Have no clue whats wrong.

[FOSHOMATT]

Hey guys got another problem. Just did a brake job about a few weeks ago. Needed pads and rotors bad so Long story short. When going to brake hard like lets say you see a deer my car feels like it my rear driver side grabs and then my front right caliper grabs. It feels like a "S" as it pulls to one side, then overcorrects to the other and is done. I stop fast tho. It just feels weird. Im not sure if I have air in my abs system or a stuck piston Or air still left in the lines? Ive never had this before I did the brake job. I greased the slider pins and took off any rust and replaced with new hardware.

 

[krewat]

Did you replace or disconnect the calipers from the lines for some reason?

Whenever I do a brake job, I pull one side apart completely, put a C-clamp on the old brake pad on the piston side, and as I compress the piston(s), I back off the C-clamp slightly to see if the pistons move back out. They should move slightly (a millimeter, maybe less), as the internal seal should be soft enough that they will allow the piston to move slightly as pressure is released (this works both ways). If the pistons do not move slightly after releasing the pressure, the seal is stiff, or there's corrosion or dirt in the caliper that's keeping the pistons from moving freely.

If the slide pins are good, and greased well, this lack of retraction of the pistons will make one set of pads sit closer to the rotor. As you hit the brakes, that one caliper will grab quicker than the other.

I also do the above on brand-new (rebuilt) calipers, as sometimes the rebuild job gets the seal impinged somehow and the piston doesn't move freely.

Other than that, yes, air in one side will make one caliper grab faster than the other, and then the pressure will equalize on both sides.

How do you get the impression it's one rear on one side, and then the front on the other side?

 

[FOSHOMATT]

I did use some brake clean on a rag to get some dirt/debri off around the caliper piston like on the rubber so when I did compress it didn’t get in it. Okay so I’m guessing I just need to bleed the brakes then. It was a brand new caliper that I replaced as well. I’m just not sure on how to bleed the abs system tho? And I get the impression cause i feel it on my back that grabs in the back left and then front right and then stops

 

[Bronco2fan]

Did you only replace one caliber? And is it on the ones that are grabbing? I don't know about most people, but I was taught if you replace one caliber, do them all. And you should always bench bleed new calibers when possible.

 

[FOSHOMATT]

Uh I replaced 2 the driver and the drivers rear. I just got done bleeding the brakes as good as I can and It does it very little. I think if I get a proper brake bleed it should be good. I feel that movement very little now and I can control it. when before I had to counter turn the wheel so I didn't hit the person on my right.

 

[SilverSH0]

The only ways I've seen to bleed ABS is take it to the dealer where they can bleed them or take it to a parking lot when it's wet and cause the ABS to kick on several times.

If you replaced a rear caliper make sure the pads are lined up correctly. If I remember correct there's some pin in the pad that has to line up with the caliper (I could check my WSM but I've lost the disc and waiting on a new one). If that's not done correct, the caliper won't index the pad in right and it causes the pad to grab much later than normal (which could cause pulling to one side).

Did you only replace one caliber? And is it on the ones that are grabbing? I don't know about most people, but I was taught if you replace one caliber, do them all. And you should always bench bleed new calibers when possible.

I've done plenty of brakes where only 1 caliper was replaced and I don't see the thought behind replacing ALL the calipers if one needs replaced. Brake pads I've always done in pairs (or the whole car just because) because they wear roughly evenly between sides. Tires, I always replace all of them because they wear evenly if you rotate. On those things when one is bad the others are right there with it.

But on a caliper, I could maybe see replacing fronts together and rears together if it's the seals that fail. I don't see the point in replacing all 4 as the backs will wear much differently than the fronts. I have 1 front brake caliper on my Jeep that failed around 110k miles and now I'm at 230k and the other one is still going fine. So to me, one failing doesn't indicate the other is on it's last leg.

 

[Bronco2fan]

Well that's probably why she pulled to the right, if you only replaced drivers side calibers. And didn't bleed them good enough on installing.

You should for future reference not do sides only. Rear or front is acceptable or best bet all four.

Good luck and I hope you get her sorted out.

Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk

 

[FOSHOMATT]

Well I replaced them about a year or so and ive never had this problem. untill this brake job. My last one where I replaced the calipers never had the problem before. Im not sure if its because its aftermarket pads/rotors or not? But the dealership had the scantool that lets you bleed the abs. and for the rear pads it had that ****** on the pad and I found out that it goes in there on the second set of pads/rotors that Wagner & Akebono sent me.

 

[shaker281]

Unless you ran your master cylinder dry, I doubt air is in the ABS module. And if the driver's side calipers were both replaced a year ago with no symptoms I would not suspect that either. After making certain that the rear pad locator pins are properly inserted in the pads (I believe this is part of the emergency brake arrangement), I would inspect everything carefully by removing and reinstalling the calipers and perform a proper bleed if not already done.

Last time I did a brake job on the SHO I inadvertentley misaligned one of the front caliper bolt washers, the ones with the flat edges. That caused me some problems.

If the calipers are not too old or rusty you can get away with replacing only one, but it just makes more sense to replace both on the same axle for longevity and balance.

 

[FOSHOMATT]

Well I did have some problems with the front right now that I remember that the pins were really hard to get out. I just ordered a new caliper bracket so hopefully that helps. For the pins I did see the line im not sure if theres a certain way to put the pins in which one goes where?

 

[shaker281]

The pins I was referring to on the rear pads are just stubs on the back of the pads that must align with the caliper piston slot. I believe they prevent the piston from turning so that the parking brake extends and retracts properly, but if not inserted in the slots could cause uneven caliper performance.

However if you had trouble with front caliper pins, that could easily cause what you describe. They all need to move freely and evenly. Old stiff grease or corrosion would cause problems.

 

[markathome]

Let us know what you find is the solution. Mine has been doing this for over a year... And I've had pads and rotors replaced... Been to two dealers... Both have no idea.
I saw a similar past on the Taurus forum.
Some folks have also suggested suspension components wear.


Sent from my XT1094 using Tapatalk

 

[FOSHOMATT]

Will do! I don’t wanna jinks it but after replaceing both front caliper brackets and making sure my rear calipers sit in that ****** on the back of the pad on the rears it seems to help it a lot where it when I stop fast it goes to the front right only now. I replaced both struts on the front about 2-3 months ago and have h&r springs. So knock on wood ima put some air in my tires and make sure it’s all good cause the front right does look a tad low. What made me believe I needed new brackets for the front was my front left slider pin had a tear in that rubber boot and it has rust on the pin. So I instantly thought there might be some in that hole. So instead of replacing one I replaced both fronts and lubed them up pretty good and stop and feel a lot better on the pedal.

 

[FOSHOMATT]

Okay well I have a new update. Took it to the youtuber ford tech makuloco and he found that my rear toe link on passenger side was ready to fall off because the nylon socket was ready to fall off. Replaced both sides and stops straight instead of the S that I felt

 

[SHOdded]

FTM again FTW!

 

[Sgtmeatsauce1]

where is this miracle ford tech I got a few weird problems for him....

 

[SHOdded]

BSG Automotive/Brian is FordTechMakuloco on YT.
http://bsgautomotive.com/

Be patient, this is a one-man shop. He stays VERY busy.