hints for break pad replace

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Mike Compton

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All 4 break pads need replaced tonight.
I have done this on other vehicles, so not totally green at it.
My only real trouble spot is usually getting the calliper pushed back in far enough to load the new break pads in. Any ideas on an easy way to do this? Will a regular C clamp give me enough preasure to do it? I am hoping to replace the pads without having to open up the lines and then bleed the brakes.

Thanks.
 

masho95

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Mike Compton said:
All 4 break pads need replaced tonight.
I have done this on other vehicles, so not totally green at it.
My only real trouble spot is usually getting the calliper pushed back in far enough to load the new break pads in. Any ideas on an easy way to do this? Will a regular C clamp give me enough preasure to do it? I am hoping to replace the pads without having to open up the lines and then bleed the brakes.

Thanks.

I'm assuming that you mean all 4 wheels need new pads? The front caliper pistons can easily be pushed back in with a c-clamp or brake tool. The rears however need to be turned back in. You can use a generic brake cube tool to do this, but I've been informed that there is a better tool for this. Try doing a search for it and hopefully you'll be able to find out where to pick it up from.
 

Rob94

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Loosen the bleeder screw before you press (or turn for the rears) the pistons. It will make it easier to bring the piston in far enough. You won't lose much brake fluid, although some will squirt out of the bleeders.
 

reags8

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Go to AZ and get the rear brake caliper kit

I just did mine (93') and used the Auto Zone tool - its a $35 ($37.10 w/ tax) rental that you get back when you return the tool and you don't skin any knuckles like you would w/ the brake cube - Well worth the trip to AZ.



Reags
 

Shoaz

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The cubes for turning in the rear calipers work reasonably well on second gen cars like yours. They're not expensive and can be found at most auto places, Sears, etc. One trick that will make it easier is to only take one slider pin out and leave the caliper attached by the other, and just rotate the caliper out just enough to get the cube onto the piston. This gives a solid attachement to rotate against and just makes it a lot easier than trying to hold the thing with one hand and rotate it with the other (which is really difficult in my experience).

The fronts are easy, and opening the bleeder as someone else suggested makes it very easy.
 

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