Help after a 4 wheel brake job

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jakecat22

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Sorry for the novel, but I like to be detailed.:)

Ok, so prior to me buying the sho it had been sitting a while, so the brake pads and rotors were not in ideal condition, so this weekend I did a complete brake job(well, almost complete). Now, the car was still stopping ok, and the brake pedal felt normal, but the rears were heck a bad grinding and the front was really rusted. As a note.....before I ever touched the car, the ABS light is always illuminated when the car is running, and never shuts off, the PO told me the light has gone out a couple of times, and each time it did, the brakes locked up. So, I realize the ABS system is in need of attention, I just want to get the regular brakes working properly.

So, on to the front brakes. Tore it all down, and found the calipers in surprisingly great shape and functioning properly. So, I decided to return the calipers and just do rotors and pads. All went well, got on the new rotors and pads, then took the car for a drive, and it still brakes great, with the exception of the rear end grind.

On to the rears, hoping I could get away with only rotors and pads there(yea right) I pulled everything apart and realized the rears calipers were shot, but oddly, it had brand new brake lines running to the calipers(weird). So, decide to just change it all. I did run into a few snags, the LR brake caliper bracket, somehow, was bent so when the caliper went on, the bracket would rub on the rotor. New bracket, problem solved. Put on the new rotors, pads and calipers, and begin the bleeding process.

I bled the rears and then took the car for a drive. Now, the pedal feels squishy and I have to push it down awfully far to get the car to stop, it stops ok, but I know something isn't right. Did some reading up, and decided that I would just flush the whole system since it hadn;t been done probably in forever. Started with the RR, the LR, then RF, then LF and bled all the old fluid out and new fluid in, no more air bubbles anywhere, but, the brakes are still the same, squishy, but still stop. I have triple checked for leaks.

Now, I would be inclined to say the ABS system has something to do with it, but it was fine before the brake job. One more thing I will add, if I run the car, and pump the brakes fast, the pedal will get stiffer and stiffer till it feels right, AND(this may be the answer) the idle on the car will rise about 100-200 rpms, once I stop pumping the brakes, the idle drops back down.

Any clues? Maybe a vacuum leak due to the idle problem? Where would be a good place to check, or any other things you guys might see? Thanks.
 

Banshee

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Bleed it again. Rubber lines also might not look bad but could be the weakest point causing that. They go bad from inside out. And the abs on these need a special tool to service
 

rubydist

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on these cars with abs, you need some special tools to get the abs system to cycle while you are bleeding the brakes, to get all the air out of the abs system.

the idle jumping up while you are pumping the brakes is a symptom of a leak in the diaphragm in the power brake booster, so I would plan on replacing that sooner than later.
 

jakecat22

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Yea, more money LOL. I will try bleeding them again this weekend and see it it gets any better. They didn't feel to bad driving today but are still a bit squishy.

I don't know anything about ABS, but it sounds complicated. I will have to run the codes for the ABS to see what is wrong with them, because they won't engage at the moment, and I am not sure I can get the air out of they aren't working properly?

Looks like I have my weekend booked again!
 

itwonder

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Reading your posts, I recommend changing out the master cylinder. Squishy pedal, rear caliper problems, difficult bleeding, are often symptoms of a bad master cylinder. Another point; there is a seal between the master cylinder and the booster. It's important that seal be in good shape, or else you will have a vacuum leak. Rebuilt master cylinders come with a new seal. Brand new made-in-China master cylinders work great, but they do not come with that critical seal. I cannot find anywhere to get the seal separately; complained to Raybestos about that; got nowhere. Either way, a new master cylinder is not very expensive. Also, (you may already be aware), the rear cannot be bled properly while the car is jacked up. With weight off of the rear suspension, the load compensator valve on the LR control arm is closed, and little fluid will flow no matter what you do. With weight on the suspension, the valve will open and fluid flow should be normal.

You can check the ABS codes to see why the ABS light is on. A common reason is a bad wheel speed sensor.
 

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