Fuel Pump/Check Valve

[SolidState]

I did a breif search, but came up empty handed here..

I am planning on purchasing a Walbro 190lph pump from APE.com and was wondering if the check valve is actually a different part altogether or a part of the pump...

I am planning on using a spark free wheel on my dremmel to create a port under the rear bench, but I really don't want to be tearing this apart more than once...

 

[SHOtimer]

It is a different part..not sure the part # thou. When I put in my Walbro it just came with the pump, the wire plug in, and a screen-filter for the pump and that was all. The Ford replacement somes as one huge assembly that includes the return valve. But to answer your question simply, no it doesn't come with it, it is a part seperate from the pump.
Doug

 

[I'll_SHO_U]

Uh oh. When I changed out my old pump for the Walbro 190lph pump, I put on what I thought was the check valve that came with the pump. At least thats what I thought it was. Makes me wonder what exactly it was?

 

[FAST4DR]

Since I like pictures... Here is one of the pump(sorry for the poor quality, old camera)

There is a check valve in the pump but there is also the orange rubber duck thingy on the return line. It's all the way to the right near the sock.

Will

 

[FAST4DR]

Forgot to mention, the gold bell looking thing, I think, is a "pulse dampener". I did not put it back on with the Walbro pump. I just used the rubber hose that was included with it.

Will

 

[Bizzy]

Ford Part number E53Z9H318-A, Cost me $3.17 each US. I bought 3 of them cause they were a special order.

Don't cut a trapdoor in the body of the car, just drop an empty tank. It's 2 bolts.

Is there any harm in leaving the "pulse dampener" thing in there? I have a 190lph that I'm planning on putting in, but I don't have that little piece of hose. Got my pump nearly new (56 miles) from a car that threw a rod.

 

[ckinart]

Teg,

Just confirming the part number posted by netviper is correct, as I bought one from Ford ($6.80 with tax) when I installed my Walbro 190 lph pump.

I don't want to start an arguement over whether or not it's a good idea to cut a hole in the floor under the backseat to do this job or to drop the tank, but I went through the floor when I replaced my pump, and it went very well. My primary concern was that if the tank strap bolts and clips were rusted out (which most in the rust belt are), then there's a good chance that I could snap one or both of the tank straps as well (they are not cheap to replace). Then there's the concern that if, when you drop the tank, there's been any sort of "bonding" between the tank and the straps over time, you might be looking at a tank leak after you put in your new pump.

I understand cutting a hole in the floor seems barbaric to some, but done with caution, I think it works very well and can avoid a number of other potential problems.

Good luck Teg!

 

[olympic]

I always thought that the gold thing was the check valve. shrug If it's actually a pulse dampner, then where exactly is the check valve,.... inside the pump?

The orange "duck bill" is there to reduce the noise created by the returned fuel spraying back into the tank.

 

[sdpatt]

There is a ball check valve in the discharge port of the fuel pump that maintains the fuel pressure in the fuel line after the engine and pump are shut down. As far as I know, all pumps have this valve. The discharge pressure dampner is a good idea or they would have included it to begin with. It has a purpose so it is best left installed if possible.

The "duck call" maintanis a slight pressure in the fuel return line from the fuel pressure regulator to the fuel tank and prevent the vaporization of the fuel traveling through this line during hot conditions. You hear the results of this vaporization as a bubbling, moaning sound in the fuel tank; usually after an engine restart in hot conditions.

This duck call is not absolutely necessary for the proper operation of the fuel system, but it does reduce the annoyance of the rumbling fuel tank syndrome. However, the discharge check valve in the fuel pump is necessary for quick engine starts as after the pressure is lost inthe fuel line, it may take several seconds of cranking the engine before the pump restores the fuel line pressure enough to allow the engine to start.

 

[SolidState]

hmmm...

well, on a hot restart, the car fights to idle with massive gurgling sounds coming from the fuel pump, however, the fuel pump sounds healthy.

I'll just replace the pump and the little orange part and be done with it...

I do no like the idea of dropping the tank on my northern car unless I plan on replacing the lines and the tank as well...

EDIT: Will; Is that a Walbro pump?

<small>[ October 17, 2003, 10:34 AM: Message edited by: SolidState ]</small>

 

[Bizzy]

I dropped the tank on Chris Olcott's 90' to remove his pump (that how I got mine) and it dropped down with a little shot of pb blaster. I'm gonna be dropping my tank to change the pump, fix my fuel sender issues (I think the sender arm is sticking on the side of the baffle in the tank, or there is a weak connection on the sender wirings. Then I'm coating it with a coat of sprayable zinc to pritect it much like a new tank would come.

I'm thinking that the tank will drop pretty easy. I'd rather keep my passenger cabin intact.

 

[FAST4DR]

SolidState:



EDIT: Will; Is that a Walbro pump?

The picture above is of the stock pump.

Below is the 255lph walbro pump. I am going to take it out and put in a 155 or 190. The 255lph is too much for a N/A car. My fuel pressure is high at idle(40 psi). Either that or I could just buy a blower to go with it.

The 255 pump was a little longer than stock and the gold pulse dampener thing wouldn't fit.