Heater Core Replacement
- Thread starter Jaden01
- Start date
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luigisho
SHO Member
Uugg. You have to remove the dash or at least a bunch of it.
https://shoforum.com/index.php?threads/heater-core-2-1-2-hours.102912/#post-1109531
https://web.archive.org/web/20140814061639/http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=44695
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/77a1h1wsvvdmtox/AACBSbusdJqRt-PIONbmMpeTa?dl=0
https://shoforum.com/index.php?thre...ater-core-change-what-parts-do-i-need.113433/
https://shoforum.com/index.php?threads/heater-core-2-1-2-hours.102912/#post-1109531
https://web.archive.org/web/20140814061639/http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=44695
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/77a1h1wsvvdmtox/AACBSbusdJqRt-PIONbmMpeTa?dl=0
https://shoforum.com/index.php?thre...ater-core-change-what-parts-do-i-need.113433/
Beat me to it!
luigisho
SHO Member
I have that happen a bunch. Than I have to delete everything I typed.
yaycandy
Aerospace Engineer
I have a 90 shop manual, let me know if you need pictures of pages from the book for a how to if the other links get you stuck.
if you are going to replace it, you might consider replacing the blend door actuator while you are in there (if it hasn't already been replaced). Make sure you get the right parts, lots of info on the Shosource website
You don't need to remove the dash completely, but you do need to pull it away from the firewall to gain the access you need. I've done it alone more than once on the various cars I have owned - its not that bad, it just takes a lot of time.
RonPorter
SHO Club of America
And the evaporator, while you're at it. You really don't want to have to go back in there again.
Paul K
New Member
You must also be prepared to, properly, discharge and recharge the A/C system. That's, of course, if that system is still intact and also that you plan on recharging and using it again. I believe, and it's been a while, that no matter what you will still have to remove the high and low side A/C lines from the evap core regardless. Because you will have to remove the core box. You should also know there is just a tad in price difference for each of those cores. I worked on countless numbers of those while a Master Tech for Ford, don't let ANYONE talk you into an R134 retro or re-fit. This is just a middle finger to those that don't know the system will continue to operate and hold pressure just the same, if not better, than before. You can also add 134 to the R12 to fill any Refrigerant lost. Just DON'T overfill the system, and be sure to replace any O-Rings you've had to disturb. You may also want to install a new Orifice Tube.
luigisho
SHO Member
All good links and advice. If you have to go in there get everything replaced so you don't have to pull it out again. Good luck!!
Greg Corcoran
SHO Member
While we are on the subject - the prior owner had his mechanic replace the heater core and my dash rattles like crazy ever since I bought the car. Seems to be somewhere near the centerline of the windshield, but deep in the dash. Short of taking the entire dash and console out again as exploratory surgery, is there a likely brace or fastener location I can concentrate on?
In the center section of the dash.... There is the bolt up top by the windshield, one under the dash closer to the driver side, and one on the left side of the glove box compartment once the glove box has been lowered.
-Chad
Greg Corcoran
SHO Member
Thanks Chad! I'd guess one, but likely 2 of those three are missing or loose, center and right side. Can I get to the center one from the glovebox opening too?
The center one is on top of the dash.
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