Getting low voltage in dash and accesories, correct voltage at alternator/battery

[EL SHO]

I'm having a weird intermitent issue in which I am getting low voltage at dash and accesories like stereo, windows and cigarette lighter.
I measured this through an analog gauge I custom installed and also by checking with a digital multmeter.
At dash sometimes I get between 10 and 11.5 volts, this is with the car running.
Whenever I notice that the volts drop, the temperature gauge in the dash moves to the HOT position, but I know the car is Not overheating. When the volts return to normal, the temp gauge returns to normal range.
I do not get the low voltage warning light.

At the same time I check the voltage at battery terminals (car still running) and I get 14.2v reading even with lights and AC on.

Where is the car loosing those volts between what the alternator gives and the dash is receiving?

I have checked the battery grounds and they look good. In fact long ago I installed 3 more ground cables plus the stock one.
Positive cable also looks good.

Any ideas?

 

[mrecoolgar]

Remove, clean and tightly reattach battery cables with dielectric grease.

 

[EL SHO]

Remove, clean and tightly reattach battery cables with dielectric grease.

Battery is new and I cleaned the terminals when I replaced it, also used that dielectric grease and some of those rings that you place on the posts to prevent corrosion.

 

[rubydist]

my guess is a bad ground somewhere in the dash system.

 

[EL SHO]

While I was checking for any loose whires under the hood I found this connector, the one with red, hanging alone just below the coil pack next to what it seems a big SPOUT gray connector (if thats what it is).

I couldnt find anywhere that red harness/connector would go and if I follow the rest of the wires they go into the CCRM box. Even its security tab is broken, so I believe something was connected there.

Any clue where that red connector might go or what it's for?
(View media item 181

 

[tommyturbo]

I can tell you that spout connector is the jumper for the "octane" plug. Forgot the exact term ford uses. It just restricts timing advance. Supposedly if you have issues with knocking from low grade gas that plug can be removed. It's not as severe a retarding as the fixed timing pulling the spout connector causes.

Can't be sure since it has been a while, but could it be for your evap emissions solenoid?

Any codes? It could just be built in for something your car wasn't optioned with. I know there are some dummy plugs up by the wiper motor on my 95's.

 

[EL SHO]

Well I did found a loose ground at the top of the strut tower on the right front side, just behind the power steering reservoir, it has 2 or 3 ground wires and a screw holding them, it was a bit loose, so I'll test tomorrow if it makes a difference.

About that "octane" plug, right now I'm having some pinging/knocking between 1500 and 2000 rpms under light/moderate load and I use 93 octane, recent tune up, etc.
I will try removing that plug to see if it makes a difference in pinging/knocking.

I forgot to check the Evap emissions solenoid to see if that other plug belongs there, I sometimes get the CEL light, but that is because the EGR sensor cant read well enough the exhaust gases only.

 

[skyshadow07]

Does anyone know the voltage we should be reading when driving? I ask because I assumed 13.8-14V but when driving on the hwy or under load I get as low as 12.5V. I only get 13.8V or more when city driving.

 

[rubydist]

12.5V is too low. I suggest getting the alternator tested.