Going to turbo.....

[Cnp22]

My ? Is what do I need? I'm goin to be doin all the pipe work my self. I'm very familiar with turbos (I do diesel performance) but I need to know exactly what these motors can hold. I'm goin to be boosting at 10-12 psi no more. For now any ways!!! I have a 95 mtx with the 3.2 it has 20k on new motor. Thanks!!

 

[lowc]

you should be fine on the engine side but you will need a trany very shortly and there are a few others that im sure will give you more details on everything

 

[zach44102]

a fresh 3.2 will handle that boost no problem with a tune....as long as you can supply the fuel to go with the boost you should be in good shape.... the stock fuel pump can handle 300hp. any more you will need a fpr (fuel pressure regulator), injectors, fuel pump 190, or 255 walbro....which means you will need a tuner....tweecer will be your friend to your sho and not to your wallet....now to the tranny....once your wheels start losing traction your diff pin will want to eject.. there is two ways to fix this, lsd (wavetrac or quaife) or weld your diff pins.....unless you like loads of one wheel spin i would get a lsd...

i could go on forever but it all depends on what kind of power you are wanting.

 

[Sho Amo]

a fresh 3.2 will handle that boost no problem with a tune....as long as you can supply the fuel to go with the boost you should be in good shape.... the stock fuel pump can handle 300hp. any more you will need a fpr (fuel pressure regulator), injectors, fuel pump 190, or 255 walbro....which means you will need a tuner....tweecer will be your friend to your sho and not to your wallet....now to the tranny....once your wheels start losing traction your diff pin will want to eject.. there is two ways to fix this, lsd (wavetrac or quaife) or weld your diff pins.....unless you like loads of one wheel spin i would get a lsd...

i could go on forever but it all depends on what kind of power you are wanting.

You really shouldnt be giving people the wrong information. The stock fuel pump will not do 300 hp, and 10-12 psi isnt 300hp either.

I see this is your first post, you should try searching some of my threads or shotime2511. Alot of stuff is covered already. Some of the smallest things are the most annoying (like oil feed lines and fittings). If you have any questions that have not been answered by searching post back with whatever you need, I would be glad to help.


One good tip. If this is your DD, start doing the small stuff now. You will probably need to relocate some stuff, and upgrade some things. All that stuff can be done without a turbo. That way, when its time to put in the turbo its all your doing.

 

[zach44102]

You really shouldnt be giving people the wrong information. The stock fuel pump will not do 300 hp, and 10-12 psi isnt 300hp either.

I see this is your first post, you should try searching some of my threads or shotime2511. Alot of stuff is covered already. Some of the smallest things are the most annoying (like oil feed lines and fittings). If you have any questions that have not been answered by searching post back with whatever you need, I would be glad to help.


One good tip. If this is your DD, start doing the small stuff now. You will probably need to relocate some stuff, and upgrade some things. All that stuff can be done without a turbo. That way, when its time to put in the turbo its all your doing.

mtx fuel pump is a 112 and will handle 300 hp..... also i never said 10 to 12 psi was 300......10 to 12 psi could put you upwards of 400hp

You'll know your fuel pump is going when you hear a loud whining sound from the back of the car (no mother-in-law jokes, please!). Ford put a high capacity 112 LPH fuel pump in the 5-speed SHO, which is strong enough for a 330 horsepower engine. Unfortunately, while the Automatic SHO was supposed to have the same pump, for some reason some Automatic SHOs received the standard 65 LPH pump You can't tell unless you pull the pump. If you have an Automatic SHO and you've got a few extra dollars, you might want to check your fuel pump and replace it if it's one of the smaller ones.

 

[Cnp22]

Ok cool iv got all the oil fittings, lines, pump. I'm going to be using a Hx35, and i'm going to put it's own oil pump and resivor in the spare tire ****. My girlfriend is driving it to work right now but when I start on it she will start driving her truck again. I just want at least 300 to the wheels, is there some info on weldin the diff pins? I can do it just need to know exactly what to weld. Thanks for the info this seems to be a great site I'm glad to be apart of it!

 

[zach44102]

Theres a tiny metal pin thinner than a toothpick that holds the horizontal bar in the picture below in place, the one that goes through the center of the differential, this one is welded so it doesn't rely on just that pin to keep it there.

ill try to find more pics

 

[zach44102]

 

[Cnp22]

Sweet! Easy enuff! Now next ? While I'm digging around that area what clutch does everybody like?

 

[SASHO91]

You have a very decent choice as far as the turbo is concerned. However, the rear mount placement with this turbo may lead to a bit more lag then you would like. That is, without knowing the a/r on the hotside. Assuming it came off a 5.9 cummins? Year?

I would also recommend running a cooler for the oil as well since you will not be plumbing it back to the engine. At the very minimum, attach a heat sink to the tank and have it exposed to some type of air flow.

Tuning can be done a few different ways. The top and best choice is obviously installing larger injectors, aftermarket fuel pressure regulator, larger fuel pump(190-255lph),larger maf, and finally tweecer. This is also the more expensive and more difficult way if you have never used this software. Be that as it may, there are many people on the board that know exactly what they are doing, and would most likely send you a good starting point.
Another cheaper, less sophisticated way would be to install a 190lph fuel pump with a
rising rate fpr. Using the stock injectors you would be pushing the limits but it can and has worked. Keep in mind this leaves you very minimal room for errors.

Charge air cooling, shouldn't be too big of a problem. That turbo is fairly efficient and the length of charge people should keep things fairly cool. But, it would still be a wise choice to install some type of charge air cooling, again just for an increased buffer zone.

An upgraded clutch is going to be a must. Your choice on that one, as you're the only one that will ultimately know the final output numbers.

I would also consider upgrading other systems of the car before you start the process of adding power. At a bare minimum, make the car a stable platform to build on. In other words, if your suspension is alittle worn it would be a wise choice to install a nice new set of struts and springs and some bushings here and there. Same with the braking system. Would really suck to slam into something because of the lack of adequate brakes. The stock brakes are very under powered for the cars size.

This is just the just of it. If you do a search you can find loads of information on the subject, other members installs, and good technical specs.

Hope this sheds some light on your new money pit, aka sho adventure.

 

[Sho Amo]

mtx fuel pump is a 112 and will handle 300 hp..... also i never said 10 to 12 psi was 300......10 to 12 psi could put you upwards of 400hp

The 300 number you are referring to is a CHP number, which is around 250 whp. Seems to me, he is talking whp numbers which would be blowing the stock pump out of the water. Also, never said you said 300 was at 10-12 psi. Again, whp or chp? 400whp on 10-12psi is a stretch.

 

[Cnp22]

I had the turbo rebuilt for my 96 cummins but it got something else... let's just say I'm use to lag. Hahaha I'm gona use a oil cooler mounted under the car on the other side of the turbo, by the way this is going to be a rear mount set up. As far as breaks I'm goin to order some drilled and sloted rotors , will mustang rotors work? I have some slitly used rotors off my 99 gt. Now for a program I'm using the tweecer I had it on my turbo gt it was a nice set up I just never learned how to use it and the guy that use to do my programing don't live around here anymore so I have to find some one to teach me.

 

[SuperchargedSHOguy]

The stock pump is insufficient for what you are aiming for. Go to a 190lph at minimum. You will need larger injectors as well and should upgrade to an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Thats just the fuel system. You still need to tune it.

 

[Cnp22]

My buddy has a 255 walbro, what injectors will be a good match? I'm only aiming for around 300 whp just a little when I need it lol iv got my high hp fix in two other trucks. Thanks for all the help!

 

[SHOspazz92]

My buddy has a 255 walbro, what injectors will be a good match? I'm only aiming for around 300 whp just a little when I need it lol iv got my high hp fix in two other trucks. Thanks for all the help!

Just keep in mind anything above a 155lph Fuel pump is going to require a Fuel Pressure Regulator. You can get one from Josh at SHOnutperformance.com

-Sam

 

[luigisho]

It's very smart to limit hp/torque to useable levels. The FWD platform is not as durable as many other RWD setups. If you up the boost too much you really have to worry about shaft flex inside the tranny and still spitting gears. You should be relatively ok with what you have in mind. Keep posting about project progress.

 

[Phoenix]

I had the turbo rebuilt for my 96 cummins but it got something else... let's just say I'm use to lag. Hahaha I'm gona use a oil cooler mounted under the car on the other side of the turbo, by the way this is going to be a rear mount set up. As far as breaks I'm goin to order some drilled and sloted rotors , will mustang rotors work? I have some slitly used rotors off my 99 gt. Now for a program I'm using the tweecer I had it on my turbo gt it was a nice set up I just never learned how to use it and the guy that use to do my programing don't live around here anymore so I have to find some one to teach me.

Rotors wont work. If you want to upgrade your brakes , theres 2 common ways.

1-You go with the 11''+ inches GEN3 SHO rotors , but you need GEN3 sho brackets , and 94+ calipers and 94+ knuckles.

2-Mustang cobra brakes , up to 13'' (wont fit stock wheels) , The rotors needs to be slotted in the lug holes (not same bolt patern) , then the calipers and brackets (GT or Cobra) needs to be mated with 94+ knuckles.

Just so you know , Theres a guy here running on 5 PSI with no other mods , gets about 300 crank hp. But everything is maxed out.

I highly suggest you do that first , then if you want more , well its gonna cost ya.

Because when you start tackle higher then that , you start breaking axles , third gears strips , etc.

Also make sure the rod bearings are replaced , You can boost all you want with these engines but rod bearings needs to be done in order to last as long as you want.

 

[whiteguy3]

One good tip. If this is your DD, start doing the small stuff now. You will probably need to relocate some stuff, and upgrade some things. All that stuff can be done without a turbo. That way, when its time to put in the turbo its all your doing.

The best advise yet.

 

[zach44102]

The 300 number you are referring to is a CHP number, which is around 250 whp. Seems to me, he is talking whp numbers which would be blowing the stock pump out of the water. Also, never said you said 300 was at 10-12 psi. Again, whp or chp? 400whp on 10-12psi is a stretch.

i was talking crank hp, but still, 330 at the crank is around 275 wheel maybe 280....still i would go with a larger fuel pump.

 

[LOUDSHO92]

Brake upgrades: SHO Source

48lb injectors will be a good match: SHO Source

Also make sure the Walbro will fit, just any pump wont fit as there are SHO specific ones.

We are working on a turbo kit and we are working on the final details now.