$hit canning the ABS

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saucy

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Has anyone ever gotten fed up with the ABS on their SHO and converted to a regular braking system. I was told that all you would need to do is replace the master cylinder and change the brake lines. Has anyone ever done this swap. If so whats involved?
 

SHOZ123

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Just pull the fuse when the key is off. Then remove the ABS warning light bulb.
 

saucy

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I've heard way too many horror storys about $1000 plus ABS bills when the sensors/computers go out. I just picked up a 94 MTX with 86k & cracked 5 speed for $1300. I figured finding a core and having it rebuilt would not be too hard. Guess again, there aren't even any cores out their because they all crack the case just like mine. Well after that disappiontint of looking for a tranny, I was messing around with it and testing out the brakes and the pedal is extremely spongey and it thumps like crazy. There is no vibration when your not braking so my first guess is the ABS. Before I sink $1000 dollars in the ABS I'd rather just get rid of it. BTW I don't want to offend people on this site but this is the first car enthusiast forum I've been on where there are more posts on how to keep the car running, engine trans, etc than actuall high performance upgrades. I love the cars, at least the way they look and what they represent, a classy, yet sporty 4 door. I always have liked them, thats why I bought one. But the more I read and research the more I start to regret getting involved. I just came across some posts about changing the rear spark plugs and it sounds like an all day job!
 

rangerj

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Saucy,

Your thumping brake peddel is far more likely to be a warped disk than the ABS. Your spongy feeling brake peddel is more likely to be air in the system, or a master cylinder that is failing.

The rear plugs are a chalenge to change, but there are cars that require that the engine be removed in order to change plugs. So what? If it were easy any idiot could do it.

There is a good deal of discussion on this forum about fixing our SHOs, but that is what this forum is about.

If you read the posts you will find a large number of the owners have made significant performance modifications to their SHOs. You can find a good discussion of performance modifications at the SHO Times web site.

Lastly, eliminating your ABS system is not a good idea for practical safety reasons, and for leagle liability reasons. rangerj
 

drivinhard

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As mentioned, just pull the fuse or unhook an ABS sensor under the hood. Again, sounds like you just need a bleed and maybe a rotor change.

I have mine disabled in my 93 beater, it's annoying in the snow (and on the track). Pretty handy for normal street driving though, especially in the wet.
 

saucy

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I hope that it is indeed something mechanical like the rotor. I passed up on a lot of good running SHO's for $3000-$3500. I'd hate to end up with that much in this one just to get it running plus my time. Changing the Tranny in this thing is not going to be pleasant. Again, no diss to the cars, I just didn't realize the amount of maintenance they require was so extensive. Guess thats the price you pay for an Exotic car. I guess I could settle for an ****** or a Cavalier.
 

SHOZ123

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When I went to Summit Point this spring for FATT they recommended that the ABS be disabled so I ran with the fuse pulled on the '97. This was so you would lock the brakes and slide into their traps when FUBARing a corner. I pulled the fuse and ran OK (except fot the last time around turn 1). :(

At the convention I had the plugs in the rear proportioning valve and it was weird feeling the ABS working on all 4 wheels but welcomed.

<small>[ October 22, 2002, 11:16 AM: Message edited by: SHOZ123 ]</small>
 

SilverSHO

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Changing the rear plugs is not nearly as hard as it looks. I did mine in about 25 minutes (taking my time) with a ratchet and 12" wobble extension. It helps if you remove the vacuum canister and bracket on the back of the intake manifold.
 

ThrillSHO

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I'm seriously considering removing the entire ABS system, hard piping everything and adding a bias control valve in the cockpit. In the class I run in, it is allowed. It will save some weight. It will allow me to adjust brake bias and as previously mentioned, ABS is not terribly helpful when trying to modulate the brakes to the limit at the track.

Planned off season mods:
Remove ABS system & add bias control valve
Remove A/C system (I'll probably regret it in July)
Remove rear seat
Add Rollbar
Replace front seats
Trim rear fenders for the new stickies (275/45s on 16x10s) thumbs_u
 

SHOGIRL1994

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My ABS "plug" caught fire 2 times the day before the drive to the convention, and one time while we were sitting in the parking at the hotel. I just unplugged it to avoid further issues. I haven't had any weird issues with NOT having it. Same for the plug that goes to my cruise control and horn. It shorted about a year ago and I haven't had cruise or a horn since. I have the extra wiring harness but haven't bothered putting it in.
 

SHOZ123

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Gee Tara, it won't be long nd you'll be peddaling like Fred Flinstone......
blueman[1].gif
 

rangerj

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Tera,

By any chance are your turn signals not operating, or is your "airbag" light on?

The horn, cruise control, turn signals, and the airbag are supplied with electricity through a "clockspring". I do not know the specifics about your model year.

You may want to check on this before you have a catastrophic failure. rangerj
 

ottosho

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since ranger brought up the airbag light in this discussion, my air bag and my anti-lock light are both on. Any ideas on easy fixes? brakes seem to work fine. Flashing lights are very annoying.
 

ottosho

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By the way, I am driving a 93 mtx, stock I suppose, but if I lay into it from a stop my tires spin uncontrollably as my front end slides from side to side. Don't hit it that hard very often, probably should get some new tires, that might help!
 

SHOGIRL1994

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Nope, I have no problems whatsoever with turn signals or lights or any warning lights coming on. I just don't have a horn, abs, or cruise.
 

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