HELP have to have my car

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goalieman59

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Ok Guys and gals I need some help, my car has started to accelerating by it self, and i am not just talking about the atx pulling the car like it should. Once the car got warm this morning I took my foot off the gas to start slowing down to get to a stop light. Then the car started to go faster the idle went up then i started to gain speed, after that the CEL came on. I just changed the DPFE yesterday for a 332, 335 scan of the computer. I got into my parking lot of work this morning took my foot of the break the car was at 10mph and then she started to go faster gaining speed. The rpms have been off in park the car idles at around 900, and in drive the car is idling at 1100 to 1500rpms. I need help I have get this issues fixed tonight.
 

Eric VerValin

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Nothing is binding up on the cable, or pedal assembly is it? Always a good spot to start... if it still acts weird.. it almost sounds like the cruise control not turnign off due to a bad brake switch.. make sure those work too...
 

93rev2sev

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CC should be disabled at speeds lower than 30...but you could disconnect the CC cable at the throttle body to confirm.
 

goalieman59

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The cruise has not been used in weeks could that still be the issue. Or could it be something else.
 

hawkeye18

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If the sheath on the C/C cable near the throttle body bracket breaks, it can hang the cruise cable up, pulling on the throttle and acting like it's stuck. I broke a motor mount once, and it snapped the C/C cable and locked the throttle at about 50%, or waaaay more than enough to bounce it off the rev limiter in neutral. It was really scary. Push on the throttle with your fingers (at the throttle body) and make sure it's coming back to the throttle stop screw with no change in resistance. If it doesn't, either the cable could be stuck (either one) or the throttle return spring could have either worn out or broken.
 

goalieman59

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I will check that tonight, but wouldn't that make it rev the engine all the time. not just after the car is warm? right after starting the car the drops down to normal idle.
 

Pro*banshee

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The heat could loosen things up and make it intermittent. Your best bet is to do what they said and unhook both cables (the throttle is a simple bead on the cable and the cruise control is a little clip hooking it to the cable). It won't take more than ten minutes if you have the super critical tool pictured below:

Flathead screwdriver
 

St Louis SHO

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IAC or vacuum leak. Remember the IAC was bad a while ago, bet you aint fixed that yet..... Also, when changing the DPFE, did you knock a vacuum hose off? Also check the cruise and TB cable for binding.

EDIT: Also, its hard to diagnose it over the phone, so I'm not going to call.
 
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goalieman59

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Ok the reason for the dpfe change was the same issues with the idle. James do you have a spare IAC that I can throw on the car to check. I will come get it and bring you the CAI and MAF.
 

goalieman59

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If the sheath on the C/C cable near the throttle body bracket breaks, it can hang the cruise cable up, pulling on the throttle and acting like it's stuck. I broke a motor mount once, and it snapped the C/C cable and locked the throttle at about 50%, or waaaay more than enough to bounce it off the rev limiter in neutral. It was really scary. Push on the throttle with your fingers (at the throttle body) and make sure it's coming back to the throttle stop screw with no change in resistance. If it doesn't, either the cable could be stuck (either one) or the throttle return spring could have either worn out or broken.
I turned out to be the sheath on the C/C cable broke, can that be fixed or do I have to replace the entire assembly?
 

goalieman59

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Does anyone know where I can get speed actuator assembly. I guess that is what the part is called.
 

hawkeye18

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You can swap out the cable part of the CC module... but it requires taking the module apart. I did that once... but I never got the module to work again. I don't know if I broke it or what, but I guess I wouldn't really recommend it.
 

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