General Maintenance 100K miles

[JohnW63]

I just found this forum and thought I'd post a few simple questions.

I have a 1995 SHO with ATX. We have about 106K miles on it and I have a small laundry list of things that need attending to.

The Check Engine light had been lighting up more and more often, so I read part of the codes with a jumper wire and watching the Check Engine light flash. Since I could not tell what to do after reading the code. ( a 189 ). I took it to a local shop and they read the codes for me. They said that both sides of the motor were too lean, the MAF sensor had an error, and the engine temp was not comming up to spec. They found the fuel filter was VERY plugged and I had them replace it. They reccommended replacing the thermostat. Replacing or cleaning the MAF sensor, and having the fuel injectors cleaned. I swapped the MAF out and I have purchased a thermostat but have not yet installed it. The engine light has not come on since. It seems to run smoother now too. No pinging on hills.

Ok, here are the questions:

Do I need to have the injectors cleaned or is the stuff in the can any good ?

I have not yet changed the factory timing belt. Is it nessisary at this mileage ?

Who makes decent brake pads for these cars ? All I can seem to find, at local parts stores, is inexpensive organic and ceramic. ( Stock 1995 rotors )

I have found sites that mention that a gasket is NOT needed for the thermostat, is that true ?

Who makes a good serpentine drive belt ? The local parts store has Goodyear, for about $50.

That's enough for now.

John

<small>[ March 18, 2002, 01:14 PM: Message edited by: JohnW63 ]</small>

 

[sdpatt]

Welcome John. You have come to the right place to ask questions about your SHO.

The 189 code is described below.

189 (Memory code) Fuel system was lean at part throttle - Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control

This code refers only to the front (of the car) bank oxygen sensor and not a general engine lean condition. This is most likely caused by the front sensor not reading properly due to its age and miles. Only when both sensors show a lean or rich condition should you suspect the engine control system. You can get the Bosch 13223 or 15716 (either will work) sensor from AutoZone or AutoZone.com for 40.99+tax. You can remove the front sensor with an open end or Crescent wrench, but an oxygen sensor socket makes it easier. The socket is mandatory for the rear sensor on your 3.2L.

Any time the CHECK ENGINE light comes on, even for a split second, a code has been stored in the electronic engine control computer (EEC). For your future reference, here are the sites I referred to for the testing and code descriptions.
Test: http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html
Codes: http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/3digit.html

Where is the temerature gauge pointing after you have been driving for at least 5 minutes? Is it in the NORMAL range or still below it? If it is not at least above the lower NORMAL tick mark, the thermostat is not fully closing (its normal failure mode) and is preventing the engine from adequately warming in the cool weather. I recommend using the Motorcraft RT-1112 'stat. This 'stat usually comes with the new seal. Your ATX uses the 194 degree version. Make sure you install the outer seal around the 'stat's edge before installation. This functions as an O-ring to seal the mating surface between the 'stat housing and the water manifold. The seal is the only sealing medium or gasket needed (no gasket or RTV). The two "jiggle" valves are positioned at the top and serve to alow a vent path to speed the refilling of the radiator.

Just for info, the MAF filaments can be cleaned with a spray of intake manifold cleaner. Just remove the air filter box lid and spray the cleaner through the filament port.

The detergents in today's gasoline do a great job of keeping the injectors clean. When I take off the intake manifolds on the SHOs I service, the spray area below the injector is always spotlessly clean. The rest is not so good. A bottle of good injector cleaner every few thousand miles will also help. I recommend the Chevron product with Techroline.

Your timing belt is scheduled to be replaced at 100,000 miles. The belt is only $33 from RockAuto.com and not a significant expense. The labor to install on the other hand, is a good day's worth of shop hours. When you do have the belt changed, it would probably be a good idea to also replace the water pump, front main crankshaft seal and the crankshaft position sensor (CPS). The reason is because most of the same disassembly must be done to replace each of these parts. The parts, sources and lowest prices I have found are shown below.

Timing belt: Gates T248, RockAuto.com, $32.81+s&h
Water pump: A1 Cardone 57-1458, O’Reilly, $67.99+tax (rebuilt, with gasket, lifetime warranty)
Front main seal: National 710220, O’Reilly, $7.99+tax
CPS: Wells SU242, AutoZone/AZ.com, $42.99+tax

That covers the front end work, but you didn't mention the top end work that was required at 60,000 miles. This service includes the valve gap adjustment and the spark plug (Motorcraft AGSP-32PP, FordPartsNetwork.com, $3.99 ea.) replacement. Other replacements during this service may include the valve cover and spark plug well seals (Fel-Pro VS50378R, AutoZone.com, $71.99+s&h) and the spark plug wires (Motorcraft WR-4033 (fits 3.2L), FordPartsNetwork.com, $83.99+s&h).

I highly recommend the Performance Friction Carbon Metallic brake pads. These are available at AutoZone for about $35 with a lifetime replacement guarantee. Their performance will startle you and the deal is hard to beat.

The lowest price source I have found for the Goodyear 4060850 belt: CarParts.com $20.19+s&h. Another option for a quality belt is the Gates K060854 from RockAuto.com for $20.58+s&h.

Again, welcome to the forum. You can use the search function to check for previous discussions of topics. Most have already been covered.

<small>[ March 18, 2002, 02:45 PM: Message edited by: sdpatt ]</small>

 

[JohnW63]

sdpatt,

According to the guide with my SHO, the double platinum plugs only need to be changed every 100K. I just did that a couple of weeks ago. I used the Motorcraft plugs. I've heard other plugs don't quite fit. I left the plug wires alone.
According to the guy at the shop, besides the 189, which I read, the other codes indicated the other bank was lean too.
I wish I had posted here sooner. I didn't see any dirt on the MAF sensor. I would have been nice to know what to look for and that I COULD clean it. There went $70 for the rebuilt MAF.
I'll take the $6 thermastat back and get a good one. With a seal.
I'll also check out those sources for parts and info.

How hard is it to change the valve cover gaskets ? When I changed my plugs, I found they all had fresh , unburned oil in them. My dad suggested that could coime from oil leaking into the plug wells from the valve covers. They were NOT oil fouled.
If I pull that apart, I should check the valve lash, I suppose. How big a chore is that. I have the Helms shop manual as a guide.

John

 

[sdpatt]

John,

I have not personally viewed a Ford document that states that the plugs on the V6 SHO engine are good for 100,000 miles. I have only seen the upper engine work interval as 60,000 miles for plugs and the valve gapping. Since you have oil in the spark plug wells, you need to replace the plug well seals. They are part of the Fel-Pro VS50378R valve cover seal set that also includes the two molded rubber valve cover seals for $71.99+s&h from AutoZone.com. Ford sells the plug well seals for $30 each ($180 total).

You are correct about the Motorcraft AGSP32PP plugs. They are specifically produced for the SHO engine only and they are a proprietary design. No other plugs fit as well or will last as long.

Your dad was right about the source of the oil in the plug wells. In fact, that is the only possible source for oil in the plug wells. You should remove the oil (vacuum pump, rags, air pressure) before removing the plugs to prevent not only the oil from entering the cylinders, but the road grit that is entrained in the oil. The grit finds its way past the plug boot seal at eh valve cover surface. This grit can be very detrimental to the health of the cylinder walls and piston rings.

I have emailed you the procedure that I have created for the upper end disassembly and valve gapping service on the 3.0L and 3.2L SHO engines. You can read this document and determine if you have the tools, experience, time and desire to do this job. If you choose to do it, you will feel much closer to your engine than ever before. Also attached is the spreadshhet I maintain with all the parts and prices associated with these opportunities.

The main things necessary to perform the valve gaping are the specialty tools (tappet compressor and tappet holder) and the needed assortment of valve shims. These tools and shims can be rented from SHO NUT Performance (shonutperformance.com) or Cincinatti SHO (cincysho.com).

For photo histories of a few of the service jobs I have done, you can click the address below and enter your guest password: service

http://www.photoisland.com/servlet/GuestLogin?USERNAME=sdpatterson

Scott

<small>[ March 19, 2002, 09:59 AM: Message edited by: sdpatt ]</small>

 

[JohnW63]

sdpatt,

Thanks for the info. I have received the documents you e-mailed. I'll give those a look.

I have scanned the visual procedures for the timing belt service at www.shotimes.com. I may do that myself. It depends on the time I can make. If I can't spare some, I may farm it out. I just don't trust general garages, unless I have some good referals. I wish there was a SHO mechanic registry. Put in you zip code, it finds the nearest SHO specalist.

Since I've hit the motherload for SHO info,..

Ever since my father-in-law repalced the brake pads, we've had a scaping niose in the back brakes. I've pulled the wheels and can find no noticeable wear. Because we were also getting a pulsing pedal, I pulled the rotors and had them turned. The pulse went away but a couple of days after re-installing the brakes, and coating the backs with spray anti-rattle blue stuff, the noise comes back. Mostly during turns. He adjusted the brake bias some when he did the initial job. ( We've always had trouble with the back brakes wearing faster than the fronts. In fact, at one point they went WAY too far and scored the right rear rotor bad enough to need replacement. The fronts were fine. The left rear was just barely scratched. Seemed very uneven wear to me but Ford said it was within spec. "These cars have 60% of the braking done by the rear brakes." was the quote. ) The book says that adjustment is for heavy braking , when the rear of the car lifts. Could this contribute to my problem ?

My dad wonders about the rear axel bearings having too much play and allowing the rotor to move into the pads. Any ideas on this problem ?

JohnW

 

[sdpatt]

The brake proportioning valve limits pressure going to the rear brakes when the rear end is unloaded a certain amount such as during heavy braking. Since I have installed a stiffer suspension that is lower than stock and doesn't have as much dive during braking, I had adjusted the setting on the proportioning valve to have the rear brakes do more work. I found that I had to return the setting somewhat towards the original bias because the ABS was engaging quite early on the rears during firm braking. Even with this greater bias to the rear brakes, my pads, when replaced at 100,000 mile intervals, have had more than 1/2 of their thickness remaining.

You may want to check the dust shield to see if it has been bent such that it is too close to the rotor. I had removed my dust shields long ago.

Recently though, after more than 255,000 miles on the originals, I replaced my rear wheel hubs and bearings as an assembly. After removing the brake caliper and rotor, only the 36mm hub nut had to be removed to allow the hub to slide off the stub axle. After a close inspection of the sealed bearings on the old hubs, I determined that they had neither excessive play nor unusual wear nor lubricant leakage.

When I replaced the hubs with the Timken product, I had to grind off a portion of the caliper that was interfering with the rotor due to a slightly more inboard offset. With the caliper installed, ensure there is clearance at the forward edge of the caliper on the inboard side of the rotor as a possible source of interference and noise.

Scott