Hey guys. Bought a 1991 SHO Plus 103k miles. Been running fine. Massive oil leak lead to replacing the front main. Cleaned area with throttle body cleaner and yes I did get some on the CPS but was cautious as I could be.
Re assembled and I had a whine front the belt side. Possibly a belt too tight? Drove 300 miles and on the way I started getting extreme studder in and out. Seemed worse at top of pedal. Popping and very hard thrusts from loss of power. Tachometer was going haywire during the outbursts of skipping/sputtering. Pulled into oreileys changed bands around the rear plenom above timing belt thinking I had a vacuum problem. Didn't notice much stalling afterwards, tho it did get 30 minutes to cool off while installing the bands. Drove to my friends house I'm vacationing with this week and decided to lossen the belts to eliminate the supercharger like whine. In an attempt to ensure the timing tensioner couldn't be over taught, I removed the timing belt and my cam gears shifted. I also moved around the crank loosening the harmonic balancer bolt. I've been told these are non interference engines though? I aligned the cams with the markers on the top of the rear timing housing and the crank with the circle on the timing gear with the oil pump housing guide. Assembled the belt, tightened everything up. Now I have no start situation. I've done the self diagnosis sysytem KOEO but I get a code pattern I'm not sure I'm reading properly as it just blinks 1's no fast blinks as if to indiindicate a 2 or 3 just 1's. Tested for spark via a spark plug and a screwdriver no spark. Limited tools. I had a 2.3 cougar die on me once like this and it was the ICM. But the cougar never studdered. So my question is what am I looking at here? Crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor, or Ignition Control Module? How do I test? Parts aren't cheap. HELP!!
Re assembled and I had a whine front the belt side. Possibly a belt too tight? Drove 300 miles and on the way I started getting extreme studder in and out. Seemed worse at top of pedal. Popping and very hard thrusts from loss of power. Tachometer was going haywire during the outbursts of skipping/sputtering. Pulled into oreileys changed bands around the rear plenom above timing belt thinking I had a vacuum problem. Didn't notice much stalling afterwards, tho it did get 30 minutes to cool off while installing the bands. Drove to my friends house I'm vacationing with this week and decided to lossen the belts to eliminate the supercharger like whine. In an attempt to ensure the timing tensioner couldn't be over taught, I removed the timing belt and my cam gears shifted. I also moved around the crank loosening the harmonic balancer bolt. I've been told these are non interference engines though? I aligned the cams with the markers on the top of the rear timing housing and the crank with the circle on the timing gear with the oil pump housing guide. Assembled the belt, tightened everything up. Now I have no start situation. I've done the self diagnosis sysytem KOEO but I get a code pattern I'm not sure I'm reading properly as it just blinks 1's no fast blinks as if to indiindicate a 2 or 3 just 1's. Tested for spark via a spark plug and a screwdriver no spark. Limited tools. I had a 2.3 cougar die on me once like this and it was the ICM. But the cougar never studdered. So my question is what am I looking at here? Crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor, or Ignition Control Module? How do I test? Parts aren't cheap. HELP!!
