Got my codes, looking for some clarity.

[MusPuppis]

Ok, I officially took posession of the SHO (93 MTX) today. Drove it around some and put it through its paces. I topped the tank off with fresh premium and put about 90 miles on it (trip from where I live now to where I used to live). Same problems as before. Erratic idle, jumpy tach, no secondaries, no power, dead spot at WOT.. Gas mileage however seems to be good, lol. Car did exhibit one new problem though. Until the engine was warmed up a tad it kept surging and refusing to accel. It was all I could do to hit 40..

I pulled the codes and heres what I came up with. I reset the codes and drove the car again, same codes both times.

KOEO

212 (M) Ignition TACH signal was erratic (module/wiring) or SPOUT circuit fault - Ignition Systems

114 (O,R) IAT sensor out of range - IAT

542 (O,M) Fuel pump open, bad ground or always on - - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits

KOER

411 (R) Idle speed system not controlling idle properly (generally idle too high) - ISC

412 (R) Idle speed system not controlling idle properly (generally idle too low) - ISC

167 (R) No Throttle Position sensor change in "goose" test (must get at least 25% rotation) - TPS

225 (R) Knock sensor not tested (ignore if not pinging) - KS


Ok, the 167 leads me to beleive the TPS has failed. Which would explain my dead spot at WOT and possibly go a little ways to explaining the no power issue. Thoughts? i know I goosed it enough, I bounced it off the 6k mark.

The 411 and 412 I'm unsure of. Possibly more symptoms of a failing(ed) TPS? The engine does idle high, around 1200-ish and has a very small surge.

The 542 has me confused. Is it possible my fuel pump is on its way out? How loud are your all's when they prime? Mine's pretty damn noisy, louder than any car I've ever heard as a matter of fact. I'd test the fuel pressure but I dont have access to a guage for that at the moment. If I can get one though.. What kinda of reading is normal?

212.. Dunno what it means. Well, I know what it means, its in reference to my tach working half the time and half the time just kinda bouncing where-ever it wants to. Possible fix? Could this perhaps effect my secondaries? I havent had a chance to test the wiring to the module.. but they certainly arent opening on their own.

114.. Opinions?

Anyway, if anyone can shed some light on these codes I'd appreciate it. I'm gonna pick up a new TPS ASAP and see how I fair. Cylinder balance was fine. I have to say, power issues aside, the car drives amazing. Smooth, connected, a pleasure in all respects.

 

[Rockledge]

Hold off on the new TPS. You'd be better off spending the money on a new fuel filter right off the bat. You should also check the plugs and wires, look for oil in the wells etc. Clean the MAF sensor. Things like that. In short, you first want to make sure the engine is reasonably in tune.

If it were my SHO and I was experiencing those symptoms and pulled those codes, I would address them as follows:

Forget for now the 114, 167, and 225 codes, they are usually set when the code-pulling process is not done to perfection.

The 542 code can be set during an MTX stall event, but I'd keep it in mind in nonetheless. A fuel pressure test after installing the new fuel fiter would help rule out a fuel-delivery issue.

DTC 212 indicates a loss of Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) signal to the PCM. The IDM is derived from the kickback voltage spike that occurs when the primary side of a coil has fired. Lack of an IDM pulse is used as an indication of intermittent and/or missing spark event. Ford Manual says the possible causes of DTC 212 are:

-- Open harness circuit between DIS Module and PCM.

-- Shorted harness circuit between DIS Module and PCM.

-- Damaged Ignition Control Module (DIS Module).

-- Damaged Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

I personally would add a bad coilpack to that list of possibilities. Pin #12 (GY/O wire) on the DIS Module is the IDM signal output circuit.

Regarding the 411 and 412 codes, you should clean the IAC valve and then reset the idle. if that doesn't help, replace it.

 

[MusPuppis]

Thanks for the info. I'll check everything you suggested and see where I stand.

 

[MusPuppis]

Quick questions..

When my car is started, my fuel pump is *very* audible. Having never dealt with any SHO's before I dont know if this is common or a precurser to pump failure.

How loud are your alls?

 

[jebooker]

If it "whining" when in normal operation, be prepared to replace it in the not so distant future. Mine "whined" for about 2 months before giving up the ghost!! There will be some noise when it primes however.

 

[MusPuppis]

Yup, constant whining.

Thankfully I dont have to replace the clutch like I thought - leaving me money for a fuel pump =]