Go to change the brakes... found out why I was getting some weird noises

[luigisho]

Trying to remember what the differences are. Haven't looked into that in a long time. I know the pistons went from phenolic to metal but I am not sure if there were fitment differences. I think the pad shapes are different but I forget if the calipers and brackets are physically swappable to fit.

I bought upsized spindles and used the stock calipers for the year that came with the spindle before going to genIII and Baer/Mustang setups.

My guess is no because then the spindle swap would not be needed for upsized setup.

 

[thegreatbriguy]

I think I'm gonna pass on this for right now. With all the hardware I would need I'm looking at $750 in parts.

Buy your parts on rockauto

 

[Devin]

Nah. I'm getting a reman from Mike.

 

[SeanDev]

Well, my driver side spindle is boned. Had to get remanned calipers because the bleeder screws wouldn't budge, even with a lot of encouragement, and I went to put the new one on the driver side and the bottom slider pin just spins freely. Took the caliper off and yup, it's stripped.

So far, everything that can go wrong with this operation has. Awesome.

That's the SHO platform. It's money and time spent, you get moments of happiness, but can have anger issues and it makes you walk away without hurting her in frustration.

 

[Devin]

Is there a washer in addition to the hub nut that mates up to the wheel bearing? If so, I don't have one. All I have is this guy:

 

[Devin]

From this shot it looks like I am supposed to have one.

 

[zoomlater]

From this shot it looks like I am supposed to have one.

View attachment 85470

this is from the 1992 Helm's manual

 

[luigisho]

this is from the 1992 Helm's manual

you have the install page?
Looks like yes one is needed. The good news is the oem part number is listed-- here is a page with the specs for it

OEM Ford -N801338-S101 - Washer

Save on genuine Ford -N801338-S101, Washer at a low price at AutoPartsPrime. We offer wholesale prices and lightning-fast shipping for your convenience!

www.autopartsprime.com

 

[zoomlater]

there is an exploded view, but it just shows the washer and nut on the end

 

[Devin]

Thanks, I ended up ordering a few from O'Reilly's. My other side is missing it as well, so I picked up another hub nut as well.

Not sure how I managed to lose them, but this could explain why my bearings seem to fail more often than they should.

 

[Devin]

Got the "new" knuckle/spindle/bearing installed (thanks Mike, the painted knuckle looks great). New calipers are on, bled and now I am charging the battery since it was too weak to turn over. Damn cold weather. Hopefully I'll get a chance to test it out tomorrow

 

[luigisho]

Good news. Post back after trial run.

The press in ones are such a PITA. I'd rather do 2 swaps of the integrated ones with the wheel studs like GenIII and up vs 1 of the press in ones.

 

[Devin]

It's still making a significant amount of noise on the driver's side. I'll have them look at it when I take it in for alignment

 

[luigisho]

hmmm. Drive drive wheel is the other side as I recall. You are sure it is suspension and not a pulley? Is it possible the strut bearing or mount is trash?

 

[Devin]

Guy at the shop: "oh, you're the one with the '90? That's almost a collectable if it wasn't, you know, a Ford Taurus".



Harsh!

 

[luigisho]

Harsh but true. It might be a collectable in another 10-20yrs. Most are dead and gone. but yeah.. still taurus so probably not

 

[Devin]

It's still making noise especially at it warms up AND now I don't have running lights or cluster lights. Also the rheostat doesn't work.

 

[luigisho]

Well that dimmer/switch for dash is a known failure part. You'll probably have to get a used replacement and I would not let it linger. I think..poor memory.. there has been an issue of one or 2 starting to smoke shorting out. It's not very common with failures but I think I remember something like that.

 

[Devin]

So I put the car on my buddy's lift and found out what the noise was. It was due to a part of the dust shield on the bottom of the knuckle. It was pressing up against the rotor, but only with the lug nuts fully tightened. When I took the wheel off the noise went away. It became a lot easier to see after being on the lift and it took all of 30 seconds to bend the shield piece back.

 

[luigisho]

So I put the car on my buddy's lift and found out what the noise was. It was due to a part of the dust shield on the bottom of the knuckle. It was pressing up against the rotor, but only with the lug nuts fully tightened. When I took the wheel off the noise went away. It became a lot easier to see after being on the lift and it took all of 30 seconds to bend the shield piece back.

I've had to bend a shield or two for same reason