go aluminum or not?

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zach44102

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i just can not make up my decision. iv heard good and bad about aluminum flywheels. i have heard you will feal a big difference in first and second but will not register as a improvment on the dyno be cause of a 3rd or 4th gear pull. so lets have the people running an aluminum flywheel on there sho chime in. let me know all the pros and cons. whether its worth 300$ as well as the pros and cons on the steel o.e flywheel.
 

FastAndFurious

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pros - weight saving, faster rev-matching
cons - can have some flex issue, doesn't last as long, takes time to get used to it.

there are probably some more...
 

lowc

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pros - weight saving, faster rev-matching
cons - can have some flex issue, doesn't last as long, takes time to get used to it.

there are probably some more...

x2 dont have one myself but have herd the same thing most ive talked to said its like learning to drive a stick all over again
 

firebat45

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x2 dont have one myself but have herd the same thing most ive talked to said its like learning to drive a stick all over again

That's what I had heard to, and I think it's a load of crap. There was one or two moments after I got it where I wasn't paying enough attention to driving and I was still used to the old flywheel where I nearly stalled it, but for the most part it's only a slight adjustment.

I wouldn't spend the $300 on it. It's more of a "look what I got" mod than a functional one. Instead of putting $500 towards reinforcing your diff and $300 towards this, you could be $800 closer to a Quaife.

Or spend the $300 on a NOS kit instead, lot more bang for your buck (pun intended).
 

32MTX

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just reuse the stock one, don't buy a new OE one.......

I'd only do that when my flywheel was so screwed up it no longer worked normally, not just for the **** of it
 

zach44102

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mine will more then likely will have hot spots in in so resurfacingis not a good idea. new o.e one will ensure proper mating with my stage 2
 

nothingtoseehere

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Zach, contact Kirk (SHODWN) who posted in your other thread. His lightened fly wheels is the bees knees. And all the info he gave you comes from his, and many other old timers, personal first hand experience with SHOs that run track only, track and street, street only, etc.
 
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Heat spots are normal for organic clutches.
Unless its scored,resurface it and save the $ for other things like suspension,brakes,ext.
 

zach44102

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i can get a brand new one for 30 so why not? i have 20 doller credit at autozone and comes with 45 doller core
 

yamahaSHO

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I would like to know where you're getting a new (not resurfaced?) flywheel for $30. When I bought a BRAND NEW one 3 or 4 years ago, I got it for $150 from someone I know that has access to a large load of NOS parts. I got BRAND NEW heads from the same source for $500/pr.

TBH, you're over-thinking this. Resurface the old one, put it back together and you won't notice anything over a new one.
 

zach44102

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well the price is 50 with 45 doller core. so about 100$ ill get my core back and plus i have twenty dollers rewards there
 

HotRodKid

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i have heard you will feal a big difference in first and second but will not register as a improvment on the dyno be cause of a 3rd or 4th gear pull.

thats because a dyno is not real life. A light weight flywheel is a great performance mod for the following reasons:

Removing weight from a car is good
removing ROTATING weight is real good
removing rotating weight from the engine is PHENOMENAL

but because its in front of the transmission, its effects are directly proportional to what gear your in

in first gear it could be as if you removed 500 pounds of tools from your trunk, but by 5th gear it would be like you only removed 25 pounds of tools from your trunk

By 4th gear, a light weight flywheel is only adding maybe 5hp, which isn't enough of a change on a dyno graph to be able to say "thats because and only because of the flywheel swap"

to many other factors get in the way, temp, humidity, barometric pressure, engine temp, trans temp, tire temp, how the car is lashed down to the dyno....
 

32MTX

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I laugh at people who think you gotta resurface a flywheel to do a clutch job

did it not work before or something? lol

like all the sudden your flywheel is going to stop working properly or your clutch is going to chatter or slip when you put a new clutch disc in.... its going to be just like before!

the most I do is sand them with a DA to get the old material off......

now if you have a problem directly related to the flywheel...... then go ahead and fix it! If not leave it alone and put that money elsewhere...... like a bank, or a night out, or other SHO parts that will have a bigger effect

we've done THOUSANDS of clutch jobs without resurfacing flywheels..... decades of jobs....

have you ever done a brake job without resurfacing the rotors or replacing them? if you didn't have any issues before, the addition of new pads is not going to create one. As long as the rotor meets certain specs/tolerances it is ok to reuse, with cleaning it the most work you do to it, this is per OEM instructions....
 

RStalveyARFF

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well 32MTX, they resurface flywheels to put the friction surface level with the mating surface of the pressure plate. If someone wears a clutch out, the pressure plate, disc, and friction surface of the flywheel have all received wear. The mating area for the PP has kept it's surface due to no wear being applied there. So when you go and DA or roloc the flywheel you're now causing the pressure plate to have to extend further than intended to apply its clamping force. Per OEM instructions it says resurface the freaking flywheel, not half ass it like you.
 

RStalveyARFF

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well the price is 50 with 45 doller core. so about 100$ ill get my core back and plus i have twenty dollers rewards there

I just looked up the part on AZ's site. It's a "remanufactured" flywheel, aka a resurfaced one. Just spend the $20 and have a machine shop turn yours.
 
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I laugh at people who think you gotta resurface a flywheel to do a clutch job

did it not work before or something? lol

like all the sudden your flywheel is going to stop working properly or your clutch is going to chatter or slip when you put a new clutch disc in.... its going to be just like before!

the most I do is sand them with a DA to get the old material off......

now if you have a problem directly related to the flywheel...... then go ahead and fix it! If not leave it alone and put that money elsewhere...... like a bank, or a night out, or other SHO parts that will have a bigger effect

we've done THOUSANDS of clutch jobs without resurfacing flywheels..... decades of jobs....

have you ever done a brake job without resurfacing the rotors or replacing them? if you didn't have any issues before, the addition of new pads is not going to create one. As long as the rotor meets certain specs/tolerances it is ok to reuse, with cleaning it the most work you do to it, this is per OEM instructions....

Who's "we" and where is this shop? I wanna make sure I don't send anyone there.

That said, yes you can get away with not resurfacing a flywheel, or replacing/resurfacing rotors. IMNSHO, it's ******** to take a chance on NOT doing it unless it's going on a POS that you don't care about.
 

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