shogansta
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okay so im going to get a 60 gallon compressor and how should i prime and the most important question would a gallon of paint be good? or enough!
HMM paint Job! can anyone help?
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n8rsk8r
Hey Where's my post?
best to ask the paint rep what is needed, amount wise.
Venom SHO s7
New Member
I second what jelloslug said about the prep,
Dont go to bare metal, you're making a lot of unnecessary work for yourself and you'll be removing the factory rustproof.
heres a few random tips that should help you out
-only prime areas that need to be primed (areas that have body work done obviously, anything with a 240 scratch or coarser, bare metal..)
-If it's the factory paint and no body work is done, that area doesnt need to be primed, you can DA it with 400 grit or simply scuff it red with Scotch-brite)
-when you're blocking the primer or wet sanding, use guide-coat; itll help you block the panel straighter.
Long strokes will make it straighter vs using short strokes
-remember, always hold the DA flat! or youll 'dig a hole' in your panel and eventhough you might not see it right away, you'll def see it when you lay down color and especially clear.
Dont go to bare metal, you're making a lot of unnecessary work for yourself and you'll be removing the factory rustproof.
heres a few random tips that should help you out
-only prime areas that need to be primed (areas that have body work done obviously, anything with a 240 scratch or coarser, bare metal..)
-If it's the factory paint and no body work is done, that area doesnt need to be primed, you can DA it with 400 grit or simply scuff it red with Scotch-brite)
-when you're blocking the primer or wet sanding, use guide-coat; itll help you block the panel straighter.
Long strokes will make it straighter vs using short strokes
-remember, always hold the DA flat! or youll 'dig a hole' in your panel and eventhough you might not see it right away, you'll def see it when you lay down color and especially clear.
shogansta
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Okay so i sand with 240 then paint? or do i sand with 240 then prime then paint and also does the paint you buy come with clear coat or do you apply it seperate?!
Venom SHO s7
New Member
It all depends on what shape the panel is, but heres a quick walkthrough; If the panel needs body work...
1)first of all, all body filler (aka bondo) must be applied to bare metal.period.
that means that you have to grind off (36 or 40 grit is ok) the paint before body filler or filler glaze is applied.
2) block the body filler using a long board and 80grit paper (again, use guide coat to make sure you have no low spots in your work)
3)after bodyfiller work is done, DA the sorrounding area of your work with 240 grit, then feather edge the 240 with some 320 grit
4)if the rest of that panel doesnt need further work; just scuff the rest of the panel with red scotch-brite
5)NOW apply your primer; NOTE that some paint companies (dupont for example) recommends you use etching primer on bare metal areas, then to use primer filler on top of that, while others like sherwin williams go straight to primer filler.
6)when spraying your primer, spray it only a few inches over the work area.The whole panel doesnt need to be primered unless deep scratches need to be filled in.
apply 3 to 4 medium-wet coats. This is because you want to make sure all the deep scratches get filled in, and because alot of that primer will get blocked off so you want some breathing room rather than having to reprimer.
read instructions on your primer, 4hrs is about average dry time before you can dry sand
7) mist some black guide coat over primer, and using a durablock sanding block and 320 paper, block off your work area in long smooth strokes, use horizontal, slight diagonal and some vertical strokes to make sure your panel is straight.
8) now using a more flexible wet sanding block, wet sand your primer. Make sure you get a nice fether edge where your primer ends, any hard lines will shop up in your work if you dont, or much worse, cause fish eyes and your paint to crack.
9)after all the guide coat is went sanded off, you sholuld be ready to use a clean shop towel with wax&grease remover to clean off the panel, then use a tack cloth to wipe of all dust, and are now ready to spray your sealer, color, and clear.
If no body work is needed, but there are deep scratches or imperfections in the paint..
1) DA imperfections with 400 paper
2)scotchbrite the rest of the panel
3)wipe clean, tack off
4)seal, color, clear.
If no work is needed at all..
1)scotchbrite
2)wipe clean, tack off... you know the rest
Single stage paint is what youre refering to, it doesnt need clear because it can be buffed to a shine.
Base coat/clear coat paint however is whats used on any descent shop and what cars come with from the factory. The base coat is the actual color, and the clear is applied after the base coat is allowed to flash (semi dry). Its higher gloss and lasts longer.
remember, 90% will depend on the prep work, 10% will be actual spraying of color/clear
hope that helps.
1)first of all, all body filler (aka bondo) must be applied to bare metal.period.
that means that you have to grind off (36 or 40 grit is ok) the paint before body filler or filler glaze is applied.
2) block the body filler using a long board and 80grit paper (again, use guide coat to make sure you have no low spots in your work)
3)after bodyfiller work is done, DA the sorrounding area of your work with 240 grit, then feather edge the 240 with some 320 grit
4)if the rest of that panel doesnt need further work; just scuff the rest of the panel with red scotch-brite
5)NOW apply your primer; NOTE that some paint companies (dupont for example) recommends you use etching primer on bare metal areas, then to use primer filler on top of that, while others like sherwin williams go straight to primer filler.
6)when spraying your primer, spray it only a few inches over the work area.The whole panel doesnt need to be primered unless deep scratches need to be filled in.
apply 3 to 4 medium-wet coats. This is because you want to make sure all the deep scratches get filled in, and because alot of that primer will get blocked off so you want some breathing room rather than having to reprimer.
read instructions on your primer, 4hrs is about average dry time before you can dry sand
7) mist some black guide coat over primer, and using a durablock sanding block and 320 paper, block off your work area in long smooth strokes, use horizontal, slight diagonal and some vertical strokes to make sure your panel is straight.
8) now using a more flexible wet sanding block, wet sand your primer. Make sure you get a nice fether edge where your primer ends, any hard lines will shop up in your work if you dont, or much worse, cause fish eyes and your paint to crack.
9)after all the guide coat is went sanded off, you sholuld be ready to use a clean shop towel with wax&grease remover to clean off the panel, then use a tack cloth to wipe of all dust, and are now ready to spray your sealer, color, and clear.
If no body work is needed, but there are deep scratches or imperfections in the paint..
1) DA imperfections with 400 paper
2)scotchbrite the rest of the panel
3)wipe clean, tack off
4)seal, color, clear.
If no work is needed at all..
1)scotchbrite
2)wipe clean, tack off... you know the rest
Single stage paint is what youre refering to, it doesnt need clear because it can be buffed to a shine.
Base coat/clear coat paint however is whats used on any descent shop and what cars come with from the factory. The base coat is the actual color, and the clear is applied after the base coat is allowed to flash (semi dry). Its higher gloss and lasts longer.
remember, 90% will depend on the prep work, 10% will be actual spraying of color/clear
hope that helps.
shogansta
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Most of the body is straight so no body work needed the car has its original paint so all i do is scotchbrite clean and thats it then paint with STAGE ONE and use clear coat? i want a very beautiful shine! how do i seal what do i use to seal!
shogansta
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And also what do i need for a color change the car is painted in a werid blue i want to paint it in a diffrent color most likely toredo red or currant red!
Venom SHO s7
New Member
If the factory paint is still in descent shape, then yea you can simply scotch brite ( the point of it is to take off the clear coat shine, so that the fine scratch of the pad will help the new paint stick).
NO, single stage and base coat clear coat are two different things.
single stage is that, you spray 1 material. With BC/CC you spray the basecoat (the color) and then you apply clear coat.
Chose one depending on how much you wanna spend and how long you want it to last.
Sealer is like a primer, but it flows easier and it's meant to seal out the area from water so that your work last longer. Apply sealer on areas where you have broken into either bare metal, or areas that have work done to them. Ask your paint store rep for more details, or contact the 1800 number of the company whos products youre buying.
If you want it to shine and last longer, go basecoat clear coat over single stage.
Nothing special is needed for color change, its the same procedure, but certain colors take longer to cover over others.
NO, single stage and base coat clear coat are two different things.
single stage is that, you spray 1 material. With BC/CC you spray the basecoat (the color) and then you apply clear coat.
Chose one depending on how much you wanna spend and how long you want it to last.
Sealer is like a primer, but it flows easier and it's meant to seal out the area from water so that your work last longer. Apply sealer on areas where you have broken into either bare metal, or areas that have work done to them. Ask your paint store rep for more details, or contact the 1800 number of the company whos products youre buying.
If you want it to shine and last longer, go basecoat clear coat over single stage.
Nothing special is needed for color change, its the same procedure, but certain colors take longer to cover over others.
shogansta
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Okay there is bunch of stage one paints on ebay but where can i find basecoat clear coat?
shogansta
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So i go single stage then clearcoat then basecoat but basecoat is a paint? and how many coats should i paint the car i dont think 1 coat would be enough i guess 3 will do right?
shogansta
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And how is arylic enamel or best ? is what type of paint should i use utheranine arclic or laquer or something like that and also how many gallons of paint would i need?
Venom SHO s7
New Member
I'd suggest to hit up the libray and look through some auto body and paint books, itll help you out alot.
No.. Single Stage is one option, you use it by it self, hence the name.
Basecoat and clearcoat is the other option. You dont mix single stage with basecoat/clear coat.
Dont buy paint off ebay. Go to a wesco autobody supply or even napa has auto paintl; talk to the guys there, many times theyll actually know what thye're talking about. Id rather use a name brand paint system, like DuPont, PPG,Sherwin williams... but thats just me.
Also, dont mix products from different companies, as they're meant to wortk with products of the same company not just stuff off the shelve from other companies.
For color, 2 coats is often enough, but do enough to get complete coverage.
It seems like you're gonna need a lot of help, which is why i suggest looking at books instead. Theres just too much to learn..
You gotta use the right air pressure, reducers etc depending on what temp you're spraying in; learn to overlap your spray, how fast and how close to spray...
No.. Single Stage is one option, you use it by it self, hence the name.
Basecoat and clearcoat is the other option. You dont mix single stage with basecoat/clear coat.
Dont buy paint off ebay. Go to a wesco autobody supply or even napa has auto paintl; talk to the guys there, many times theyll actually know what thye're talking about. Id rather use a name brand paint system, like DuPont, PPG,Sherwin williams... but thats just me.
Also, dont mix products from different companies, as they're meant to wortk with products of the same company not just stuff off the shelve from other companies.
For color, 2 coats is often enough, but do enough to get complete coverage.
It seems like you're gonna need a lot of help, which is why i suggest looking at books instead. Theres just too much to learn..
You gotta use the right air pressure, reducers etc depending on what temp you're spraying in; learn to overlap your spray, how fast and how close to spray...
n8rsk8r
Hey Where's my post?
Nice write up Venom SHO s7
shogansta
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Yea i know it was so helpfull Thanks! 
I guess i have to hit the library(BOOKS SCARE ME
) 
I guess i have to hit the library(BOOKS SCARE ME
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