fumes from hose

[raphy rod]

hello.i have a 95 atx that when it gets really hot or drive for a long time with a/c on will shoot out gas fumes fom this hose that goes nowhere.there is not a place for it to go.i did plenty of research dealing with the canister,restrictor tube under the radiator,and the purge solenoid.these items where all looked at and checked.i checked them according to what members say on the forum.maybe i checked them wrong,but i dont think so.so now what can i do about the fumes in my car making me and passengers sick.can i make the hose longer and shoot the fumes out the back end instead of under the car.when i open the gas cap also a big pressurized sound with gas fumes shoot out.please help.its just awful stink.thanks

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[rubydist]

well, that picture is about worthless, but I'm going to guess its at the front driver's side of the engine compartment - if so it should go to/from the charcoal canister in front of the drivers front tire and connect to the purge solenoid and then continue to the intake. is that the one?

 

[raphy rod]

hose with fumes

the picture is the hoses in the back rear tire part.they are coming from the gas tank.you can make out the blurry fuel filter at the top of the picture.the hose you see hanging with no connection cannot connect to anything because there is where it stops.it stops btween the filter and gas tank.

 

[rubydist]

leaks from the gas tank overflow hose are usually due to a gas cap that does not seal. I would either test or replace the gas cap.

 

[ViPER1313]

http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=102510 - I had the same issue. Make sure that the small restrictor in your T-fitting is clean, if not check the actual operation of the purge solenoid (hook 2 small wires to the + and - terminals of the battery and then touch them to the 2 wire prongs of the solenoid, it should give a loud click if working correctly) and try putting vacuum on the vapor line to the motor to make sure it is not clogged.

You can try capping the vacuum port on the intake manifold for the vapor recovery system and simply unhooking the vapor recovery line from the T-fitting (the one that goes to the gas tank, if looking at the T under the car it is the lower right hose that runs under the radiator and down the passenger side of the car) - If you do this, you might get a faint gas smell but the tank should never be pressurized.

 

[raphy rod]

fume dump tube

hello.i read your posting.its the exact same issue.i checked the purge solenoid,it clicks no problem.the restrictor in the t-fitting is unclogged(never was clogged.the only thing i haven't checked is pushing some pressure on the line at the t-fitting going under the radiator to the tank.i have to do that to see if the line is not clogged.if i plug the port up at the intake and disconnect the line at the t-fitting,you say i might get a little smell from fumes.what would it be from? what kind of pump did you use to check the line for plugs going to the tank? thanks for your help

 

[ViPER1313]

You might still smell some fumes if you unhook that line from the T because you would be dumping small amounts of fumes from the (now open) vapor return line under the hood of the car (instead of them being sucked into the motor). It would be a good test thought to see if that line is clogged, because if you drive for a while and still get a huge hiss when you open the gas cap, that line is clogged somewhere.

I used a mityvac brake bleeder pump to put a vacuum on the line to the gas tank. It didn't build much vacuum at all, but it was enough to give a small hiss when I opened the gas cap after pumping it 15 or 20 times. I imagine you could also rig something with a can of compressed air and some tape to see if you can positively pressurize the gas tank through the line. It may or may not work, I am not sure if the line has a 1-way check valve going into the tank that would prevent this from working....

It is also worth checking the line going into the throttle body (upstream of the solenoid) and the throttle body itself to see if either is clogged. You can simply unhook the line while the car is running and see if the throttle body port is sucking air.

Lastly, there might be a short or issue with the electronics going to the purge solenoid itself. You could probably hook up a 12v light bulb to the wires that power it and run it into the cabin to see if it ever lights up when you are driving (should light up during very throttle / highway type conditions).

 

[raphy rod]

hose with fumes

thanks for all the info viper.what about the idea of just extending that dump hose where the fumes come out with a extension that leads out towards the back of the car so its not dumping the fumes under the car?later today i will hit the store for the vacuum pump to see if the hose is clogged.im still working on it.its making me think really hard.thanks again

 

[gmorrell]

That extra hose was a fuel smell TSB fix from Ford, I can't recall the number, but it included a kit with 18 feet of hose and a fist-full of zip ties. The TSB addressed a complaint of smelling raw fuel while the A/C was running, hot weather and low fuel load in the tank made the conditions worse.

The fix was to run a long chunk of hose from the vent on the fuel vapor recovery canister (FVRC) to the rear of the car, which directed the fuel fumes to where they hopefully wouldn't be noticed.

I did a fair amount of research on this problem on many SHO's, including my own, and discovered that one of the solenoid driver arrays inside EEC can fail. This driver is supposed to open the solenoid valve that purges the FVRC, but the driver failure leaves the purge valve permanently closed - the FVRC never gets purged and becomes saturated with fuel, leading to the raw fuel smell.

Ford's fix was, IM(Engineering)O, an enormous kludge, and probably would have gotten them an ass-kicking by the EPA, had they known about it.

I've fixed this problem on many a SHO by pulling out the purge valve and replacing it with a vacuum hose splice.

If the FVRC is badly saturated, it may never purge and will need to be replaced.

 

[raphy rod]

how exactly did you fix it by "pulling out the purge valve and replacing with a vacuum splice".can you please give me instructions for doing this.This sounds like my answer.thanks for your help.

 

[gmorrell]

The canister purge valve is in a hose that runs between the FVRC and the port on the intake. Pull the hoses off the purge valve and connect them back together with a little hose splice or a short piece of 1/4" O.D. Copper tubing. This purges the FVRC any time there is vacuum in the intake, which is most of the time, actually.

It's best to leave the purge valve electrically connected, even tho EEC may not be able to drive the purge valve coil due to a bad Quad Driver Array chip, EEC also has circuitry to sense whether the coil is connected, and if you disconnect it, EEC may throw a code.

 

[raphy rod]

hose fumes

ok.thanks for the response.in the meantime i went and bought my vacuum pump.i disconnected the hose under the radiator at the T-fitting that contains the restrictor.i then connected the vacuum pump to the hose that runs under the radiator to the gas tank.i pumped it 25 times and went to open my gas cap to hear a hissing sound.not a bit of hissing.i then went back under the front and pumped it 50 times and left it connected to the hose.i went back to the gas cap and opened it.not a bit of hissing at all.maybe this line going back to the tank is clogged or something.shouldnt there have been hissing when i unscrewed the gas cap with vacuum applied? whats the next step to fix this problem.i like the idea of bypassing the solenoid and constantly having vacuum from the intake,but what if the vacuum doesnt get to the back from the hose that goes back there?what is my next step to erradicate these fumes that come from the dump hose into the car from under the car by the filter? thanks for your help.

 

[ViPER1313]

After pumping, did the vacuum pump show that there was actually vacuum on the line, or was it still reading atmospheric pressure? If the pump was holding a large vacuum on the line, then it is clogged somewhere - I was never able to pump enough to get the tank under vacuum. Just so long as the pump is not holding a large vacuum on that line, I doubt it is clogged. It will only produce a tiny hiss. Your gas cap might be a bit weak too, preventing it from sealing 100% and creating a vacuum.

Try leaving it disconnected from the T and driving it around for a bit, and see if the tank is still pressurized when you are done. If it's not, then try doing what gmorrell said - you can either bypass the purge solenoid with a 1-way check valve (probably not necessary) or a piece of hose, or just connect a long piece of hose to the vapor return line and route it back behind the car

 

[raphy rod]

update fumes from hose

ok.i was able to do further research.holiday is over.when i pump vacuum in the hose leading to the gas tank from the T with the restrictor in it,it will read constant 0.it showed there was no vacuum.then when i drove around with it disconnected from the t-fitting,i went to the back and there was a swoosh sound when i opened the gas cap.also there was some fumes shooting from the dump hose until i released the pressure from opening the gas cap.since pressure built up,does that mean its plugged up?so now what do you recommend i check or do next.i also bypassed the solenoid making constant vacuum from the intake.fumes still shot out of the dump hose located under the car by the fuel filter.thanks for the help

 

[ViPER1313]

I am really out of ideas right now - what you are experiencing does not make any sense to me. I would check the condition of the lines traveling the right side of the car and make sure that none of them are pinched and / or broken... If you are able to pull vacuum on the vapor recovery line, that should mean that it isn't clogged, and if you leave it completely disconnected from the T or hook it directly to the manifold vacuum the tank should definitely not be pressurized. Try and have someone pump on that line and listen for a leak somewhere on the right side of the car or near the gas tank....

I don't see how a gas cap could be causing your issue (if it is holding positive fume pressure) but at this point the $5 or $10 part might be a good investment just to eliminate the possibility.

Hopefully someone else here can offer up some bright idea. If I have some extra time I might try and load the Ford repair manual onto one of my older Win98 PCs and look at the schematics to see if there is something that I'm missing.

 

[Racer X]

That looks a lot like the vent line disconnected near the fuel filter.

AMIRITE?