I am doing a project that is using the 3.4 in another vehicle, and I don't need and would like to remove/eliminate both the power steering pump and the AC compressor. Any suggestions on how to deal with the serpentine belt without the above mentioned items? I suppose I could create "dummy" idler pullies and mount them in their place, but the whole idea is to get the engine as cleaned up as possible.
How can I eliminate the following...
- Thread starter rnddude
- Start date
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SuperHO
Mental Patient
Find a shorter belt? I don't know if the A/C compressor's structual like it is on the V6, but I think sourcing a shorter belt, possibly going with slightly different routing, would be your best bet.
Now that that silly shit's out of the way, what are you swapping it into, and where's the pics????
Now that that silly shit's out of the way, what are you swapping it into, and where's the pics????
Johnlemon
New Member
on the v8 the ac compressor pulley is on the far right (3), power steering pump is 1
reroute a shorter belt from the crankshaft pulley over (instead of under) the idler pulley, and hopefully it'll have enough grip on it
reroute a shorter belt from the crankshaft pulley over (instead of under) the idler pulley, and hopefully it'll have enough grip on it
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luigisho
SHO Member
Like was stated, if you remove those items you take some string around the revised belt path and find a belt for the new length. Hopefully you will get enough tension to make it work.
Johnlemon
New Member
like this
luigisho
SHO Member
Couldn't you even eliminate idler pulley #2?
St Louis SHO
Rollin' coal
and number 9.
Mr Anonymous
Tire Wall
That won't work because the tensioner tensions in the other direction.like this
The A/C compressor can be completely removed and bypassed (I've done it).
The P/S pump you can probably do it but you may need to go with a larger or smaller pulley on one of the three idlers in order to resolve any clearance issues. You can run the ribbed side of the belt on the smooth idlers no problem as well (again, something I did when I bypassed the A/C).
number nine, number nine, number nine.....
Johnlemon
New Member
I should have posted the second part earlier
and I totally forgot about the tensioner direction
and I totally forgot about the tensioner direction
bacernate
97 MONEY PIT
You might check into some idlers off a vw, they are ribbed on both sides as are the belts. So no smooth side would have it's benefits.
OK, how about this routing....starting at the crankshaft pulley #5 (wrapped normally),
traveling counter-clockwise to idler pulley #2 (wrapped opposite normal, over the top), traveling to idler pulley #8 (wrapped opposite normal, over the top),
traveling to alternator pulley #7 (wrapped normally),
traveling to tensioner pulley #6 (wrapped normally),
traveling to idler pulley #9 (wrapped normally),
traveling back to the crankshaft pulley #5.
Remove/eliminate the ac compressor #3 and the power steering pump #1.
Tensioner would work normally.
Johnlemmon, could you update your drawing to reflect? Any comments?
traveling counter-clockwise to idler pulley #2 (wrapped opposite normal, over the top), traveling to idler pulley #8 (wrapped opposite normal, over the top),
traveling to alternator pulley #7 (wrapped normally),
traveling to tensioner pulley #6 (wrapped normally),
traveling to idler pulley #9 (wrapped normally),
traveling back to the crankshaft pulley #5.
Remove/eliminate the ac compressor #3 and the power steering pump #1.
Tensioner would work normally.
Johnlemmon, could you update your drawing to reflect? Any comments?
OK, I am documenting the build, I will be posting pics when I am a bit farther along. The tentative project name is "Frankentruck" and will consist of the following:
1953 F100 pickup body, stretched 10" longitudinally. This required two truck cabs and sets of doors to accomplish. Front suspension will be a lowered mustang II style IFS with air bags and manual rack. Frame will be custom fabricated using 2 x 6 rec tube.
The Gen3 V8 engine/transmission/subframe will be installed IN THE REAR, ala Porsche, yielding a IRS. The steering rack will be removed and the steering link arms pinned to the frame via heim joints. The struts will also be removed and replaced with upper A-arms. The stock lower arms/links will be retained. the rear will be suspended/sprung via a pushrod system to remote air spring/shocks. Because the front end will now be so light, a manual steering rack is sufficient, thus the desire to eliminate the PS pump. AC? who needs AC!!!! getting rid of the AC compressor too.
I'm still up in the air on whether to put the radiator in the front of the truck or in the bed/engine area. More to come....
Mr Anonymous
Tire Wall
Without having a motor in front of me I suspect you're going to have to go with larger pullies on idlers 8 and 2, and/or a smaller pulley on idler 9. The problem I see is that they are so close to being in the same plane that once you start trying to pass a belt by in close proximity they're going to touch. Next time I'm at the shop I'll see if I can mock something up and take a picture.
Well, there is good news. I have the engine/trans/subframe out of the vehicle, so it is pretty easy to check the belt routing options. What I discovered is that the flat-surface idler pullies and the grooved tensioner pulley are directly interchangeable...same centerline, same bearings. Also, the #2 & #8 idler pulleys are located sufficently above the #9 center idler that there would be no interference between the belt as they pass near each other in this routing scheme. So what I have done is order two grooved tensioner/idler pullies from autopartswarehouse.com to replace the two upper smooth idlers, which will allow having the belt grooves riding in a grooved pulley in those two locations. This should guarantee good belt tracking and improve belt life. All that remains is to recieve and install these two pulleys, and then try to determine a correct belt length. I have already stripped off the PS pump and the AC compressor, which cleans up the engine nicely. Those perfectly good parts are up for grabs, BTW.
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OK, good news, bad news. The supposed-to-be grooved idler pulleys I ordered arrived, but were not grooved as the catalog photo indicated, but were the smooth idlers instead. I was trying for the pulley that is used on the tensioner. Now in doing forum searches is seems I am getting nowhere in finding this item. Can anyone here help me with part numbers/sources? How about used ones?
My 97 has 3 smooth, rigid-mount idlers, and the smaller pulley on the tensioner is grooved, and that is the one I want to get two more of. The smooths work fine in the stock application because they contact the back (smooth) side of the belt, whereas the tensioner pulley (grooved) contacts the ribbed side of the belt. In my altered routing scheme described above, I want to replace the two upper smooth pulleys with two grooved pulleys, because the new routing has the belt ribs in contact with the two upper pulleys, and I would be much more comfortable with those being grooved than smooth, for tracking and belt life reasons. Once again, if anyone has 2 grooved pulleys from the tensioner available, I am very interested.
Phoenix
SHOHOLIC
I dont know if this is any help , but Ive done this on the V6 , eliminating mostly everything.
The bracket came off ebay , its for a SBC (small block chevy) of the old days.
I only had to modify it a bit. Using the alternator to bind it.
The bracket came off ebay , its for a SBC (small block chevy) of the old days.
I only had to modify it a bit. Using the alternator to bind it.
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