ok finally got the timing all right and when i went to start it i had no fuel pressure. so i replaced my fuel pump and went to start it had no spark. so i replaced my coil pack and new plugs. so now i have fuel pressure and spark but it wont start. it just sits there and cranks. it doesnt even wanna try to start jus turns over. i need help im about to sell this thing and get it out of my life lol thanks in advance.
help!! sho wont start
- Thread starter shoftw
- Start date
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well i just changed the old spark plug a little bit ago and they were fouled and drenched with gas. but while its cranking it starts to get a strong fuel smell in the engine bay so its getting fuel into the combustion chamber
I still think your injectors are not firing. It takes 3 things to make a motor run, air, fuel, fire. you have the fire, you have no fuel. Check the ground between the heads and under the fuel rails. Other than that im not sure what other things tell the injectors to fire. Im not a expert.
SVOFANATIC
Active Member
If it smells of fuel you are getting fuel. Are you absolutely sure your timing is right? It doesn't matter how much fuel, air, and spark you get if your timing is off.
kevinspann
Don't take my advice.
Timing is wrong.
93rev2sev
SHO Member
Timing is wrong.
Either spark timing (firing order) or cam timing (timing belt).
Either spark timing (firing order) or cam timing (timing belt).
kevinspann
Don't take my advice.
I would think the firing order would have to be WAY off if it doesn't even try to start.
Bob Gervais
Wut?
+3 for timing.
riden2low
New Member
mrecoolgar
SHO NUP
I replaced the timing chain on my Nissan truck.
I matched the dark chain link to the cam gear indent as well as the crank gear indent.
It acted like you are stating.
Long story short, I had to rotate the cam gear back one tooth.
Don't know how it got off timing but it did.
I matched the dark chain link to the cam gear indent as well as the crank gear indent.
It acted like you are stating.
Long story short, I had to rotate the cam gear back one tooth.
Don't know how it got off timing but it did.
kevinspann
Don't take my advice.
It's really not that hard.
Is this a 3.0 or a 3.2? There are dots on each pulley that line up with marks on the engine, plus there are lines on the belt. Did either of the cams or crankshaft turn when you had the old belt off?
SVOFANATIC
Active Member
The only other possibility if your timing is correct would be a major fuel leak but you would see that. Just make sure you didn't accidentally turn one of the cam sprockets 180* off that will cause a no start.
vortex2450
Buying Parts...
I think your timing is off as well. Your differently getting fuel and if your getting spark at the plugs then the whole ignition system should be ok. Also check your plug routing, remember that cylinders 5 & 6 are swip swapped in the firing order. Also, did you be double sure to make sure you reconnected the CPS connectors? That would explain everything as well. If you did then I would suggest you do your timing again, it can't hurt. After doing mine a couple times I can manage to completely strip the acc. side, do my timing, and put it all back together in about 90 minutes..
my method is as follows :
Remove all spark plugs, usually one of the cams will sort of spring forward due to compression, as long as the plugs are out I found it's easy enough to use a rachet with a 10mm socket and turn the front cam gear using one of the 3 bolts holding the gear to the cam (in which ever direction needed) until it matches the other one in relative location of the notches. If your turning the cam gear more than 1/3 turn your probably going in the wrong direction or turning the wrong cam. Be careful here, it shouldn't take much effort at all.
At this point I put on the belt ( doesn't matter how you put it on at this point) and loosely tension it and turn the crank with the crank bolt and a 18mm rachet until the notches on both cams are at their respective TDC marks on the timing backing plate. Take the belt back off (cams shouldn't move now if they do just turn one that isn't at TDC back to it's mark with the ratchet again ).
Check for TDC @ cyl #1, cut a wire hanger into about a 30" straight piece, plumb said piece of wire into cyl #1 until it touches the cylinder, rotate the crank (with the belt off and the cams already lined up) until the wire is as high was it goes and then check to be sure the mark on the crank gear is in the vicinity of the notch on the block (about 5 o' clock ). Put the belt one with the lettering upside down from the point of view from the acc side of the engine, put the two line for the cams on the exact teeth they belong. Once you get the belt on you should be at either the 3.0l mark or the 3.2l mark depending on whether you have an ATX or MTX. If you did the 3.2l swap in an MTX then you want the 3.0l marks as they correspond to the timing covers used from the 3.0l.
I like to talk and help all I can, good luck!
BTW: cylinder 1 is in the rear bank closest to the pass fender..
-Josh
my method is as follows :
Remove all spark plugs, usually one of the cams will sort of spring forward due to compression, as long as the plugs are out I found it's easy enough to use a rachet with a 10mm socket and turn the front cam gear using one of the 3 bolts holding the gear to the cam (in which ever direction needed) until it matches the other one in relative location of the notches. If your turning the cam gear more than 1/3 turn your probably going in the wrong direction or turning the wrong cam. Be careful here, it shouldn't take much effort at all.
At this point I put on the belt ( doesn't matter how you put it on at this point) and loosely tension it and turn the crank with the crank bolt and a 18mm rachet until the notches on both cams are at their respective TDC marks on the timing backing plate. Take the belt back off (cams shouldn't move now if they do just turn one that isn't at TDC back to it's mark with the ratchet again ).
Check for TDC @ cyl #1, cut a wire hanger into about a 30" straight piece, plumb said piece of wire into cyl #1 until it touches the cylinder, rotate the crank (with the belt off and the cams already lined up) until the wire is as high was it goes and then check to be sure the mark on the crank gear is in the vicinity of the notch on the block (about 5 o' clock ). Put the belt one with the lettering upside down from the point of view from the acc side of the engine, put the two line for the cams on the exact teeth they belong. Once you get the belt on you should be at either the 3.0l mark or the 3.2l mark depending on whether you have an ATX or MTX. If you did the 3.2l swap in an MTX then you want the 3.0l marks as they correspond to the timing covers used from the 3.0l.
I like to talk and help all I can, good luck!
BTW: cylinder 1 is in the rear bank closest to the pass fender..
-Josh
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thanks guys i did have the timing off i double checked it got the crank lined up with the mark on the oil pump and the cam gears lined up with the marks on the back of the cover fired it up and now its missing and back firing out the exhaust and wont idle on its own
kevinspann
Don't take my advice.
Sounds like you may still be off a bit.
You do have the bolts in the crossover tube right?
You do have the bolts in the crossover tube right?
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