Frozen Caliper

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Nick's SHO

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i just bought a 95 white mtx and the rear left caliper sticks. So ive been driving around for a good three weeks with my pads grinding agaisnt my rotor. Its been braking fine until today. i go to hit the brakes today and the pedal goes right to the floor, it slows the car down, just really slowly.Then later on that day the brakes felt fine, but as i would come to a complete stop, the brake pedal would show some resistance and push right back up. I was wondering if that one frozen caliper can affect the whole braking system or i screwed something else up in the master cylinder or something, idk. Please someone tell me what the **** is wrong with the brakes.
 

Minnesho

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take them apart and grease up the sliders, make sure they are moving properly then re assemble
 

khanartist

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Minnesho said:
take them apart and grease up the sliders, make sure they are moving properly then re assemble

:thumb: Exactly as above. Buff the pins with emerycloth and make sure the boots are in good condition.
 

qiksho

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Also check to make sure that the lever arm (for lack of a better description) that the ebrake cable attaches to moves how it should. I have seen two calipers now that the seal for this pin/lever arm was shot and crudded up bad enough for the ebrake not to release once pressed. Causing the calipers to get "stuck" and heat the **** outta everything.

But by far the most common problem is the stuck slider pins. Another thing is collapsed rear hoses. For the cost I would just plain buy new hoses if you think there is a possibility they have a bad spot.

Good luck....this has been a major issue with all 4 of the SHO's I have owned in the upper midwest :corn: In fact...it has been the biggest issue.... :cheers:
 

MorpheusGPR

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I have a rear brake that will not close...we get fluid to the hard line but not the rubber. I bought a new line from ford with the fittings for around 40 bucks...just need to get it installed.
 

Nick's SHO

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yea the caliper bracket will not move, causing the pad to get stuck agaisnt the rotor and is has caused severe damage to my pads, rotor, and paint job. From all this the brackets need to be replaced, so does the rotors, pads, and calipers, me and my friend are doin all this real soon hoping this will resolve the brake problems ive been having. Thanks ne way.
 

Sh03d

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If the caliper bracket has trouble moving. Could it release after braking in a violent jolt? Say when the wheel starts moving again. Or could it be rusted inside. Also how do I get the sliders out of the bracket? Just pull?
 

qiksho

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Nick's SHO said:
yea the caliper bracket will not move, causing the pad to get stuck agaisnt the rotor and is has caused severe damage to my pads, rotor, and paint job. From all this the brackets need to be replaced, so does the rotors, pads, and calipers, me and my friend are doin all this real soon hoping this will resolve the brake problems ive been having. Thanks ne way.

If you got the caliper that hot you will have to replace the rubber brake hose also....don't ask me how I know....

Or you will wreck another set of pads and warp another rotor....... :bonk:
 

pete315

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had a big problem with right rear brake last night. was in stop and go traffic. I could feel the rear brakes start to drag the longer I drove. when I arrived it was almost like the E brake was on. I got out of car and saw the right rear rotor glowing orange ( not good). on the way home with no traffic, brakes did not drag and got no glowing.My rotor and brake pads are toast. I'm assuming the caliper is shot cause it gets stuck when heated up. I'm going to change both rear calipers and hoses. I never did calipers on a SHO. is there any thing I need to know? is the E brake attached to the caliper? should I do the wheel bearings? can I do wheel bearings or do they need to be pressed in like the front ones. any help appreciated.
 

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