Fuel Injector Differences 3.0L -> 3.2L?

[Chrisssssssss]

Doing the swap, I am having some problems with the fuel injectors. They seem to be having a problem creating a good seal. During my swap of a 3.2 into my 92 MTX, I am using the 3.2 injectors in the 3.2L motor with the 3.0 Fuel rails. Is this correct?
Are there differences in the Fuel rails? Under a digital caliper thingy we measured the diameters of the two, and there are a few differences. Should I have used the 3.2 rails?
Thanks again.

 

[drivinhard]

Where's the bad seal? From the rail to the injector, or is it a vacuum problem from the injector to the head?

Fuel rails are the same between the to.

Did you use new O rings when you installed the 3.2L's? IMHO I would use the 3.0L injectors...

 

[Chrisssssssss]

No, I did not use new o-rings when I swapped them. I am having trouble locating the right size, but I am going to look again tomorrow.

Why would you use the 3.0 injectors? I thought that the 3.2 injectors would be a bit beefier. If you think that the 3.0 ones are better, then I will use them instead.

The leak looks as if it was coming from the rail to the injector area. I will put it back together tomorrow and have another go at it when I put some vaseline on the o-rings and try and see if this helps the seal. Boy I am becoming a real expert at taking this thing apart and putting it back together! Thanks for all the help drivinhard! You are a lifesaver. This beer 's for you!

 

[drivinhard]

The 3.2L's flow a tad more, but the 3.0L's are set to work with the MTX EEC. So if you are using the 3.2L, the computer is probably just going to learn to pull back some injector pulse width to lean it out based on O2 readings, thus no gain. The 3.0L injectors are fine to probably close to 280 or 290 hp.

 

[Chrisssssssss]

Ok, I will put the 3.0 injectors in the rails, and try to find new o-rings. I will see if this solves my problems. I will keep you posted.

 

[Chrisssssssss]

OK, I switched the injectors with the ones from the 3.0 (pink) and it seened to have solved the leaking problem with the fuel spraying. It is dry in the engine, but the car runs fine for about a minute down the road, then it stalls out like it is still not getting any fuel. What the heck could be the problem here? It had no problems with the old engine (at least not with fuel anyways) and I cannot seem to figure it out. You can shut down the car for a second, then be the time that you get to second gear, it will stall.
Help!
BTW, should there be coolant going through the throttle body? I thnk that there is coolant going through some of the lines here and I want to make sure that this is correct.

 

[drivinhard]

You're going to give these 3.2L swaps a bad name wink

 

[Chrisssssssss]

Mark,
While you're drivinhard, I'm tryinhard to figure this freaking thing out. I wanna be drivinhard too!! I hope that I can get this thing worked out soon, or I may have to resort to (GA$P - Take it to the dealer) NO!!!

 

[olympic]

The coolant lines to the TB and IAC valve are suppose to be there. Have you tried pulling the codes?

 

[DeaconBlue]

To answer the first question, as Mark stated, the 3.2L injectors are slightly larger. The 3.0L units will flow enough fuel to support about 270 CHP @ 85% of static rating at the stock fuel pressure of about 39 PSI.

The technical stuff; the 3.0L pintel style injectors statically flow 23.7 lbs/hr at 2.7 BAR or 39.2 PSI. The 3.2L 2-hole disc style injectors statically flow 24.4 lbs/hr at 2.7 BAR or 39.2 PSI.

And yes every time you pull the injectors, you should always replace the o-rings to avoid hard to diagnosis vacuum leaks, that could lead to rough idle and stalling.

 

[Chrisssssssss]

OK, I just tested at with the fuel pressure guage as it was stalling and the pressure slowly drops to 0 and then dies. So, now it looks as if it needs a new pump or something is in the line that is blocking it from letting fuel pass (blockage in the line or the pickup). NOw assuming that it is either or, how easy would it be replace a fuel pump? Or how easy would it be to clean blockage in the pickup? You can feel the lines pulsate as the car is running and about to die. Could it be the pump relay? Is there any way to test these things?

At least I narrowed it down to the fuel system, with dying out fuel pressure.

 

[SHOTIME]

Vaccum controls the fuel Pressure regulator, You have vaccum?

 

[185K89SHO]

No vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator would cause high fuel pressure.
John

 

[bigpappy]

I can only tell you one thing about replacing the fuel pump. If you don't have a trap door under your backseat, you're going to have to lower your tank to get to the pump. Procedurally, it's a very simple job, but getting to the pump is no fun at all. I'd recommend having as little fuel in the tank as possible, and have a buddy standing by to help you put the tank back after you put it in.
Surf this site! One of the guys has even got pictures to help you out!
My guess is that it's NOT your pump. The last two times my pumps went out, the engine would stall, and then I could restart it. After a few days, it would become harder and harder to start. Also, the lower I went in my fuel tank, the more often the engine would stall.( the fuel level wasn't high enough to keep the pump cool)

Sorry I can't help more.
Johnny