Gen 3 sfb install problem

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munkee

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I bought the gen 3 sfb's for my 90 under the advice that they fit. Although that is mostly true I am still having a problem. The lower part of the bushing has two little tabs on it that keep it from sliding into the hole in the sub frame. For those of you who have installed these before, did you have to grind or file the sub frame to get them to fit or did you just cut the tabs off of the bushing? Thanks.
 

munkee

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Cool. Cutting the tabs would be a lot easier, I just didn't want to mess up the bushing. Thanks guys.
 

SHODWN

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a bench grinder works well too. Im glad I did this and glad that others are usein them..

For those that have what do you think?
 

projectSHO89

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My old bushings were so bad that a Krispy Kreme donut would have been an improvement.

I do like them, though.

Steve
 

projectSHO89

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They need to drop several inches (supported with a floor jack) in order to remove the original SFBs and to insert the new ones.

Make sure you re-align the front of the sub-frame per the service manual before tightening the bolts.

Steve
 

SHOZ123

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The gen 3 rear bushing has an oval center that better distribtues the load. Here is a pic of all the different busings used on the SHOs.

SFB3.jpg
 

munkee

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Thank you for that pic shoz123, I printed that from another post but the parts guy kept it. This time I saved it. For reference from left to right aren't they aluminum, gen 3 rear, gen 1&2 rear?, and gen 1&2 front?

<small>[ November 18, 2002, 08:19 PM: Message edited by: munkee ]</small>
 

SHOZ123

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That is the correct order except the far right is also the Gen 1, 2,& 3 front. :)
 

RI-SHO

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Would any local mech be able to perform the SFB's on my SHO w/o a problem or is it something I would to take to the dealer?

If not to difficult of a DIYer are there any write-ups so I can eventually do it myself and align it properly?
 

projectSHO89

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RI

Easy DIY project.

All you need are a pair of jack stands to support the body of the car, a floor jack, and a selection of wrenches and sockets. I did mine in about an hour and a half the first time. I could probably do it in less than an hour now.

As far as re-aligning the sub-frame, all it takes is a couple of deepwell sockets (OD=3/4") on an extension or a length of thick-walled 3/4" OD pipe.

The biggest PITA was removing the old police style SFBs, each was held to the sub-frame with four nuts that had to be individually removed.

In a nutshell, the process goes something like this:

1) Raise vehicle and support on jackstands under the body.

2) Loosen front SFB bolts a few turns.

3) Place floor jack under rear crossmember of subframe to support the subframe.

4) It may be helpful to disconnect the Y-pipe from the cat-back if you do not have a flex-pipe before doing the following.

5) Remove the rear SFB bolts.

6) Using the floor jack, lower the rear of the subframe several inches, enough to get to the retaining nuts (if present). Otherwise, lower it enough to remove whatever SFB has been installed.

7) To install the Gen III SFB, the tabs on the lower half must be removed by filing or grinding. A shot of white lithium grease on the rubber inside of the SFB will aid assembly if the pair. Install the upper bushing on the upper part of the subframe. Insert the lower half through the subframe and into the upper half. The assembly must be oriented so that the points of the oval-shaped portion of the rubber inserts are pointing front and rear. The previously removed tabs would, if they had not been removed, have also faced front and rear.

8) Install the other rear corner SFB as above.

9) Use the floor jack to raise the rear of the subframe back up to the body.

10) Install the bolts with large washer/plate. Do not tighten, but make sure that they have a good number of turns engaged with the mounting nut.

11) Drop front of subframe as above and replace both SFBs. Raise front of subframe and reinstall bolts.

12) Using the alignment "tool", make sure that both front corners of the subframe align to the body. This occurs when the hole in the body lines up with the corresponding hole in the subframe. Use the tool to manipulate the subframe into alignment, then tighten the bolts at all four corners to 65-85 lb-ft.

13) If disconnected, reconnect exhaust.

14) Remove car from jackstands and take for a test drive.

Enjoy the tighter feel to the steering and suspension, especially if the olf SFBs were worn out.

Steve
 

SHOZ123

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I had to break the big bolts on one of the front bushings. This was on my many miled '93. I also installed new bolts and nuts in the front. The rear had already had the recall kit installed.
 

RI-SHO

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By dropping the y-pipe do you mean just remove it from the cat-side and leave it loose till finished with the subframe?

I know the recall has been done on my SHO but it doesnt say whether its front or rear, would I only need two more recall kits for the 2 that have been done or should all 4 have been changed by the dealer?

Also I have decided to go with aluminum SFB's, so would replacing all four washers/bolts be a good idea with these stronger bushings?

Thanks for the clear write-up i'll be saving it to use later on once my SHO is running.
 

SHOZ123

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I didn't drop the Y pipe to do mine.

The recall is only for the rear bushings. Pull the carpet up on the drivers side and look fo a 2" rubber plug where they drilled the hole for access.

I didn't use the washers when I replaced the bolts and nuts with my aluminum bushings.

<small>[ November 19, 2002, 04:17 PM: Message edited by: SHOZ123 ]</small>
 

projectSHO89

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By dropping the y-pipe do you mean just remove it from the cat-side and leave it loose till finished with the subframe?
Yes. I didn't do this, now I've got an exhaust leak to fix when I get around to it.

The recall only covers the hardware for the rear SFBs. They don't replace the SFB under the recall.

Each recall kit includes all the hardware for the rear of the subframe: two each of the bolts, washers, nuts, plugs, etc. You could always re-use the old bolts and washers, but prudence indicates that the new ones will be safer.

Steve
 

munkee

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Just don't get too excited if the front bolts break loose really easily and end up ratcheting too fast and gashing your wrist on the sheet metal like I did. It kind of puts your hand to sleep for a few seconds.
 

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