Go to change the brakes... found out why I was getting some weird noises

Devin

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at least you will now know everything that's fixed on the car
Well, at least on that side! Age really got to that boot as it is hard as a rock.

I also tore the boot on the tie rod end taking it off with a pickle fork (is it possible to not tear it?), so I am replacing that one too.

Hoping Les Schwab gets my knuckle back to me today.
 

zoomlater

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Well, at least on that side! Age really got to that boot as it is hard as a rock.

I also tore the boot on the tie rod end taking it off with a pickle fork (is it possible to not tear it?), so I am replacing that one too.

Hoping Les Schwab gets my knuckle back to me today.
I have ruined the same boot with the pickle fork as well
 

Devin

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I'm going to see if I can R&R the boot on the old tie rod end and possibly the ball joint and boot on the lower control arm. Those have got to be standard components that can be found somewhere. The bushings are on rock auto but I haven't found the ball joints yet.
 

SHOrod

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I also tore the boot on the tie rod end taking it off with a pickle fork (is it possible to not tear it?), so I am replacing that one too.
It is possible to not tear it. I typically don't use a pickle fork on tie rod end unless I don't care if I destroy them. If I plan to reuse the tie rod end I will install the castle nut upside down on the threaded portion to the point where the bottom of the stud matches the bottom of the nut, then smack the underside with a large hammer. If a couple of smacks doesn't free it up, then I'll dig out the air hammer and fire up the air compressor. A few seconds of hammering on the flat of the knuckle next to the tie rod end will usually free the tie rod right up and no damage will be done to the rubber boot.

-Rod
 

SeanDev

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Been there with my interceptor, so I know what I'm in for on the SHO. The worst job was rear bearings, had to beat those out. With my control arms I used a center punch to tap out of knuckle. Same with tie rod, not a fan of pickle bars, unless I need to pop shaft out of transmission.
 

Devin

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Well, my driver side spindle is boned. Had to get remanned calipers because the bleeder screws wouldn't budge, even with a lot of encouragement, and I went to put the new one on the driver side and the bottom slider pin just spins freely. Took the caliper off and yup, it's stripped.

So far, everything that can go wrong with this operation has. Awesome.
 

luigisho

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Situation normal all f'd up.

What year is the car? If it's pre '94 you can get a set of 94-95 spindles if brake upgrade is in the future.
 

luigisho

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I think there is a size difference and these spindles were the base for the upgraded/upsized kits to include 11.6" 12.5" and 13" brakes. The car would need larger than the oem 15" wheels that came on the '90.
 

thegreatbriguy

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the caliper attachment is different on 90 and 94/95. the newer calipers are the upgrade so you only want to go that way if you want to get the rotors, calipers, brackets and pads that fit that spindle and give the upgrade
 

luigisho

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If you go for a bigger front rotor and caliper make sure they fit under slicers. I THink the GenIII 11.6 front setup will fit. Best mods I ever did to any SHO was brakes and suspension.
 

luigisho

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You can still use regular brakes and do it in stages. I did that with a car or two. Cash is always an issue though.
 

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