Got codes read...what needs to be done now? Cam sensor? A/c cycling? Intake runner?

[5.0stang]

Well I went by Autozone today and got the 96 SHO "read".

I got:

DTC P0430
Camshaft Position
Sensor A - Bank 1

DTCP1000
OBD Systems
Readiness Test
Not Complete

DTC P1469
Excessive
A/C Cycling

DTC P1519
Intake Manifold
Runner Stuck Closed
(Bank 1)

So what is the next step?

How expensive is the sensor and where is it located? Externally? Internally?

What does the readiness test not complete mean?

What would cause that code for excessive a/c cycling?

What could be closing the #1 intake manifold runner up? Ideas?

Thanks!!!

 

[SHOZ123]

DTC 430, change the camshaft sensor. Cheap and easy.

DTC 1000 means you have not completed the OBDII drive cycle. No problem for now.

DTC 1469

Continuous Memory Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1469 indicates frequent A/C compressor clutch cycling.

To set DTC P1469, the ACCS input to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) (Pin 41) must be changing states in less than 8.5 second intervals for a calibratible length of time.

Possible causes:

Mechanical A/C system concern (such as low refrigerant charge, damaged A/C cycling switch.)
Intermittent open between the Electronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC) module and the Pin 41 input (ACCS) to the PCM.
Refer to the Electrical/Climate Control System Group in the Service Manual to test A/C compressor clutch cycle times, and to check causes of fast A/C compressor clutch cycling.

DTC 1519, you need to see if the IRMC is working. While the car is idling look at the LIM secondary linkage where the IRMC cable attaches under the TB. Then quickly open the throttle 100% by hand and let snap shut. You should see the LIM linkage open twice when you do this.

 

[5.0stang]

Okay, your great!

Where can I get the cam sensor? I'm guessing there is more than one...4 cams. How much do they run usually? Any writeups on putting a new one on?

What is the IRMC and LIM secondary linkage?

The car has been in a wreck so I bet the switch is damaged...

 

[BodylessSHO]

IMRC is a silver box on the front of the engine, under the SHO plastic piece. The LIM linkage is a cable coming out of it. A new one is something like 120? I don't remember, but it's an easy fix.

 

[SHOZ123]

The cam sensor should be available about anywhere. One is needed it is in front next to the water pump belt. One bolt easy access.

The IRMC box can be replaced with a Duratec one for the cheap if you go to the bone yard.

 

[5.0stang]

It says sensor A, Bank 1. Are all cam sensors the same? Is there only one?

Would Autozone have one? What are some roundabout prices?

I don't have any "good" junkyards around...

I'll run the test to see if the secondaries are open and go from there.

How much are a/c cycling switches?

Any write-ups or pics where the cam sensor is?

 

[SHOZ123]

I'm sure AutoZone would be glad to tell you if they had the sensor and how much it cost if you ask them.

Do you have a Ford CD? www.fordcd.com

The cam sensor is located on the head above the exhaust manifold next to the water pump.

 

[Ian Macoomb]

How much are a/c cycling switches?

Any write-ups or pics where the cam sensor is?

$21 at the dealer for the cycling switch. At least that's what I paid in July.

Do a search on the v8sho.com site. I believe there's a good write up on the cam position sensor.

 

[5.0stang]

Ian - That price isn't bad at all...I hope that is the problem. Any write-ups on it?

I checked v8sho (lots of info) and the picture and link were down on the cam sensor change. Any other links.

SHOZ123 - Yep, I'm sure they would. I was wondering if anyone had prices on it or if there cam sensors were fine?

 

[Ian Macoomb]

The cycling switch is located right on top of the accumulator/dryer. The accumulator looks like a little propane cylinder and is located right by the degasser tank (aka the radiator overflow). I believe it's just as simple as unscrewing the old switch and screwing on another. I never got around to changing mine because we found the massive leak and figured there's no point changing it till I replace some AC lines.

 

[5.0stang]

Alright, just an update!

I changed out the a/c cycling switch (16 bucks from autozone)...

I changed out the cam sensor, I had problems seeing it because the connector was not connected since the wreck had happened. I changed it out anyways since it was so easy...

The plastic piece in the IRMC (half circle part) was broke and caused slack in the line and appeared to have restricted air flow setting off the code?

I tied it back with a zip tie.

I started the car and the light never came on, and we have drove it 4 seperate times and the light has not came on yet...so I'm hoping it won't for good.

I do notice now that the idle is poor right when you start it up, it kind of shakes the car a little...(low idle I guess)...is this normal after wiring open the secondaries?

Thanks for all the help!

 

[SHOZ123]

Disconnect the battery and the IRMC box.

It will be rough running at start up until it leans a new idle trim.

 

[5.0stang]

Oh, so I need to undo the plug (electrical) from the IRMC as well as open it up?

 

[SHOZ123]

When you disconnect it, after a while you will not get the check engine light any more from this.

 

[5.0stang]

Disconnecting the IRMC is what I should then at the electrical connection. Then you say I will get a check engine light...and it will eventually go off?

 

[SHOZ123]

If you have the IRM wired open then yes disconnect the IRMC connector. The light did eventually go off on my car. YMMV

 

[5.0stang]

Yeah, it is just confusing...the light hasn't came on yet in about 5 short drives.

They are looking to sell this car soon, and we would hate for the light to come on...