How do I get to my Blend Door Actuator??

[jonysho]

My heater only partially works and I have narrowed it down to the blend door actuator. But I need instructions on how to get to it and approx. how long it will take to get to it. Thanx, any help is appreciated. I need it quick to because I am leaving in two days for Seattle and will be needing my heater badly.

 

[jelloslug]

The BDA is the biggest PITA short of replacing the heater core. You have to pull the dash to get to it. I would also remove the front seats and center console to make more room to work.

If you look in the center of the picture the bundle of orange and red wires is where the BDA is at. Taking the dash out of the car is not required (or recomended if it can be helped).

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

be sure to relace the heater core while you are in there.

You DO NOT want to tear the dash apart twice, do you?

 

[projectSHO89]

There is a BIG difference in the amount of extra work required to replace the core as compared to the BDA.

I wouldn't do it.

Also, you do NOT have to remove the seats and the center console. Just drop the steering column to the floor, then pull the dash back to get access to the BDA (sounds easier than it actually is).

I hope your diagnosis is correct. I'd hate to heare any complaints day after tomorrow if the BDA replacement didn't fix your heating problems.

Steve

 

[ckinart]

After the above replies, I'm not sure you're going to be taking this job on any time soon, but I posted some info regarding blend door actuator removal here, FYI.

 

[Shoaz]

BTW, my BDA is still in the process of failing, despite my hopes for salvation after installing a new battery. I'll likely bite the bullet and take it to the local dealer, but it is definitely a $$ and personal time tradeoff.

 

[jonysho]

My blend door has not fully failed yet, it will go to the cold position and partially warm but it will not get all the way hot. Will an actuator only work partially or is there some other culprit it might be. My heater core is fine and my EATC unit is fine, I even swapped it out to make sure of it. Are there any other suggestions O all knowing ones? wink

 

[jonysho]

Also some one on here once said that you could get to it by pulling only the glove box and the radio unit. Is this true? If so exactly what do I pull? Short cuts ARE NICE!!

 

[projectSHO89]

jonysho:
Also some one on here once said that you could get to it by pulling only the glove box and the radio unit. Is this true? If so exactly what do I pull? Short cuts ARE NICE!!

Must have been talking about something else. No shortcuts for replacing the BDA..

As for diagnosis, make sure you have run the EATC self test. If you get an "02" code, then there is something the EATC doesn't like about the BDA circuit.

Steve

 

[Shoaz]

jonysho:
My blend door has not fully failed yet, it will go to the cold position and partially warm but it will not get all the way hot. Will an actuator only work partially or is there some other culprit it might be. My heater core is fine and my EATC unit is fine, I even swapped it out to make sure of it. Are there any other suggestions O all knowing ones? wink

I'd run the self test before getting too far into this, as what you are describing are not the classic symptoms of a BDA failure. Usually when the BDA fails it goes full hot, and then the "thump of death" as the EATC computer bashes it on the head once a second to try to get it to cooperate.

Run the self-test by pressing OFF and FLOOR together, and then AUTOMATIC within two seconds...(I *think* that's right, I just ran it a couple of days ago). It takes a while to run the self test. If it says 000 (no faults) or anything but 2, it may be something else. The code for BDA failure is 2, as Steve pointed out.

I think the water temp needs to be at least 120F for the self-test to run correctly, so do this with a warm engine.

 

[91 SHOplus]

Be sure to check #17 fuse BEFORE pulling the dash... squint