Gen4 SHO PP recommended fluids thread:

[studio460]

What is everybody putting in their Gen4 SHOs?

Hey all! As some of you know, I'm taking delivery of a 2019 SHO PP tomorrow with 14K miles. It lived in Ohio (cold), then Arizona (hot) under a corporate-lease, and then, a private owner. I live in Los Angeles County. I would like to change/flush all fluids immediately upon delivery. I fear the car may not have had an oil-change since it left the factory. Does Ford use a synthetic-blend in their factory-fills?

This is my third Ford gasoline vehicle and have always put Mobil 1 5W20 (as recommended) every 3,000 miles. I see some other recommendations here, plus additional drive-train components which require fluids with which I'm unfamiliar.

This is what I've been putting in my Marauder DOHC-V8, Freestar OHC-V6, and GF's Fusion 1.5L turbo:

[Note: These were purchased for a 2003 Mercury Marauder DOHC V8.]

• Engine: Mobil 1 full-synthetic 5W20.
• Radiator: Genuine Ford VC-7-B Red concentrated antifreeze/coolant [diluted 50/50].
• Transmission: Genuine Ford XT-5-5QM Mercon-V automatic-transmission fluid.
• Differential: ?
• Suspension: Mobil 1 full-synthetic.

A quick Google-search also revealed a Mercon XT-5-QSM fluid which is a synthetic-blend. Is the XT-5-5QM fluid full-synthetic? What are the "best" performance-fluids for everything in the car? Price is no object. Not a daily-driver, so fewer bumper-to-bumper drives (but some; this is California). It's mainly a road-trip car that will travel throughout California with periodic jaunts through Nevada and Arizona (e.g., 117° ambient).

Thanks for any replies!

 

[yaycandy]

SM105K's SHO BIBLE/BUILDS/LIFE

First things first. Thank you @SHOdded for helping me with the information below. His knowledge and experience with this platform is immense. What to expect: Post one: General knowledge of the SHO and what to expect. Post two: The Story of M, my SHO. I posted all of my mods, current mods...

shoforum.com

 

[SM105K]

Lol. Every question he has posted literally is covered in that thread, with book marks.

The only thing people swap between is AMSOIL and Redline Lightweight Shock Proof for the PTU and RDU.

 

[studio460]

Okay, thanks. Apologies for all the already asked-and-answered questions. I'll re-read that thread more carefully. Okay, re-read the fluids part. So here's what I'm doing, basically a carbon-copy of your recipe, but I added the specific part numbers so there's no confusion on my part. I'm just about to order all this so I don't want to make any mistakes.

2019 SHO 3.5L EcoBoost V6: [UPDATED WITH CORRECTIONS.]

• Engine: Mobile 1 Advanced 5W30 [6Q/5.7L].
• Oil filter: Motorcraft #FL-500S or K&N equivalent.
• Radiator: Motorcraft VC-13-G (yellow) + 50/50 distilled-water [13.1Q/12.4L]
• Transmission: Ford Mercon-LV automatic-transmission fluid #XT-10-QLVC 5-quart [11.6Q/11L].
• PTU/RDU: Red Line Lightweight Shockproof gear-oil #58404 [PTU: 0.53L/RDU: 1.0L].
• Power-steering:
• Brakes: Motorcraft PM-20 DOT-4 LV high-performance brake fluid.
• Suspension: Mobil 1 synthetic-grease #96108.

By the way, did you choose Castrol Edge because it's been proven to be a higher-performance synthetic than Mobil 1? For fluids, price isn't a consideration for me.

My SHO's odometer is just over 14K miles, so I'm changing the following prior to our first road-trip, heading east through the desert (dates of prior fluids-change unknown):

• ✓ Engine oil change: Mobile 1 5W30 + Motorcraft FL-500S filter [02/17/2023].
• ☐ Transmission-fluid change.
• ☐ Radiator flush/fill.

 

[Texas Marauder]

The correct coolant is Motorcraft VC-13-G Yellow concentrate or VC-13DL-G prediluted.

 

[studio460]

Thanks! So I've been using the "wrong" coolant? Hmmm . . . I've been putting the Red concentrate I listed above (labeled, "Motorcraft Gold") in all my Fords for the past several years. My guess is this isn't a big deal?

 

[Texas Marauder]

The Gold is correct for the Marauder. Same as Zerex G05.

Link to usage chart:
https://www.motorcraft.com/content/...erence_charts/antifreeze_coolants_english.pdf

Orange has been replaced by Yellow.

 

[SM105K]

Okay, thanks. Apologies for all the already asked-and-answered questions. I'll re-read that thread more carefully. Okay, re-read the fluids part. So here's what I'm doing, basically a carbon-copy of your recipe, but I added the specific part numbers so there's no confusion on my part. I'm just about to order all this so I don't want to make any mistakes.

Engine: Castrol Edge full-synthetic 5W30.
Radiator: Ford VC-7-B Red (50/50).
Transmission: Ford Mercon-LV automatic-transmission fluid #XT-10-QLVC (5-quart).
PTU/RDU: Red Line Lightweight Shockproof gear-oil #58404 (capacity?).
Grease: Mobil 1 synthetic-grease #96108.

By the way, did you choose Castrol Edge because it's been proven to be a higher-performance synthetic than Mobil 1? For fluids, price isn't a consideration for me.

My SHO's odometer is just over 14K miles, so I'm changing everything except for the PTU/RDU prior to our first road-trip (heading east through the desert).

I chose Castrol Edge after watching a bunch videos and research. I wanted a oil specifically formulated to for direct injected turbo engines, that holds up, and that isn't 8 to 10 dollars a quart. LSPI is big deal in our world. Here is a good article aboout it. https://www.motor.com/magazine-summary/resolving-low-speed-pre-ignition/ Castrol Edge has a good track record against LSPI. Also if you buy it at Walmart you can get a pretty good deal for 6 quarts and a K&N or Motorcraft Filter.

 

[studio460]

Thanks, Texas Marauder!

Thanks, SM. I assumed you had already done a ton of research to arrive at that decision. Thanks for the background. Plan to run to Walmart today to pick up the oil and filter. If I can find the Mercon-LV locally I'll have that changed today also (Amazon has it).

Speaking of $8-$10/quart oil, I wouldn't mind paying that if it really is better. What brands are we talking about here, Royal Purple, Amsoil, Red Line? Ooops! No Walmart near me (closest superstore is really far). Will check for Royal Purple stock at local auto-supply locations.

I want to change the fluids today since we're planning a weekend trip to the desert. Next weekend we should have snow at lower-elevations, so we plan to take my new AWD SHO to Mount Baldy, about an hour outside of L.A.

 

[studio460]

One more question: Are people filling their radiators with distilled water or tap-water? I live in Los Angeles County near the beach and our water here is extremely hard. Brand new plumbing fixtures get ruined within a few months.

 

[luigisho]

I always use distilled when possible. Emergencies are different, but distilled is an ounce of prevention for a pound of cure.

 

[studio460]

Thanks, luigisho! Good to know I'm not crazy. Since our water is so hard, I think it's a prudent preventative measure.

 

[luigisho]

Yes.That has plenty of elements that can electrically react with metals in the cooling system so you are not crazy. At least not regarding this subject. Plus, distilled water is cheap so you can use the optimal choice for little $.

 

[studio460]

Great! Good to know I'm not crazy (at least on this subject!).

Not to get into the Great Oil Wars of 2023, but a quick Google-search revealed a summary of the Petroleum Quality Institute of America's tests on Mobil 1 and Castrol Edge (both tested specifically for the 5W20 weight of each brand alone), which puts Mobil 1 ahead in every category; e.g. boil-off, VI, etc. [source]. Mobil 1's corporate site makes an argument against competing oils which have higher amounts of high-pressure additives (e.g., Royal Purple).

Assuming any real-world differences among various brands are nominal, I'll probably fill today with Mobil 1 5W30 or Royal Purple 5W30 (whichever I find first) and further research for my next 3,000-mile interval. This oil change is mainly to flush all contaminants from previous owners' extreme-weather driving (i.e., Ohio and Arizona), and an unknown last oil-change date.

 

[studio460]

First oil-change!

Just returned from Valvoline for the SHO's oil/filter change. I bought the Mobil 1 Advanced 5W30 and Motorcraft filter from the Autozone next door. Will reconsider alternatives in 3,000 miles—I just wanted to dump the old oil as soon as possble. I requested no fluid-fills, so all they did was change the oil and filter and check tire-pressure.

I noticed a fair amount of jiggling while waiting in the car (Valvoline insists you stay in the car), both pre- and post-fill. Is the oil-filter difficult to access?

I asked about a transmission-fluid flush and coolant-flush ($189 and $119, respectively), but they'll only fill with Valvoline products. Will have to go to an independent shop for the trans/flush, but I don't know if they have the flush-pumps like the quick oil-change chains have.

May postpone trip until Sunday when the trans-fluid and coolant arrives, but I feel a lot better now that the car at least has a fresh fill of oil. With two prior owners (one, a corporate-lease), I have no idea if anyone had ever done any fluids-changes (I assume not).

I purchased other recommended fluids via Amazon, including the PTU/RDU gear-oil (if about the same price as retail, I'll usually just buy it at retail, but Autozone had to order almost everything on my list anyway). The Mercon LV was $17 less from Amazon than Autozone, so I did buy the trans-fluid online, saving $34.

 

[luigisho]

I purchased (I forget which fluid) from AMazon once. It was packaged inside a clear plastic bag --like the bottle was pre-broken and leaking somewhere along it's shipping route. Won't make that mistake again and buy local. Just imagine gorillas jumping up and down on your items. Had to toss it immediately and buy it locally for a dollar or two more.

Hopefully your stuff arrives in good shape.

I usually get more stuff locally so I don't have to pay extra in time and money on the back end fixing errors.

 

[studio460]

Yeah, I know it happens, but I've ordered a ton of gallon-jugs of stuff and everything always arrived safely. A UPS store is just down the street and Amazon returns couldn't be easier. Again, Autozone had to order most of it anyway, so I still couldn't do the flush today. Also, Valvoline's "only our fluids" thing really irked me.

DIY radiator-flush/transmission-fluid change:

Plus, I just don't trust any of those places: From over-torquing your oil-pan's drain-plug (had to tap-out a new hole), to losing your brand-new transmission-pan's drain-plug (and replacing with a used, rusty bolt), to only checking two tires' pressure (the other two, severely under-inflated), before a 700-mile roadtrip to San Francisco in my Ford Freestar.

I'm guessing a radiator-flush isn't too hard to do myself? I'm also looking at trans-fluid extractors/fillers on Amazon, but I would very much welcome any specific recommendations. I'll also get the pump for the PTU/RDU fluids (two bottles on order).

I have large, flat driveway, ramps, jack-stands, and a two-ton aluminum, low-profile jack (used mainly for brake-pad and rotor replacement); though, I haven't done my own oil changes since I was in high school.

 

[FrankK]

I wouldn't do a trans flush, if the machine is not clean you could do more harm than good.
Warm up the transmission and then open the small drain and wait for the fluid to drain, then refill with a good quality trans fluid. Do that several times over the next 6k and you should be fine.
Make sure you measure how much fluid comes out and you'll have a good start on how much fluid you will need to add back in.

 

[studio460]

Thanks! I think that echoes what SM recommended. I think he said after 10 drain/refill-cycles, you'd have 90% fresh fluid. That sounds a lot simpler. The Mercon LV will be here Sunday and sounds easy enough. I bought three 5-quart bottles since the trans-capacity is 11.6Q!

Need to buy a plastic quart-sized measuring cup (for oil, too). There's no filter, right? Is the trans drain-plug relatively easy to access?

Yeah, I really didn't want to take it to the place—I just don't trust those guys. Plus, they're charging about $200 for a trans-flush.

 

[SHOdded]

4 d/f cycles on the 6f5x trans typically gets you to 93% fresh fluid, but you can compute for yourself depending on what % of stated capacity you get out each time:
1 - (1-x)*(1-x)*(1-x)*(1-x) for 4 cycles for example.