Help (please)!! Bucking Problem and codes

[LongIslandSHO]

Hi everyone.

Name's Gregg.
Let me start off by announcing that I'm new here. I've actually "lurked" in the forums for a while, but just now signed up, and am making my first post with the hope of gaining some knowledge from th experts.

I am the owner of a 1993 SHO 3.0. It has 137,000 on it, and my father was the original owner, so I know everything that has ever been done to this car, have every maintanance record, and know the entire history. It was also the car that I learned how to drive on some 14 years ago (i'm 30.)

Anyway, here's the story - back in 2003 my father purchased a pickup for his new line of work, and kept the SHO because he loved it (as did I)... so it sat in the driveway for a decent amount of time.

In 2006, he re-registered the car, got it inspected (passed with no problem) but it had a bucking (and subsequent stalling) problem. At the time, Dad took it down to the Ford dealership where he purchased it back in Nov '92, and they suggested something called a "super tune" and a bunch of parts and labor which totalled 2200$.

He took the car home, parked it, and there it has sat, in the driveway, ever since.

It's always started - that's never been a problem.... we move it around constantly (to shovel snow out, etc).. but it's never been further than "around the block" because of the issue.

Fast forward to today:
It will run fine, start up, purr like a kitten... then after the engine is warm, it will start to act up. If you just leave it alone and let it idle, the rpms will drop to around 400 and then the car will stall. After which, it's a hard start, but will eventually turn over.

If you take it out on the road, the car bucks terribly (like you're on a mechanical bull) and then the engine stalls. Again, it's a hard start, but it will eventually turn over, but the car again will buck and the idling will be all over the place (the tach always works though). The CEL also DOES NOT remain on at all. It only lights once the car stalls, but turns off as soon as it is starts up. The car is also leaking something which is burning on the lower part of the engine, but it is NOT oil. I believe it's probably coolant leaking from the water pump (It's never been replaced over the 137k miles) and I know it should have been 2x already) - however, I'm not 100% certain that it's leaking from there.

So I purchased a INNOVA OBD I code reader and pulled the codes off the car.

here's what I came up with so far -
KOEO - 114 - Air Charge Temperatue Sensor)
In memory was a 211 and 542. The 542 I know was from the stall. The 211 says something in the book about a "PIP" (Profile Ignition Pickup) - but I have NO IDEA what that is... and can't find reference to it in my Chilton's manual.

KOER - **of note, the code reader also only registered that it was a 4-cylinder engine, although it certainly seems to be running on all 6. I got no engine fault code, just the code 10 to intiate the dynamic response**
After the dynamic response, I got:
116 - Engine Coolant Temp (not concerned as it is still chilly out here)
225 - Knock Sensor Fault during Dynamic Response
536 - Brake On/Off Circuit Not Activated.


So here's my question - with all your guys knowledge, what do you think I should be looking at?

So far I've cleaned the MAF sensor and the throttle body, but have the same issue.

I've purchased:
Water Pump
Gasket
Crankshaft Position Sensor
Crankshaft Gasket
Aircharge Temp Sensor
The two accessory belts.

I have all the tools neccessary to do the front 60K. Obviously that's what I'm planning on doing based on my purchases, but I want to know if I should be looking elsewhere also.

Anyone think it's a bad coil? What about the DIS? I'm hoping its the water pump that's leaking and fouling the Crank Sensor.

Oh, and just out of curiosity. I notice a lot of people mention an "IAC" around here. Can someone tell a newbie to the terms, such as myself, what that's an acronym for? - and what the "PIP" is?? I'm guessing it's the DIS module? but that's a total guess on my part.

Thanks guys. I appreciate any and all help and knowledge you can provide me. I want to get my SHO up to speed again!

:thankyou:
Gregg

 

[jmpSHO]

You kind of have to fix one thing at a time and since you're leaking coolant from the water pump chances are the crank sensor is bad. I definately would start there and IAC is the Idle Air Control valve that sits on top of the intake near the throttle body.

 

[jmpSHO]

By the way welcome to the forum.

 

[Mr95Gl]

As stated above, it sounds like it's time to do a front 60K, or at the very least replace the waterpump and crank sensor.

Where in LI are you located?

 

[LongIslandSHO]

You kind of have to fix one thing at a time and since you're leaking coolant from the water pump chances are the crank sensor is bad. I definately would start there and IAC is the Idle Air Control valve that sits on top of the intake near the throttle body.

Hey jmpSHO-

Thanks for the advice. It's funny, because I think it's the water pump leaking, but i can't be sure as I don't visually see it leaking, just know that something is leaking on the front or firewall side of the engine, and it isn't oil, which is then burning and causing smoke.

And stupid me, I realized what the IAC was right after I made the post. I also realized I cleaned it when I cleaned the MAF.

Again, curious if anyone can lead me in another direction, based on the codes that the car is throwing and the symptoms, or if the concensus is that it needs a front 60k?

 

[LongIslandSHO]

As stated above, it sounds like it's time to do a front 60K, or at the very least replace the waterpump and crank sensor.

Where in LI are you located?

Hey, I'm in Babylon. Where abouts in Brooklyn are you?

 

[Mr95Gl]

I'm in Coney Island (exit 6S off the Belt Pkwy), but I work in Mineola.

 

[LongIslandSHO]

I'm in Coney Island (exit 6S off the Belt Pkwy), but I work in Mineola.

awesome. I live out here on the island, but work in manhattan... I'm a daily LIRR rider. Always fun.

Coney Island to Mineola - That's gotta be an interesting trip on some days. I don't envy you.

 

[LongIslandSHO]

By the way welcome to the forum.

Thank you!

 

[Mr95Gl]

awesome. I live out here on the island, but work in manhattan... I'm a daily LIRR rider. Always fun.

Coney Island to Mineola - That's gotta be an interesting trip on some days. I don't envy you.

I work overnight, so the commute to work isn't bad. From work is another story especially in heavy traffic.

 

[shotime1994]

Hey I live in lake grove whats your cell #

 

[LongIslandSHO]

I work overnight, so the commute to work isn't bad. From work is another story especially in heavy traffic.

Hmmm... do you work at Winthrop? (just a wild guess based on the work schedule)

 

[Mr95Gl]

Hmmm... do you work at Winthrop? (just a wild guess based on the work schedule)

Nope. I work for a remote call monitoring company.

Also, Andrew (shotime1994) is alot closer to you then I am. You should have him take a look for you.

 

[LongIslandSHO]

Nope. I work for a remote call monitoring company.

Also, Andrew (shotime1994) is alot closer to you then I am. You should have him take a look for you.

Thanks! Like I said, it was a total guess about where ya worked... didn't really give too much thought to it. Could have been just about anywhere considering how many places offer 24hr service these days!

Yes, Andrew has been in touch... we're gonna talk in a few.

 

[jedhead]

Have you removed all the gas that was in the gas tank while the car has sat? When my SHO sat for about a year, I didn't drain the tank or added a gasoline stabilizer. In spite of several cans of gas treatment, it took about four cycles of running the tank down to empty and refilling about a 1/2 tank with gas treatment before the car ran smoothly. The other cause that I had for my car bucking unless I was at WOT was a leak between the MAF and throttle body.

Bob