Help New DIS now tach doesn't work

[buechine]

Ok, my car has been having problems lately with a sputter problem, I changed the plugs wires, after this the car still sputtered--no oil in plug wells. The Dis Module had a crack in it so i put on some dielectic grease on it and it seemed to work good for a while. The problem came back so I decided that I would pay the $135. and buy a new DIS. I just put it in and the car seems to run fine but the tach doesn't work anymore!! What other components drive the tach and where are some other spots I should look for? If it drives good its not such a big deal if the tach doesn't work but just very annoying!!

 

[RStalveyARFF]

check to see if the two bolts holding the crossover tube(the tube the DIS mounts to) are secure.

 

[pjtoledo]

What year, which engine do you have?
According to the book, for a 95 3.0, the IDM signal leaves the DIS on pin 12 and goes to the PCM pin 4. Along the way it hits a 4 way splice(S132), one leg goes to the Tach Service Connector, the other leg goes to the dash/tach. The dash/tach goes thru a connector C122, which is above the transaxle. It's a tan with yellow stripe wire. Since the engine is ok, the DIS should also be OK.
Perry Toledo,Ohio

 

[sdpatt]

Where did you put the dielectric grease? There should be heat sink compound coupling the DIS to the manifold. You can get this at Radio Shack in the solder supply section.

The CPS provides the source of the signal for the tach through the DIS module. There is a possibility that the new DIS module is defective. You could verify that if you reinstall the old DIS module and find that you have the tach reading again.

Did the new DIS solve the sputter problem? This problem could also be caused by the spark plugs. That would have been the first thing I checked.


------------------
Scott

1991, 253K miles, glass hood, police grill, SVO shifter, Catz fogs,
K&N, 73mm MAF, Superchip, PP Y-pipe, Borla cat-back, 190 lph pump
Eibach/Tokico/polyurethane, SHO Shop front & rear strut braces,
16x7.5" Moda R1, 225/55ZR16 Bridgestone RE730, -1 deg camber x 4,
Class II hitch, Silver award at the SHOklahoma Car Show

 

[buechine]

I have the heat sink compound on the back of the DIS it came with the new one. The car is throwing on the service engine light on and the tach goes on and off and then the car sputters. I am going to try to find the codes that the car is throwing and see where it leads me. I'll let you guys know when I find out the codes.
89 SHO 78 miles

 

[luigisho]

Sounds like crank sensor. Don't forget when you replace sensors to disconnect either the battery or the ground to the computer for a little while to reset the computer settings.

 

[buechine]

Just did the self test for codes and came back with a few but 19 tells me that the CID failure. Other codes just telling me that I'm running rich etc. I was looking through my sho manual and it doesn't show me that the part actually runs the tach instead the CPS seems to. Can anyone shed some light on this. Thanks in advance guys.


SHO91MTX--I actually grounded the DIS directly to the battery to make sure it wasn't this--thanks

sdpatt - - I put the old dis back in and the tach still doesn't work and it runs the same as with the new one--thanks

pjtoledo--its a 89 3.0

luigisho--I thought it may be this but if the cps is gone the car doesn't run right? but it never stalls just sputters.

 

[luigisho]

My brain isn't working too well today but I think CID points to cam sensor. That would explain no stalling. Also, it's always possible to have more than 1 malfunction but cam sounds likely.

 

[buechine]

Took some days to get that cam sensor but it fixed it. The tach registers and it seems to run smoothly. New DIS new Cam Sensor--FYI the cam sensor ran $50.95 cnd($2 US) and the DIS was $139 cnd($4 US) They were the least expensive ones around. The cnd to us converts at around $1.60. The Cam sensor was the worst thing to install ever, if your a smaller guy it may not be too bad but big hands don't fit to well.
Thanks for the input guys, Eric