small>[ March 23, 2004, 03:24 AM: Message edited by: JDLangevin ]</small>
 

Bizzy

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Yeah I'm gonna be doing a 3.2 for the car for the summer, then building up a different 3.2 over the fall/winter. The latter 3.2 will be custom rod's and pistons, raised compression, possibly stroked (a little) bored out to about 3.3, ported 3.0 heads, perhaps valves, gabless rings, ceramic coated piston tops, valve faces, and combustion chamber, dry film lubricants applied to cams, shims, rod bearings, crank, valve stems and springs. Oil sheding coatings will be applied to the parts of the crank that are not in firctional contact with anything, and with the backs of the pistons.

But that will all take place when/if I end up moving to Nashville.

<small>[ March 23, 2004, 09:17 AM: Message edited by: netviper ]</small>
 

SHOZ123

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One of the problems with the V6 is the filter will spill oil all over the starter when you take it off. Some good foresighted engineering there. Anyway you can really minimize this but it take some time.

It is best to drain the oil pan when the oil is hot. But if you let the car sit overnight then take the filter off very little oil will spill out. So drain the pan when the car is hot. Refill the sump but do not start the motor. After a few hours then take the filter off.

Also you can pre-fill the filter with at least a half a quart of oil. This will reduce the time you are running on 0 lbs pressure when you first start the motor and fill the oil filter.
 

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